Subject: Cat food labels

Dry Matter Value Forumula
Look at the "Guaranteed Analysis" on a label
Subtract the moisture percentage from 100
Divide the resulting figure into the crude protein figure (disregard decimals when
dividing)
The result will be a close approximation of protein by dry matter value

(You can use the same formula to calculate the percentage of fat or fiber by dry matter
value.)

Example:

Here are figures from three different cat foods I happened to have on hand. They are from
three different manufacturers, which shall remain anonymous for purpose of this exercise.

Brand A Premium Canned Food: Protein, 8.5% | Moisture, 78%
Brand B Premium Dry Food: Protein, 32% | Moisture, 10%
Brand C "Supermarket Brand" Canned Food: Protein, 10% | Moisture: 78%

Brand A: Using the formula above, and subtracting the moisture from 100%, we divide the
remainder, 22 into the 8.5 protein content for a result of 38.5% protein by dry matter.

Brand B: 100 minus 10 equals 90, divided into 32 gives us 35.5%.

Brand C: 100 minus 78 equals 22 divided into 10 for 45%.

You can see in the example given that the two canned food brands contain more dry matter
protein content than Brand B, a dry food, which at first glance seems to contain far more
protein. In fact, by this test alone, one might think that Brand C (the "supermarket"
brand) is superior for protein content.

Not so fast!

Actually, the first two listed ingredients on Brand C's label are "meat by-products," and
"poultry by-products," which were listed under "What to Avoid" in the first part of this
series. The protein quality of this "supermarket" brand simply does not make the cut.

The 95%, 25%, 3% Rules

AAFCO has provided certain other rules for "truth in advertising" in cat foods. Don't let
those fancy designations such as "gourmet" or "feast" slip one past you. With these rules
you'll know at least the minimum your cat is getting of the advertised ingredient.
Here are the rules:
The 95% Rule
A cat food may not be labeled simply "Chicken for Cats," or "Chicken Cat Food," unless it
contains 95% or more chicken by total weight of the product.
The 25% Rule
Foods labeled "Chicken Entre," "Chicken Dinner," "Chicken Feast," or the like, must
contain 25% to 95% chicken. Combinations, such as "Chicken and Beef Dinner" must contain a
total of 25% to 95% of the combined meats, listed in order of quantity, and the second
meat listed must comprise at least 3% of the total weight. (Imagine ordering a "steak and
lobster" dinner and finding the "lobster" will barely fill a fork.)
The 3% Rule
A food labelled "Kitty Stew with Chicken" must contain 3% or more chicken. ("With" is the
optimum word here.)
"Flavor"
Barely worth mentioning here, but if you see something similar to "chicken flavored," be
assured that the product is unlikely to contain any chicken at all, as long as there is a
"sufficiently detectable" amount of chicken flavor. Since these "flavors" may be the
result of digests or by-products of the named animal, I'd avoid these at all costs.

Subject: Ash
 
 
What They Are Not Telling Us About Cat Food
(Or What's the FUS About Ash?)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
That tiny print in the fold of a bag of cat food is supposed to tell
us everything we need to know about whether the contents will keep our
beloved tabby in the pink, or corrode his kidneys. Yet most brands
obscure the information we need by providing too much information, and
leaving out what we are really looking for.
The other day I read about a dozen bags in the grocery store. Only one
mentioned ash content (it was much too high), and the one that claimed
to be good for a cat's urinary tract couldn't explain why it actually
is (if it is). If you have ever dealt with a cat's failing kidneys you
know that you want to do whatever you can from the first day you bring
that cute kitten into your home to keep those innards healthy, and all
the plumbing working.
 
So why can't they just have a urinary tract rating. A 1 would be best
for cats, especially male cats who are prone to developing urinary
problems. A 10 would be really really bad for them (but they like it
the best, kind of like Doritos).
 
The Real Deal:
Most cats don't even get FUS/FLUTD (feline urologic syndrome/feline
lower urinary tract disease), but why not be safe now and not sorry
later? Get good quality cat foods for life and you are likely to have
a healthy cat.
 
A good low-ash cat food should not contain more than 6% ash (based on
100% dry weight). Magnesium in a low-ash cat food should be no more
than 0.1% and no less than .05%. Try to avoid by-products. Get real
chicken, beef, lamb etc. Some say fish is suspect relative to
FUS/FLUTD.
 
If the bag doesn't tell the ash or magnesium content or other
information you are looking for, call the company or get another
brand.

Thanks. Just to clarify, is "meat products" meant to include "meat
byproducts"?

This is brilliant. Can I get away with putting all of them one big
plate, or would their smells get intermingled and they must be
well-separated from each other, in different dishes, etc.?

I know what you mean, but as in humans, certain ill-effects could be
gradual and not o obvious. I think it is not a bad idea to start with
some care rather than discover some avoidable bad news later.

My guess is once I have factored in nutrition quality, price, and my
cat's taste, only a few choices will be left.