Good! :-)

 I took my

Two cups of dry/day, in addition to the 3 oz. of wet food!?  Holy mackerel,
but that's a LOT of food!  3 oz. of wet, plus 1/2 - 3/4 cup of dry, maybe...
IMO/E, for that size of a cat.

I had an overweight medium-sized cat who weighed 13? lbs.  The vet put her
on a diet of 1/2 cup Science Diet Light/day.  That was it.  She very slowly
(as is advisable) lost weight over the next few years on that diet - to 9? -
10 lbs.  I also fed her *tiny* little treats - a few shreds of cheese, a
Tbs. or 2 of milk, some cantaloupe cubes, etc.  Enough to give her
occasional treats, but not to wreck her weight-loss diet.

Cathy

 But he doesn't eat that much dry food.

Good. Wet is better for him by far. If he prefers it, there is no reason to
switch him.
If he is too fat, just reduce the amount of wet he gets. Just don't reduce it
too much too fast. Cats need to lose weight slowly.
More exercise is helpful, just like with people.

Whoa!!
2 cups dry AND 3 oz wet daily for one cat ?!
My DOG doesn't eat 2 cups of food daily. Then again, she's a small dog... LOL

I have three cats -- 8, 10, and 13 pounds repectively.

These THREE cats (who, unfortunately, prefer dry) SHARE:

Morning: 1 cup of dry
Evening: variable:
        A: 1 cup dry
        B: 3 oz wet and 1/4 - 1/2 cup dry
        C: 5.5 - 6 oz wet

Hiya Carol.  How're ya doin'?

A neutered, inactive 15.75 lb cat needs about 286-300 kcal/day (figure 40-45
kcal/kg/day).  Most 3 oz cans of cat food contain about 85-100 kcals.  So, 3
cans 3 oz cans - without the dry food - would be pretty close to his
maintenance diet.  For him to lose weight *safely*, you'll need to reduce
his daily caloric intake by no more than 25% - or to about 214 kcal/day - or
about 2 cans.  You can leave out about 1/4 cup of dry to fill in the
remaining kcals.  I could give you a more accurate estimate if you let me
know which canned and dry foods he's eating.

Randi has just lost a life-long companion. Are you absolutely sure he's in
the right frame of mind to handle the introduction and presence of a new
cat(s)?  Some cats take longer than others to go through the greiving
process - especially if they were very close.

With Randi, he was

If you feel Randi is ready, the best way to begin the introduction process
is one sense at a time -- let them adjust to each other's scent before
actually seeing and meeting each other.  Set up a 'sanctuary room' for the
new cat.  Put her food and water bowls and a litterbox and a *new*
scratching post in the room and make sure the room has a few hiding places
and cubby holes where she can hide and feel safe when she needs to. You can
also put a towel over the carrier and leave the gate open.  This allows her
to adjust to her new home in security and also doesn't make Randi feel like
his tuff is being invaded.   Initially, keep the door to the sanctuary room
closed.  After a few days, switch the cats.

Once you see that the cats are adjusting to each others' scent, you can
stack 3 gates in the doorway (which you can return after the introduction)
so the cats can see each other and approach each other as closely as they
feel comfortable.  Don't try to force or entice the cats to approach each
other - let them approach each other through the gate in their own time.  If
things get nasty, you can still close the door with the gates in place (just
make sure you place the gates on the inside of the door frame.

http://www.maxshouse.com/introducing_cats.htm

Once you see the cats approaching each other in peace - a few hisses and
spits are normal - start placing their food and water bowls on the far side
of each room and gradually inch them closer to the gate.  When the cats are
able to eat with both bowls touching the gates - you can start letting the
cats approach each other 'in person' without the gates but closely
supervised.  Keep a blanket handy in case of a fight.  The first few
meetings should be short and gradually increase the time together.  If you
see one or both cats getting nervous  or aggressive - put the new cat back
in the sanctuary room before a fight develops.  A serious fight at the
beginning can cause  permanent damage to their relationship.

I'm sure others can add to this, this was just the basics.

Thanks, Carol       Oh, and my vet has KITTENS available

Littermates and young kittens are great to watch grow up together!  Many
become *very* close and best buds for life.  The only problem is that they
usually ignore *us* and would rather play with each other!

Best of luck.

Phil.