Cat Forum / Health and Behavior / November 2003
Some questions about flea infestation
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Suki - 24 Sep 2003 02:25 GMT We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the following questions so we can combat the problem?:
1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die out on their own.
2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
Thanks in advance.
Leigh Menconi - 24 Sep 2003 02:42 GMT > We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the > following questions so we can combat the problem?: [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die > out on their own. AFAIK, fleas are fleas. The ones that rode in on my brother's dog may have preferred dog blood, but they feasted on me nonethless.
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans? Not that I know of but I have heard that it's very bad for cats.
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die? Don't know on this one. I can recommend that you repeat whatever you do about 2 1/2 weeks later because the flea life-cycle is about 3 weeks. Then you'll catch the ones that hatched after the first application but before they reproduce. We always had much better luck with the chemicals from the vets office than anything else.
Leigh in raLeigh
> Thanks in advance. SlinkyToy - 24 Sep 2003 05:14 GMT I once had horrible fleas. I got some basic flea powder at the store and dosed all the rugs. I took bedding to the laundry and ran it through boil/bake. Clothing was bagged for 2 weeks and I only wore things that could be boiled and baked. I vacuumed twice a day and put snipped-up flea collars in the vacuum bags, which I burned on a daily basis.
At the end of two weeks I was flea-free. Had to treat the cats for tapeworm subsequently...
Pete - 24 Sep 2003 05:19 GMT Hi Suki,
There are many types of fleas, Non of them inhabit man exclusively. Flea bodies are designed to live on a particular host animal by grabbing onto the fur. Fleas will bite people ( as you have already experenced) but will not live on a person. Fleas have four stages of develpoment. Egg, larve, Pupa, and adult. When a pupa hatches it will feed on any warm blooded animal( you and me included.)
Boric acid is a stomach poison that works by being ingested. If you ingest enough of it you will be sick. Some people think that its dessicant qualities effect flea development but it is a more common theroy that flea larva eat the boric acid and it kills them.
The boric acid can attack an adult fleas outer cutical and kill it but it is not the most efficent method of control.
If you have a pet, most of the spot on treatments can solve your problem. fleas like to stay ont he host so by treating the animal you can eventually control all of the fleas. Without an animal your best recoures is to use a product that attacks as many stages of flea development as possible. Vaccum regularly, find a product to apply directly to your homes floor that is both an adluticide and has a growth inhibiting hormone to control further development.
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the > following questions so we can combat the problem?: [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Thanks in advance. Lar - 24 Sep 2003 06:20 GMT :) 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog :) fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this :) true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since :) we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die :) out on their own. There is a Human flea that usually are spread by working with pigs. I believe it is more of an European/African issue than American. Cat/dog fleas don't need specific type of blood but have just developed as mentioned to specific furs and body temp of host animals. Cat fleas (I believe dog fleas too) will have a "moustache" of bristles where the Human flea will just have a few. Your flea problem may be from wild animals living under your home or in the attic or walls.
:) :) 2. Is Borax toxic to humans? As with anything else it can be and can also cause respiration problems.
:) :) 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die? I believe the Borax treatment, due to its particle size will mainly effect the larvae stage where as boric acid designed for carpet treatments will have smaller particles that the biting adult will ingest and die from also. Borate treatments will be a slower mode maybe taking several days to see results, but can work.
 Signature http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg
Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!
PawsForThought - 24 Sep 2003 18:50 GMT >From: Lar larflu@comcastBUGS.net
>I believe the Borax treatment, due to its particle size >will mainly effect the larvae stage where as boric acid >designed for carpet treatments will have smaller >particles that the biting adult will ingest and die from >also. Borate treatments will be a slower mode maybe >taking several days to see results, but can work. What about diatomaceous earth (food grade) for fleas? I know it's supposed to work for insect control:
http://www.custommilling.com/Diatomaceous%20Earth.htm
http://www.usaemergencysupply.com/faq/diatomaceousearth.html
http://www.groworganic.com/a/item_PMB105_DiatomaceousEarth50LbBag.html
Lauren ________ See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm
Ned Flanders - 24 Sep 2003 08:04 GMT > We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the > following questions so we can combat the problem?: [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Thanks in advance. Ingesting borax can cause irritability, anemia, skin inflammation and lesions, hair loss, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, and even death. Potentially lethal doses from borax ingestion are one teaspoon for infants, two for children, and five for adults. The most significant toxicity concerns for borax center around ingestion poisoning and its reproductive toxicity through ingestion. While borax has not been shown to cause cancer or mutations, some animal studies have prompted concerns that it may be a human reproductive toxin, and the California EPA is currently evaluating it for possible consideration as a reproductive toxin under Proposition 65. Borax's conversion to boric acid in water prompts concerns for dermal absorption through broken skin, especially among sensitive infants and children.
Cheers,
Ned
smendrick - 24 Sep 2003 16:39 GMT It's likely that the flea eggs were left in the house by previous inhabitants with pets. I have heard that the eggs can last for a couple of years undisturbed. Frequent vacuuming will help to hatch the existing flea eggs.
I believe the company "flea busters" uses boric acid in it's home flea treatments. You can use the same methodology at home by sprinkling the powder onto carpeted areas, then beat it into the fibers with a broom. Frequent, regular vacuuming will help in alleviating the problem.
Lar - 24 Sep 2003 19:41 GMT In article <893f05f3.0309240739.6288a9b9 @posting.google.com>, smendrick66@yahoo.com says...
:) I have heard that the eggs can last for a :) couple of years undisturbed. Frequent vacuuming will help to hatch :) the existing flea eggs. :) :) You're thinking of the pupa stage.
 Signature http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg
Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!
Meghan Noecker - 25 Sep 2003 10:12 GMT >I believe the company "flea busters" uses boric acid in it's home flea >treatments. You can use the same methodology at home by sprinkling >the powder onto carpeted areas, then beat it into the fibers with a >broom. Frequent, regular vacuuming will help in alleviating the >problem. Yes. We used to have a horrible problem years ago, and hired Flea Busters. They guaranteed their work for a year, and it lasted in our house for 5 years. By that time, we learned we could do it ourselves with Borax. We have to do it more often (3-4 times a year) since we can't pound it into the rug so deeply. But it works great. I haven't seen any evidence of fleas for about 2 years now. And the last time was because we let it go 8 months before doing the borax again. We can do the whole house with only half a box, so it is inexpensive, and fairly easy. Non toxic to the animals. Only kills small bugs like fleas. Basically, it absorbs moisture, so they dry out and die.
If you currently have a flea problem, make sure you hit all the pet areas very well, basically anywhere they sleep. If the problem is bad, it takes about a week to get rid of them. If you have been doing it and forgot to keep up, and you see a little scratching or the first hints of fleas, you can do the borax and have them gone in 1-2 days.
If the animals are really having trouble, go ahead and use the advantage type products right away. It works faster, and will relieve the problem. We have two cats that are allergic to flea bites, so when we forgot to do the borax and the fleas came back, we treated them with advantage to give them fast relief. We don't use it on a regular basis though since it doesn't treat the environment and gets very expensive with 3 dogs and 4 cats. The borax works great without any medication or toxins.
Meghan & the Zoo Crew Equine and Pet Photography Friesians in the Northwest http://www.zoocrewphoto.com
Philip ? - 26 Sep 2003 01:25 GMT >> I believe the company "flea busters" uses boric acid in it's home >> flea treatments. You can use the same methodology at home by [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > Friesians in the Northwest > http://www.zoocrewphoto.com But ... but ... but ... you're killing innocent widda bugs!!! You're committing atrocities on BILLIONS of innocents! You MURDERER! You beast! Bugs have Rights too!
(laughing so hard I started coughing!) --
~~Philip
"Never let school interfere with your education - Mark Twain"
Bill - 24 Sep 2003 17:07 GMT >"Suki" <sukibot8@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:vn1sk8m4hnk0c1@corp.supernews.com...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the > following questions so we can combat the problem?: [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Thanks in advance. I had this same problem that I solved by calling a professional exterminator. Problem solved.
As another poster pointed out, your problem may be caused by wild animals that have made a home with you. Rats or mice are common, and they have fleas too. This needs to be checked.
It would probably help to put a flea collar in the vacuum cleaner bag as well, but this alone won't solve the problem. Even if no animals are present, the flea eggs will continue to hatch in waves over time. Professional exterminators know how to deal with this.
Bill
Ned Flanders - 25 Sep 2003 05:00 GMT > We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the > following questions so we can combat the problem?: [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Thanks in advance. Try this, just as messy, but safer with dust masks:
Diatomaceous earth is a mined mineral product. It is the fossilized remains of single-celled organisms that lived millions of years ago (diatoms). Diatomaceous earth works on insects by puncturing their outer protective layer causing death by dehydration. It comes formulated alone or with pyrethrum insecticides. Alone, it is virtually nontoxic to mammals. It is even added to animal feed to control intestinal parasites and worms. This fossil is the abrasive found in many types of toothpaste. In the home, it can be applied in the wall voids, attics and other out-of-the-way spots to kill such insects as ants, cockroaches and dry wood termites. Sprinkled on carpets, it will kill fleas. As a barrier around garden beds, it discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth should be used for pest control (not pool grade).
And Nematodes added outside will end the problem, both can be found online from organic gardening suppliers.
Cheers,
Ned
Meghan Noecker - 25 Sep 2003 10:16 GMT >> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans? Nope. All it does is absorb moisture. If you walk around on the rug barefoot after sprinkling it in, your feet will be a little dry for a couple days. Nothing more.
>> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die? Less than one day, usually. It's only a matter of the dog or cat lying down on the floor and getting the borax to the flea.
For a bad infestation, it takes about a week to get rid of them. For a small number, of fleas, 1-2 days.
We have been using vorax for about 10 years now. No problems. We have cats and dogs as well as free roaming turtles. No problems.
Meghan & the Zoo Crew Equine and Pet Photography Friesians in the Northwest http://www.zoocrewphoto.com
The Real Bev - 26 Sep 2003 06:21 GMT > As a barrier around garden beds, it > discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth > should be used for pest control (not pool grade). Why?
 Signature Cheers, Bev ***************************************** "Don't force it, use a bigger hammer!" --M. Irving
Lar - 26 Sep 2003 06:57 GMT :) > As a barrier around garden beds, it :) > discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] :) :) It is heated to point where the sharp edges are lost and the smaller particles will begin to bond together forming larger more uniform particles, better for filtering, but loses the desiccation benefits.
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Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!
The Real Bev - 27 Sep 2003 01:52 GMT > :) > As a barrier around garden beds, it > :) > discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > forming larger more uniform particles, better for > filtering, but loses the desiccation benefits. Thanks. I ALWAYS want to know why people say things like that.
Last week we bought a big package of Boraxo for a buck. Yesterday I noticed some ants in the bathroom and dribbled some of it through their trail No ants today, and I can still use it to wash my hands!
 Signature Cheers, Bev ======================================================================= "Windows Freedom Day: a holiday that moves each year, the date of which is calculated by adding up the total amount of time a typical person must spend restarting windows and then determining how many work weeks that would correspond to." -- Trygve Lode
timothy198@adelphia.net - 25 Sep 2003 14:39 GMT All of the advice given here so far is good, however there are a couple of things to point out. First off most states are stopping the use of the boric acid flea treatment where you cover the carpet area and tamp in down into the carpet. I think Florida was the first to stop it. Lots of it is due to breathing problems by unsuspecting tenants. You treat with Boric Acid and a new tenant moves in that has bad allergies you may have problems. That other thing is that flea eggs can lay dormant for as much as six months if they have no blood meal. The eggs are laid and they wait until they are "rattled" and then that excites them to start hatching. This is once they are ready to hatch, once they hatch and come into the pupae stage they will be eating Keratin (sp) in the carpet. Once they hatch into young fleas they need blood meals and that is when the biting starts.
Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is a much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter products, get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and within 48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me to come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is less that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it is the truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry the key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case it would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of you.
Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at Walmart or the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the fleas to jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to feed. Use the Frontline, you will be happy.
 Signature I wish you all the best Tim W
Meghan Noecker - 25 Sep 2003 22:09 GMT >All of the advice given here so far is good, however there are a couple of >things to point out. First off most states are stopping the use of the boric >acid flea treatment where you cover the carpet area and tamp in down into >the carpet. I think Florida was the first to stop it. Lots of it is due to >breathing problems by unsuspecting tenants. You treat with Boric Acid and a >new tenant moves in that has bad allergies you may have problems. Do you have any links to information on this? I have asthma, but I have not had any problems with it. I'm the one who sprinkles it into the rug. It's dusty for about an hour, but not bad if you do it right.I don't even sneeze. I find it hard to believe that 3-4 applications a year would cause a breathing problem. And there is no reason to do it more often that that.
Meghan & the Zoo Crew Equine and Pet Photography http://www.zoocrewphoto.com
timothy198@adelphia.net - 26 Sep 2003 04:21 GMT Meghan, I will try to find anything I can on this and let you know. I know several other PCO's in FL and I will have them take a look here at our posts and see if they can help you anymore than I can. Actually it was these guys that told me about a big company in FL that was doing this treatment and they were either shut down or the treatment was stopped and the company had nothing other to do but close their doors. I will see what I can find and post it here for you.
 Signature I wish you all the best Tim W
Lar - 26 Sep 2003 04:56 GMT :) Do you have any links to information on this? I have asthma, but I :) have not had any problems with it. I'm the one who sprinkles it into :) the rug. :) I don't think allergies would be the correct term but people with respiratory issues in general can have problems with the dust. Here is the MSDS for boric acid. http://www.chess.cornell.edu/Safety/MSDS/boric_acid.htm I believe the grade of the product the various companies used for the flea control was not pure boric acid for they claimed it was less toxic than table salt, which boric acid is not, and has of course evolved into grabbing what's ever labeled as boric acid and now is used. I remember several customers that used the "Year Long" flea control cursed many months after the treatments due to excessive dust that constantly had to be cleaned, which had to also of been breathed in. About the only benefit boric acid treatments will have is that it is cheap, but compared product to product, though it can be relatively safe to use, probably is more toxic than what's out there. Another "less toxic" approach will be to introduce insect growth regulators (IGR's) into the area. The sprays for the interior will stay active up to 7 months and can be applied to the pets as a spray monthly. If fleas are brought in and lay eggs before the animal is cleaned, the growth regulator will keep the eggs from hatching. My vote still goes to having the animal treated with either Frontline or Advantage. Before those product it was not unusual to get 3-6 calls a day for fleas during the Summer. After the first year those products came out that dropped to maybe a couple of dozen flea jobs all year long.
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Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!
Meghan Noecker - 26 Sep 2003 08:44 GMT I remember several customers that used the "Year
>Long" flea control cursed many months after the >treatments due to excessive dust that constantly had to >be cleaned, which had to also of been breathed in. Hmm. Ours lasted a little over 5 years, and we never had a problem of dust. Could be the way the put it in the floors, or perhaps differences in climate. I am in Washington.
When that wore off, we switched to Borax, the kind you buy as laundry detergent. One box does our whole house 4 times, so it lasts a year. It doesn't take a lot, and we sprinkle it very liightly, low to the floor, and then sweep it in gently so it doesn't stir a lot of dust. We've been doing that about 10 years now. We did forget twice and let it go 6-8 months without doing it, and those two times, we had a couple days of fleas while the new treatment did its job.
>keep the eggs from hatching. My vote still goes to >having the animal treated with either Frontline or >Advantage. These have always been very expensive (we currently have 7 pets, and have had as many as 10), and while they did work, they had to be reapplied over and over. I also have to wonder about applying these chemicals to our pets.
Once the Borax is down int othe carpet and the excess vacuumed, it really doesn't present a problem.
Perhaps the people with problems were using too much, or doing it frequently?
Meghan & the Zoo Crew Equine and Pet Photography http://www.zoocrewphoto.com
timothy198@adelphia.net - 26 Sep 2003 13:39 GMT Hey Lar, when you get a Flea call do you suggest Frontline first? I ask them if they still have a pet inside and if they do I tell them they would be better off getting the frontline. This year I have done less than 10 flea jobs, those were all special occasions or where the person no longer had an animal. I like telling them the truth and the truth is there is not better treatment than Frontline or Advantage. The question about cost...I hate to sound like such an a.s, but if you can't afford the expenses then you should not have the animal. If you cannot afford this stuff what are you going to do if one of the animals needs some kind of surgery that could cost a grand or more? If you take on the responsibility of owning an animal you need to take on all that comes with it. The person that claims they have had no problems may very well have had nothing......yet. It may come back to haunt them in the years to come. My dad for instance worked in a glass factory and used plain asbestos for over 30 years. They always told them it was "safe" he is now eaten up with Asbestosis. His lungs are highly damaged because of the dust from it.
I know the Boric Acid treatment works, but there is more to it than the point that "it works." Chlorodane worked, DDT worked, Aldrin worked, Heptachlor (sp) worked, Safrotin worked, all of these products worked and it took years to find out what the final results were before they removed this from the shelves. Boric Acid works but I would not use it in a flea treatment under any circumstances.
 Signature I wish you all the best Tim W
Lar - 26 Sep 2003 14:30 GMT In article <rsWcb.4038$iT4.2944357 @news1.news.adelphia.net>, timothy198@adelphia.net says...
:) Hey Lar, when you get a Flea call do you suggest Frontline first? I ask them :) if they still have a pet inside and if they do I tell them they would be :) better off getting the frontline. :) Yes I do, and when I get to the home and get talking to the pet owner and find out that they have started the Frontline or Advantage I will reduce the quoted price they were given. Supposedly over a billion dollars a year went from the pest control industry to the veterinarians....I say they can have it :)
 Signature As you slide down the banister of life, may you not come across any splinters pointing the wrong way.
Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!
timothy198@adelphia.net - 26 Sep 2003 23:54 GMT I must agree with you on that point. In this business there are some pests that are hard to fight and then there are those that I would rather just stay away from, Fleas is in the stay away catagory. If I can suggest something for someone to purchase and use, as long as I know it is better than what I can do I will always make those kind of suggestions. It may cost me a couple of jobs every now and again but I feel it comes back to me in the long run.....
 Signature I wish you all the best Tim W
Cheryl - 27 Sep 2003 01:40 GMT > I must agree with you on that point. In this business there are > some pests that are hard to fight and then there are those that I [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > jobs every now and again but I feel it comes back to me in the long > run..... What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to drown.
Philip ? - 27 Sep 2003 01:47 GMT > What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water > under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the > light and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to > drown. Wow! Never heard of such a thing! Wonder if a different version would work against moths? --
~~Philip
"Never let school interfere with your education - Mark Twain"
timothy198@adelphia.net - 27 Sep 2003 02:02 GMT Cheryl, I have personally used those little gadgets and have found that yes in fact they do work. They actually work quite well. I had a bad flea problem in my home once after keeping the dogs out of the house while we went on vacation, I used those traps and caught several glueboards full of fleas. I recommend those to people that say they just simply cannot afford Frontline or Advantage. I had a customer today as a matter of fact that I treated for fleas, I was there yesterday and did not have the proper supplies to do a flea treat so I went back today, I told them about the light traps and they put 5 of them out last night and there were many many fleas on them. I also recommend that in the water you put a table spoon of Dawn dishwashing detergent. It helps the killing process along.
 Signature I wish you all the best Tim W
Cheryl - 27 Sep 2003 02:10 GMT > Cheryl, I have personally used those little gadgets and have found > that yes in fact they do work. They actually work quite well. I had [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > them. I also recommend that in the water you put a table spoon of > Dawn dishwashing detergent. It helps the killing process along. Good tip on the Dawn, Tim. I haven't had a flea problem in years but I've seen a lot of people suggest a flea comb for seriously infested kittens and repeatedly dip the comb in water with Dawn to drown the fleas while combing. Good to know those traps really work.
Lar - 27 Sep 2003 02:16 GMT :) What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water :) under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light :) and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to drown. :) :) You don't have to go buy special traps either, just plug in a night light in a wall outlet and put a cake/pie pan of water and as Tim said, add a couple of drops of liquid soap.
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Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!
Pete - 27 Sep 2003 06:03 GMT I think everyone is getting confused about the borates because we have homeowners and PCO'S in the same thread. There are no borax ( Borate) products available and labeled for use agianst fleas. Megan can go to the grocery store everyday and buy detergent to apply into her carpet but if I try the same thing as a flea treatment the hammer would fall. There are many times when another product will work great on insect problems ( dishwashing liquid for bee control comes to mind) but if it is not registered, labeled and approved for either the pest or the site then I cannot apply it. The local Fleabusters here in So Cal. used to use a borate and pyrethrium powder combo until someone pointed out that they advertised as not using insecticides. Now it is illegal to have anything in your ads stating that your methods are "safe" or "enviromentally friendly" or anything else along those lines. Borax does work. It really can't be considered a cure all treatment for many reasons. You can't use it on hard surface floors, it tends to damage carpet ( very abrasive ), Shampooing or steamcleaning the carpet full of borax is also exciting( better have a lot of the no foam additive handy) Still if you are a homeowner doing it yourself then you will find the borax method quite satisfactory.
> :) What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water > :) under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > of water and as Tim said, add a couple of drops of > liquid soap. PawsForThought - 27 Sep 2003 13:22 GMT >From: Pete Pestcosvc@earthlink.net
>I think everyone is getting confused about the borates because we have >homeowners and PCO'S in the same thread. There are no borax ( Borate) [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >Still if you are a homeowner doing it yourself then you will find the >borax method quite satisfactory. What about diatomaceous earth (food grade)? Wouldn't that be better than Borax? ________ See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm
Philip ? - 27 Sep 2003 16:29 GMT In news:20030927082203.13107.00000231@mb-m28.aol.com, PawsForThought <darnit7@aol.comnolitter> being of bellicose mind posted:
> What about diatomaceous earth (food grade)? Wouldn't that be > better than Borax? What on earth are you eating? (pun) --
~~Philip
"Never let school interfere with your education - Mark Twain"
PawsForThought - 27 Sep 2003 19:59 GMT >From: "Philip ®" 1chip-state1@earthlink.net.invalid
>PawsForThought <darnit7@aol.comnolitter> being of bellicose mind >posted: [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > ~~Philip Aaaargh! LOL ________ See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm
Bob - 13 Oct 2003 13:01 GMT > Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is a > much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to feed. > Use the Frontline, you will be happy. This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.
Joyce - 13 Oct 2003 13:52 GMT >> Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is a >> much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on >our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us. You are right. You have to treat the enviornment too. If you have fleas that are jumping on you as well as your pet, your home is infested. You can get flea bombs to treat your home, and vacuuming well helps too. Your poor dog!
Joyce
timothy198@adelphia.net - 13 Oct 2003 21:39 GMT Bob I sent you an email with a couple of questions that may answer why this is not working. I am waiting for your reply.
Tim W
 Signature The obvious is not always what it seems to be. If you are to obvious people will tend to turn away.
ZPL - 13 Oct 2003 22:28 GMT They are the newer ones hatching. Will take awhile to catch up with all of the newly hatching ones. In another week, you can try Advantage instead of the Frontline.
> > Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is a > > much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on > our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us. Marshall Dermer - 14 Oct 2003 01:56 GMT Frontline will kill the fleas on your dog. You have fleas and likely flea eggs in your house. You need to use chemicals in your house to kill the fleas and to stop the development (growth inhibitor) of the eggs.
Here in Milwaukee, I go to one of the old time hardware stores and buy the requisite chemicals and spray them on the carpets, beds, furniture of our house. Usually about $60 of chemicals covers our 2000 sq ft house.
--Marshall
devildogokc - 08 Nov 2003 23:05 GMT Frontline will kill adult fleas...if you used it after noticing a problem then you have eggs that will hatch about a week or two later. Need to treat at 10 day intervals to kill new fleas as they hatch. Nothing will penetrate a flea egg! Then stick with frontline to prevent further infestations.
> > Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is a > > much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on > our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us. news.verizon.net - 18 Nov 2003 17:08 GMT I tried this product for flea control and it really worked. I have 2 dogs, 10 cats and a few foster cats. Go to www.fleatreat.com
> Frontline will kill adult fleas...if you used it after noticing a problem > then you have eggs that will hatch about a week or two later. Need to treat [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on > > our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us. Violette - 09 Nov 2003 17:06 GMT > This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be > better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago > and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on > our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us. I noticed the same thing when using Frontline this year. They either produced a bad batch, changed their formula, or fleas are becoming resistant to the product.
We have 9 cats and a dog so flea control is petty important. I finally ended up going back to the vet for a different product...Ovitrol it kills adult fleas and has a growth inhibitor. Voila no more fleas. As long as the animals are treated regularly, they stay flea free. We also treated all of our carpets with borax. Once a month, I also spray the area the dog frequents most with ovitrol.
We have a white cat, she is our flea barometer, when I see a flea on her I know it's time to treat everyone again. This allows us to stretch flea treatment out a little longer than the directions indicate....which i think is better for our animals.
All In One Pest Control - 10 Nov 2003 15:43 GMT The problem could have been where you were constantly using Frontline, if that was all you used. I use Frontline in the spring and summer and then switch to advantage in the fall and winter. This way there isn't any resistance built up from my house. The new Frontline is a good sales tool only. That is just a personal opinion, but the thing it does over the regular frontline is it supposedly kills Mosquitoes. You are not the first person I have encountered that switched to the new stuff and found it did not work as well as the original formulation. I stay with the original formulation when using it. The Mosquito thing is a sales aspect because of the fear built on the West Nile Virus and such. I am not saying it does not kill mosquitoes but I simply don't think it is necessary. Again that is all just a personal observation.
> > This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be > > better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > stretch flea treatment out a little longer than the directions > indicate....which i think is better for our animals. Annie Wxill - 10 Nov 2003 19:10 GMT ... The new Frontline is a good sales tool
> only. That is just a personal opinion, but the thing it does over the > regular frontline is it supposedly kills Mosquitoes. ... The Mosquito thing is a sales aspect because of
> the fear built on the West Nile Virus and such. I am not saying it does not > kill mosquitoes but I simply don't think it is necessary. Again that is all > just a personal observation. I have never used Frontline on our cats, so I can't comment on its effectiveness. The problem with mosquitoes and cats is not about West Nile. It is about heartworm, which is likely to be fatal to cats. Because mosquitoes in our area carry heartworm, we believe that protection is important and necessary for our cats. We used to use Advantage for fleas and Heartguard for heartworm. Now we use Revolution, which protects against both those things and other parasites as well. Annie
Yngver - 10 Nov 2003 20:47 GMT >I have never used Frontline on our cats, so I can't comment on its >effectiveness. The problem with mosquitoes and cats is not about West Nile. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >well. >Annie I agree. Cats are at little or no risk for WNV, but they are at risk for heartworm. We also use Revolution to protect against heartworm. Our cats have never had fleas, so we don't use it for that, but when we brought in a stray that had a severe case of ear mites, we were glad our cats were already on Revolution.
Neil - 25 Sep 2003 21:38 GMT > We have a flea problem in our house. Do you have cats, dogs, or any other pet that fleas like? If so, see your vet about getting Advantage or some similar treatment for your pet(s). Since we did that, we've never had a flea problem again.
Nothing else we tried was anywhere near as effective. Bug sprays, powders, washing everything, etc. provide a little help, but it doesn't last long. In the pre-Advantage era, we found that vacuuming twice daily seemed to make the biggest difference, but since using Advantage we've never had fleas again. Advantage (and similar products) is by far the best solution, IME. Nothing else comes close.
(snip)
PCOpug - 26 Sep 2003 02:36 GMT Very sound advice. I wonder what percentage of actual borates exist in the various "powders"?
My neighbor has roaming cats. She uses the "drops" on her animals (Advantage, Frontline etc.) and this works great !
I saw a case of an elderly lady that was exceptionally clean and never let her cat outside. I believe the fleas came thru the front door. I believe curious outdoor cats had a few residents jump off.
Ingesting borax can cause irritability, anemia, skin inflammation and lesions, hair loss, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, and even death. Potentially lethal doses from borax ingestion are one teaspoon for infants, two for children, and five for adults. The most significant toxicity concerns for borax center around ingestion poisoning and its reproductive toxicity through ingestion. While borax has not been shown to cause cancer or mutations, some animal studies have prompted concerns that it may be a human reproductive toxin, and the California EPA is currently evaluating it for possible consideration as a reproductive toxin under Proposition 65. Borax's conversion to boric acid in water prompts concerns for dermal absorption through broken skin, especially among sensitive infants and children
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