Frequent claw clipping, perhaps with a bit of dressing with an emery
board or file after clipping.  Unfortunately, some cats will not put
up with this and they have to be restrained by at least one extra
person or sedated.

My Millie is that way, and I'm trying to train her to sharpen her
claws on emery cloth I taped to the table leg she is in the process of
reducing to sawdust.

--
T.E.D. (tdavis@gearbox.maem.umr.edu)

twiggystoy@aol.com  (Corduroy)
writes

I understand that there's a new baby on the way. Congrats!  I also read that
there's a problem w/the rabbits and the cat.  Since declawing is amputation,
it's not the answer.  First, the claws should be trimmed.  Have the vet
demonstrate.  Also, you can consult a cat behaviorist for alternatives.  A
feline behaviorist is a specialist (usually a vet or someone w/experience and
education in cat behavior/psychology). You can learn how to teach your cat that
scratching isn't acceptable.

I have heard that declawing can make them even more aggressive, because
they have lost one of their natural defenses. More than once I've heard
that cats have become aggressive biters in its place.

Do you have any other cats? Maybe if she had a friend to play with and
chase (hopefully they would take turns chasing each other...) -- it
would relieve some of her energy.

Good luck,

Rhonda

Since you are an AOL member you should  go to the AOL cat message boards and
look under cat health and read the declawing alternatives discussions.
In my opinion declawing is always wrong. It can cause severe health and
behaverial problebms.
Cats by their very nature will chase bunnies but since your cat has not harmed
them she considers them part of the family and is just playing.
Is she biting and scratching during rough play or is she scratching furniture?
If furniture you could put a slipcover over it and do more scratching post
training?
She will not harm a new baby if you introduce the baby to her. But you should
not leave her and the baby together unsupervised.
Nails can be trimmed so they have no sharp points and from what I have read
soft paws do work.
Sydney will thank you for letting her keep her claws as I know you will since
you are here looking for alternatives.

Ed

Hi,

This might help somewhat, it's a checklist (as noted) of what I feel you
need to do to make things run smoother what with the new baby and
existing pets. I'm sure some if not all of the points are dead-obvious,
but hopefully you find it helpful.

pat

CHECKLIST:

PART I - Before Baby Arrives

Purchases:
- Advantage (or similar) flea drops, *not* a flea-collar (ask your vet)
- New scratching post
- Organic petsmell deodorizer (such as Atmosklear mentioned in another
thread)
- Grooming/flea combs/brushes
- 6 months worth of (non-perishable) petfoods
- 6 months worth of kitty-litter/rabbitstuff
- nightlights

Appointments:
- to the vet with all pets for checkups/shots
- to the groomer (find one) for grooming and instructions on how to keep
your pets from shedding

Environment:
- Scope out all the places where you will be putting the crib/babychair
-- Remove anything that could be knocked over into the crib/chair from
shelves or tables
-- forget the "Baby's Educational Mobile above the crib" idea
- Scope out all the places/paths where you will be carrying the child
-- Reemplace all pet areas (foodbowls, litter trays, scratching posts,
catbeds) well away from these paths... consider tails as well
-- Ensure that paths are well lit by nightlights

Routines:
- learn to groom the cat to keep the fur from flying
- develop a strict timely routine of feeding/watering
- """"" changing the litter

PART II - After the Baby Arrives

Routines:
- Do not allow the cat on the changing-table
- Don't lock the cat in the room with the baby (this is for the cat's
sanity)
- At night (when you're sleeping) lock the cat *out* of the room with
the baby (this is for your sanity)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Of course you might be asking yourself "Why should I do all this? I've
got a baby on the way", however most of the advice given is based on the
"ounce of prevention" theory, especially during the first half year or
so of your child's life where you will be run ragged.

You need to get your pets checked over thoroughly at the vets to ensure
they're okay and shots to make sure they stay that way. If you currently
need flea preventative measures, the drops are easily as effective as a
collar and you're child won't be able to ingest insecticide.

The stop at a professional groomers is mostly to learn the best way to
keep your cat from shedding along with the brush/comb purchases. The
deodorizer is insurance in case kitty gets too stressed out and starts
peeing in inappropriate places. But we're trying to prevent that, so
we're starting a constant, predictable routine of watering, feeding,
litter-changing and grooming to make sure she (and you) aren't stressed out.

The "buy half a years worth of pet supplies" point is worth it just for
the look on the clerk's face when you say "it's because a baby's on the
way", however neither you nor your pet needs the easily-avoided stress
of running out of food or litter.

Your cat is a cat, and at 2am when you're wandering around the house in
darkness after being awake for 48 hours, and cradling a baby that just
fell asleep, her tail is gonna be right where you step unless you can
see where you're going at all times; thus the nightlights. And even if
you don't step on her, treading on a dish of catfood in your bare feet
isn't high up on the list of pleasurable experiences. Don't move it out
of the room, just into a corner or something, and let her get used to
the change, now, instead of after mommy comes home with the new
bundle-of-joy.

pat

What's the connection?

Which are caused by what? And what is she biting and scratching?

A scratching post is *not* a toy.

What behaviour?

You have a cat and you have bunnies... what part of that don't you
understand?

Well, declawing certainly is long-term; let's see...

a) the cat's "knuckles" are removed as well as the claws... yup, that's
long term alright.

b) the cat will have balance problems due to the above... some cats
learn to rebalance so that might not be long-term.

c) most cats develop behavioural problems...

d) most cats start biting more and harder... might even leave some
long-term scars.

Look, if you're seriously thinking about getting the cat declawed then
seriously think about giving her to a competent owner, because that's
just abuse. Declawing is illegal in most civilized nations, and fast
becoming so in the rest. Most vets won't and I wouldn't trust the ones
that would.

Heard of them... if I had an authentic Louis XIV living-room set and
million-dollar hanging rugs I might consider it, but as it is I have 5
cats who share a single scratching post and don't scratch anything else
(unless held against their will and provoked).

Enough for what? You haven't mentioned any problems yet:

The cat chases rabbits... well, duh, it's a cat (and my bets are the
rabbits don't mind; I've seen a cat and a rabbit playing tag); not
curable by declawing (unless the cat gets so depressed it doesn't want
to play).

Your wife/SO is pregnant... not the cat's fault and also not cureable by
declawing.

And your cat has "very stinky moments"... what, like kitty PMS or
something where she comes tearing out of the kitchen, severs your major
arteries and eats your left foot?

pat

cat scratching tips

1. Hopefully he likes catnip. If so, rub it all over the scratching post. If he
still doesn't use it, take his little paws and scratch the post with them and
tell him he's a good kitty. Scratch the post yourself in front of him. Remember
to associate positive things with acceptable clawing and negative things with
unacceptable clawing like the word "no."

2. Try a scratching mat. Some prefer horizontal over vetical surfaces.

3. Try sisal, rug, cardboard, fabric... covered trees or mat. Some even like
plain wood. You can get cheap thin door mats and staple gun them to a cat tree.
Use canvas if he really likes fabric. Be sure the stapes go vertical like this
"|" and not horizontal like this "--" so they don't get their claws stuck in
there.

4. Put double sided tape where he likes to scratch. They won't like the
stickiness. They may then scratch a few inches over from the tape so be
prepared to add more. Keep no. 5 in mind when using the tape.

5. Don't let him in that room where he scratches when you're not around. When
you're around stand gaurd with a squirt gun and squirt him from a distance when
he scratches the furniture. If he's real persistent, put a little bit of
vinegar in the squirt gun. Don't get him in the face. You can also yell "NO!"
when he scratches there. I also like to take him away from that area instantly
and take him to the scratchy tree, hold his paws and help him scratch while
praising him. Make it a fun experience, don't hold him forcefully or he'll fear
the kitty tree. Make everything associated with the kitty tree positive. I
sometimes will put a scratchy tree close to the furniture they are clawing so
they have a nearby alternative.

6. Put vinegar where he scratches. They don't like the smell.

7. Try some of that "cat away" spray.

8. Try a "scat mat" where he is scratching.

9. Get rid of fabric furniture with vertical fabric sides. Get THICK baggy
distressed leather or wood sofa and chairs.

10. Try soft paws. http://www.softpaws.com/

11. Try trimming his claws every ten days. Some trim once a week.

12. Whenever you see him clawing appropriately, praise and reward him lavishly.
Continue to praise him forever or he may get lazy.

13. Try Feliway to calm them down, found in most pet stores.

14. Make sure your cat tree is tall and heavy enough. Big kitties will topple a
small light one with a small base then they may fear the tree. I put weights on
the bottom of mine. I get the big ones. I also have a multi-tier cat tree they
like to rip up.

15. Try this product, a cat tree that attaches to the side of your couch.
http://www.birminghamind.com/Scratchaway/index.html

16. Try some "no mark" spray. It may keep them from spraying and/or scratching.

17. Put upside down floor runners pointy side up near where he is scratching.
This way he won't be able to stand close enough to scratch because it will be
uncomfortable on his feet.

18. Try an angled scratchy post or a scratchy teepee. Some prefer clawing at an
angle.

if you do use a clippper be careful no to cut the vain. In other words
not too much, clip just the points, thanks