Cat Forum / General Topics / June 2004
another flea delemma...
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e - 28 May 2004 22:58 GMT Hi all..
I've been lurking for a while, and thought I might ask for your advice...
The deal: I have a really long haired Siamese (mix) cat. His hair is between 3 and 4 inches long everywhere, and super fine and cottony. I moved recently, and the previous tenants had several cats and dogs. So... despite that he's an indoor cat, he has come down with a bad case of fleas.
I thought it wouldn't be an impossible task to eradicate the fleas, given all of the products out there, but I'm encountering some problems. [Especially the fact that I have an uber-strong histamine response to any bug bites, and have always been a bug magnet. I'm covered in like 30+ inch-or-so-in-diameter itchy, itchy, itchy, painful flea bites. I wore stockings and a tight shirt to bed one night, and so the fleas just decided to attack my neck-- the only exposed part of my body. This was confusing though, since I thought that as long as there is a cat around, the fleas would rather bite him then me... ]
But anyway, I used Frontline Plus on the cat a few weeks ago. Strangely enough, it didn't seem to work. The fleas weren't dying. Last week I took him to the vet, who said that if too much of the frontline got in his hair, rather than distributed across his skin, then it is the case that the frontline wouldn't work optimally. I figured I applied it wrong.
So, the vet applied Advantage to the cat. I hoped that he would have better flea product application skills, so more of the product would end up on the cat's skin than his hair. But, the Advantage didn't seem to work either. I noticed that every time the cat would jump off of the couch, he would leave two or three alive-and-well fleas behind. Weirdly, they didn't appear to be incredibly lively and jumpy. My theory is that they're getting enough of the pesticide to become weak enough to fall off the cat, but not enough to kill them. This is almost more frustrating, since without their host the errant fleas then wander over to me and start attacking. After I discovered this, and didn't let the cat in the bed with me, which seemed to result in fewer bites for me. I mean, it only takes one flea in my bed to bite me through out the night.
I decided to give the cat Program, which I'm optimistic about. But, I don't know what to do about the spot treatments not working. I figure they're not working because they cover his hair rather than his skin (what with the capillary action and the fact that his hair has infinately more surface area than his skin). Or maybe they're not working because the fleas don't spend as much time on his skin since he has so much hair to hide in. I don't know. But, I need a solution. From the first time I applied the stuff to the cat, I did wonder whether his hair length would preclude it from working.. and it seems like it does.
I was so excited to use the Program and a spot treatment since according to some people, these products worked so well that they didn't need to treat the carpets or bomb the house. But, I think am going to buy a carpet spray of some kind tonight, since the stuff isn't working. :(
So, I think I might have the cat shaved for the summer. (Or given a "lion cut" as this is much cuter). This will result in the spot treatments actually working like they're supposed to. But, it seems like the fleas won't *be able* to live on the cat as readily since they won't have any hair to cling to... sort of like how Sphinx cats don't really get fleas. (Or do they?) This seems bad since they'll spend less time on him, and more time on me and the carpet, which isn't fun for me, but could potentially also result in the fleas' not getting enough of the pesticide. (Or maybe not?) If he does get a "lion cut", will the fleas just run to where there is fur and potentially less pesticide? Aurghh. Any thoughts or suggestions about this? Any other ideas?
A apologize for the super long post... I've been needing to vent :) Thanks for reading my flea saga...
-e
MaryL - 28 May 2004 23:43 GMT > Hi all.. > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > -e There will be others on this group who can give you more detailed information. However, this much seems obvious to me: (1) There is obviously such a severe flea infestatin in the house that it may take some time to eradicate. I have used Advantage with great success, but I have not had to deal with the situation you describe. However, I think you should pick one product and stick with it for awhile. (2) You need to treat the premises -- vigorously, in this case -- and not just the cat. You will need to treat the entire area -- cat's bedding, carpeting, beds, upholstery, etc. Dump the vacuum bag or cannister immediately after vacuuming, and take the contents *outdoors.* Cut up a flea collar. *Do not* use it on the cat because you should not use flea collars and the other products you described. However, vacuum up a few small pieces of the flea collar both before vacuuming and after cleaning the vacuum. That should help to eradicate any fleas that may be in the vacuum cleaner. (3) Treat *outside* around the perimeter of the house -- and as far out into the yard as possible -- in case some of your problem is caused by bring new critters into the house on your clothing. It also sounds like you need to spend some time using a flea comb -- and, yes, a lion cut might help but it certainly will not be a cureall.
Good luck!
MaryL
Al B - 29 May 2004 01:16 GMT What you have to do is rid the house and your cats of the fleas at the same time. See your vet about the cats they have injections and other treatments that are more effective than over the counter products. There is a product that you have use on your house that is actually a poison gas bomb. You close up your house and open the can of gas then leave for several hours. You have to repeat the process again 2 or 3 days later because the gas does not kill the larvae that the previuosly living fleas have laid. Don't forget to launder all of your clothing and bedding and cover food and dishes.
It's been several years since I've had to deal with this problem and maybe there are better ways to deal with it now.
Ashley - 29 May 2004 01:30 GMT > What you have to do is rid the house and your cats of the fleas at the same > time. See your vet about the cats they have injections and other treatments [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > forget to launder all of your clothing and bedding and cover food and > dishes. You can get flea bombs that guarantee to leave your place flea-free for the next 12 months. And they work. I had a problem about 18 months ago and I flea bombed the entire house. Haven't had any problems since.
Al B - 29 May 2004 03:06 GMT "> You can get flea bombs that guarantee to leave your place flea-free for the
> next 12 months. And they work. I had a problem about 18 months ago and I > flea bombed the entire house. Haven't had any problems since. That is the only way to really get rid of them. Just treating your pet is useless unless you get them out of the house, they thrive in carpets.
MaryL - 29 May 2004 04:53 GMT > > What you have to do is rid the house and your cats of the fleas at the > same [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > next 12 months. And they work. I had a problem about 18 months ago and I > flea bombed the entire house. Haven't had any problems since. WARNING!! Flea bombs can be very effective. However, *read the instructions carefully* if you have gas in your house. Many of the insect bombs warn that all pilot lights (central heat, oven, hot water heater, gas burning logs in fireplace, etc.) must be turned *off* before using the insect cannisters. If you do use some, look for the kind that are also designed to kill the eggs.
The whole treatment may need to be repeated several times if you have a severe infestation. My vet once described flea eggs as "time release" devices because they hatch over a long period of time. He said some may take more than a year to hatch. That is one reason why it is so important to vacuum "every little nook and cranny."
MaryL
Ashley - 29 May 2004 06:23 GMT > WARNING!! Flea bombs can be very effective. However, *read the > instructions carefully* if you have gas in your house. Many of the insect > bombs warn that all pilot lights (central heat, oven, hot water heater, gas > burning logs in fireplace, etc.) must be turned *off* before using the > insect cannisters. If you do use some, look for the kind that are also > designed to kill the eggs. Indeed. As with using any dangerous chemicals, read the instructions several times and make sure you understand them fully and do everything they instruct.
And also agree about the advice to make sure you know what you're buying. The reason I chose the one I did was that it specifically stated it would kill eggs and keep the whole place flea-free for 12 months. I also used three, as this is a large house and I wanted to make sure I got everything.
Of course, during all this, if you have indoor cats, you will have to find somewhere else for them (and you) to be. And if you're in an apartment with limited ventilation and can't open windows and doors on both sides to ensure you have at least a couple of hours of good through ventilation before you bring the cats back, you might be best to find them somewhere to be overnight. The chemicals are toxic.
Laura R. - 29 May 2004 15:28 GMT circa 28 May 2004 14:58:13 -0700, in rec.pets.cats, e (bpe999999 @yahoo.com) said,
> Hi all.. > [quoted text clipped - 73 lines] > > -e A couple of things- first, unless you treat your home as well as your cat, and if you have carpeting and upholstered furniture, you're probably not going to eradicate the problem.
Second, have you asked your veterinarian about possibly bringing in your cat for a flea bath? It seems a lot safer than putting everything on the market on her to try to get spot treatments to work.
Laura
 Signature I am Dyslexia of Borg, Your a.s will be laminated.
MaryL - 29 May 2004 17:51 GMT > Hi all.. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > -e This just occurred to me: You said that you moved recently, and you mention that the previous tenants had several cats and dogs. Are you renting? If so, I think the landlord would have an obligation to bring in a professional exterminator (but have a *very* serious conversation with the exterminator, and make sure that the environment will be safe for you and your cat afterward). If you purchased the home, then I would check with the realtor because the previous owners may have a similar obligation (or, at least, an obligation to reimburse you for the expenses incurred). In fact, it might be better -- in either set of circumstances -- for you to make arrangements to select the exterminator yourself so that you can have more control over any toxic chemicals that be used. Even if you have to do it yourself, it is essential for the entire house to be thoroughly cleaned and action taken to kill prevent flea eggs from hatching.
MaryL
e - 04 Jun 2004 20:02 GMT Hi all..
Thanks for all of the advice!
I bought some carpet spray, which seems like it might be helping a little bit. I can't really bomb the house because we have a large saltwater aquarium, and apparently flea bombs can kill fish.
What I plan to do, is have the cat shaved or trimmed because it seems like that's the only way for Advantage or Frontline to work; otherwise, it just gets in his long hair (also, he refuses to be brushed and has some matting on his belly, which is bad/uncomfortable for him.)
What I'm trying to figure out, and hopefully some of you will have suggestions, is how short his hair should be. My paranoia is that, if his hair is shaved off completely (think Sphynx), then with no hair to hold onto, the fleas won't be able to stay on him long enough for the Advantage to work, or they'll just jump back into the carpet and bite me :)
Totally shaven? Leave an inch? Any thoughts? Also, what about a 'lion cut' rather than completely shaven? Will the fleas just flock to the still-hairy parts, like his head, tail, and paws? Would that even matter?
I figure I'll ask the groomer about these things, but I's appreciate any advice you guys can offer. Thanks!
Obsessive and flea-bitten :) , -e
Ashley - 04 Jun 2004 23:20 GMT > Hi all.. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > little bit. I can't really bomb the house because we have a large > saltwater aquarium, and apparently flea bombs can kill fish. Move it for a day, or ensure it is entirely sealed. You're not going to get rid of fleas in the house unless you treat the house. Whatever else you do will be ineffective.
Laura R. - 05 Jun 2004 03:12 GMT circa Sat, 5 Jun 2004 10:20:46 +1200, in rec.pets.cats, Ashley (ashleyjane@XXXXXxtra.co.nz) said,
> > Hi all.. > > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > rid of fleas in the house unless you treat the house. Whatever else you do > will be ineffective. http://tinyurl.com/32rgr
Laura
 Signature I am Dyslexia of Borg, Your a.s will be laminated.
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