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Cat Forum / Health and Behavior / February 2005Photographing Black Cats
Is there a trick? Yesterday I took pictures of Buddha lying in the sunshine on the back of the couch in the front room and they are all so dark you can hardly see her. See last two photos here: http://photos.yahoo.com/crazyaboutfelines. (Every morning I find her lying on the back of the couch in the dark with her nose up in the air like she is sunbathing. She is waiting for me to open the drapes and pull back the sheers! Note the kitty claw holes in the sheers and you'll see why I pull them back.) > Is there a trick? Yesterday I took pictures of Buddha lying in the > sunshine [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > http://photos.yahoo.com/crazyaboutfelines. When taking photo's infront of a window, I find that using the flash helps. "Judy" <wumpygirleatsnospam@yahoo.com> wrote> > can > > hardly see her. > > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > When taking photo's infront of a window, I find that using the flash helps. Thank you, I should have mentioned that I tried that. The flash makes her eyes weird--either red, or when I use the "no redeye" function, a spooky green that is ugly. > Is there a trick? Yesterday I took pictures of Buddha lying in the > sunshine [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > sheers > and you'll see why I pull them back.) Mary, this is pretty common when trying to photograph black cats. It is particularly difficult to get a good picture of a black cat that shows detail because of the lack of contrast in the cat's coat. In this case, your cat has backlighting from the window. Sometimes that works well, but often it creates the problem that you described in your message (although the pictures can be seen better than what I expected from your description). I have found that I often need to use a flash even when light is otherwise adequate if I want to get a good picture of Holly (a completely black cat). If you have a flash that can be tilted to face the ceiling, that would be ideal because it would create bounce light. Unfortunately, I don't have that capability. There are also a number of easy-to-use photo management programs for the computer that enable the user to adjust contrast, and that can be very helpful. I use ThumbsPlus (paid) and dcenhanc (free). MaryL >Mary, this is pretty common when trying to photograph black cats. It is >particularly difficult to get a good picture of a black cat that shows [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >ideal because it would create bounce light. Unfortunately, I don't have >that capability. You can do this by taking a piece of card, like a 3x5 card, bending it, and taping it to the front of the flash so that it comes out at an upward angle, forcing the light to go up and not straight forward. It will prevent the red eye yet still add light to the situation. Also keep in mind that the cameras are programmed to average a scene, so black and white will cause problems. You often have to change the settings to get better detail. And with black hair, you really need to use flash or get some really nice natural light to llight up the hairs and bring out the detail. You can also make a reflector. Get a pan or board, cover it will foil, and use it redirect the light at the cat.  Signature-- Meghan & the Zoo Crew Equine and Pet Photography http://www.zoocrewphoto.com >>Mary, this is pretty common when trying to photograph black cats. It is >>particularly difficult to get a good picture of a black cat that shows [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > Equine and Pet Photography > http://www.zoocrewphoto.com Thanks. You have made some good suggestions (although my cats probably wouldn't sit still long enough for me to accomplish the tasks). Anyway, I'm going to try the the index card "deflector" sometime. MaryL > Mary, this is pretty common when trying to photograph black cats. It is > particularly difficult to get a good picture of a black cat that shows [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I have found that I often need to use a flash even when light is otherwise > adequate if I want to get a good picture of Holly (a completely black cat). I remember Holly! I hate the flash because it makes her eyes weird. I'll try it again tonight, though, as see if her coat comes out better. > If you have a flash that can be tilted to face the ceiling, that would be > ideal because it would create bounce light. Unfortunately, I don't have > that capability. There are also a number of easy-to-use photo management > programs for the computer that enable the user to adjust contrast, and that > can be very helpful. I use ThumbsPlus (paid) and dcenhanc (free). Thanks for the advice! "Mary"--------------------> > Is there a trick? Yesterday I took pictures of Buddha lying in the sunshine > on the back of the couch in the front room and they are all so dark you can [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > the drapes and pull back the sheers! Note the kitty claw holes in the sheers > and you'll see why I pull them back.) Mary, try pushing the exposure compensation up a half or full stop, that should get you a little lighter. That said, black cats are not easily photographed, at least by me. I have two and have very few pictures that look good right from the start. I usually end up doing extra processing in software [I use PaintShop Pro] to get to see fur definition better. Signaturebill n snip >That said, black cats are not easily photographed, at least by me. I have >two and have very few pictures that look good right from the start. I >usually end up doing extra processing in software [I use PaintShop Pro] to >get to see fur definition better. That's true - and the other thing is that with digital cameras there's loads of info in the picture which you can get at when you reprocess it in the way you describe. I looked at Mary's pic in Adope Image Ready, and by pushing up the brightness and contrast I can see loads of detail in the cat's coat. Of course at that point, the window is completely white, but a bit of practice with a tool like that will let you construct excellent pictures by using dodge and burn of selected areas. As a photographer though, I agree with those who recommend fill-in flash. And the basic problem is back-lighting a black animal - get him when he's lying in the sun on the couch or carpet - you'll get loads of detail ! Jim > snip > >That said, black cats are not easily photographed, at least by me. I have [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > the basic problem is back-lighting a black animal - get him when he's lying in > the sun on the couch or carpet - you'll get loads of detail ! Thank you, Jim. There's another couch on the other side of the room that the sunlight might hit just right. I'll try to take a photo of my little model then. > Mary, try pushing the exposure compensation up a half or full stop, that > should get you a little lighter. Is this the "f stop setting?" I don't understand what "exposure compensation" is, and there is sure nothing on the camera that says that! > That said, black cats are not easily photographed, at least by me. I have > two and have very few pictures that look good right from the start. I > usually end up doing extra processing in software [I use PaintShop Pro] to > get to see fur definition better. Thanks, Bill! > > Mary, try pushing the exposure compensation up a half or full stop, that > > should get you a little lighter. > > Is this the "f stop setting?" I don't understand what "exposure > compensation" is, and there is sure nothing on the camera that > says that! No, EC or ev isn't the f/stop. It's another button that lets you manually adjust the exposure, good for backlit scenes like you are experiencing. I went over to Steve's Digicams site to take a look at your camera. Look at the back of it, see the row of buttons below the viewscreen? The first one on the left, labeled with a black and white box with a "+/-" sign on it is your exposure comp button. [Next comes the long distance/macro button with the mountain/flower combo, then the button for different modes of flash, then the menu button]. You have a choice of +2 to -2 ev in 1/3rd ev stops. You've got a great little camera there, Mary, don't let anyone tell you different. It's a lot better than my first camera, a Kodak LS443, which has very similar features, but I didn't know that when I bought it in late 2002. I think the key to getting acceptable cat photos is to get up as close as you can to fill the viewfinder up with "cat", just if you get real close to his face make sure the flash is turned off, don't want to blind him. That's what I did for my better one's with my Kodak. Your 4300 will take beautiful macro shots of flowers if you're into that. Now I use a Nikon 5700, which is simiar to the 8800 someone was telling you about, but the 8800 is new and has some better features. The best pics under our conditions are going to come from a dSLR, such as the Nikon D70 or Canon 300D [Digital Rebel] on the lower priced end as you can get different lenses that are 'faster', or allow more light to enter the camera, plus use a higher ISO setting. This lets you take photos with available room lighting [in a reasonably well lit room] with a fast enough shutter speed so if kitty moves you still have a chance at a good picture. There's nothing like having the perfect pose, then as you press the shutter button, your subject decides to move his head, even minutely ;-) If you want to go to Steve site for your camera it's at: http://www.steves-digicams.com/2002_reviews/nikon4300.html Also, hang out in alt.binaries.pictures.animals and alt.binaries.photos.original, there's some absoutely fabulous cat photos posted on a regular basis, once in a while even by me :-). Regards, Signaturebill n > No, EC or ev isn't the f/stop. It's another button that lets you manually adjust the exposure, good for backlit scenes like you are experiencing. Ahh, I see! > I went over to Steve's Digicams site to take a look at your camera. That was really nice of you, Bill, thanks. >Look at the back of it, see the row of buttons below the >viewscreen? The first one on the left, labeled with a black and white box with a "+/-" sign on it is your exposure comp button. [Next comes the long distance/macro button with the mountain/flower combo, then the button for different modes of flash, then the menu button]. You have a choice of +2 to -2 ev in 1/3rd ev stops. Oh, okay, cool! Now I understand! > You've got a great little camera there, Mary, don't let anyone tell you different. Thank you. I went to a camera shop and asked a lot of questions, then visited groups where they talk about cameras, and asked some questions here, too, and it seemed that the Nikon Coolpix would be good. People sold me on its user-friendliness, and I have to agree that the way it operates is very logical. The reason I have not mastered it yet is just because of time. >It's a lot better than my first camera, a Kodak LS443, >which has very similar features, but I didn't know that >when I bought it in late 2002. I had wanted a digital forever, but wanted to wait until they became a bit cheaper. > I think the key to getting acceptable cat photos is to get up as close as you can to fill the viewfinder up with "cat", just if you get real close to his face make sure the flash is turned off, don't want to blind him. That's what I did for my better one's with my Kodak. Your 4300 will take beautiful macro shots of flowers if you're into that. Thanks for the tips, I have saved this post to my "helpful" file! > Thanks for the tips, You're very welcome! > I have saved this post to my "helpful" file! And I'm flattered ;-) One thing I forgot to mention -- maybe someone else did, I didn't have time to read all the replies -- is to make use of the different types of exposure metering that is available to you, mainly 'matrix', 'center weighted' and 'spot'. Using the picture you posted, you'd probably get three radically different pictures if you took the same pic under each setting. I found all that out the hard way and just by experimenting with my Kodak and I think I liked 'center weighted' the best. 'Spot' actually pinpoints one area and gives you a reading, so if you were to get near kitty's black fur and try to shoot with spot, you'd probably end up with gray fur as the camera would try to average out the color, thereby letting in a lot of light. It would also be a much longer exposure than 'matrix', so would be hard to hand-hold [need a tripod or some support]. Main thing is, try them all, experiment and have fun, that's how I learned much of those gizmos in the menu. If you forget which setting you used on any shot, each image carries with it something called 'exif' info, which includes all the settings in effect when the photo was taken. The software you use to process the image should provide you with that. If not, try using IrfanView, a free program available from irfanview.com, that gives you the ability to resize the pic, add contrast, saturation, sharpening, etc. You load a pic into it after you've transferred them from your camera onto the computer. Then you can access the exif either from the menu or by pressing the letter "I", then hit "E" I believe. I love my cameras, and my processing software, but like everyone else, we would have even more fun if it weren't for time constraints. Anyhow, have a great weekend ;-) bill n > One thing I forgot to mention -- maybe someone else did, I didn't have time > to read all the replies -- is to make use of the different types of exposure > metering that is available to you, mainly 'matrix', 'center weighted' and > 'spot'. Using the picture you posted, you'd probably get three radically > different pictures if you took the same pic under each setting. I just checked this out this morning, and you're absolutely right, thanks. > Main thing is, try them all, experiment and have fun, that's how I learned > much of those gizmos in the menu. If you forget which setting you used on > any shot, each image carries with it something called 'exif' info, which [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > I love my cameras, and my processing software, but like everyone else, we > would have even more fun if it weren't for time constraints. There's the rub! I am one of those geeks who generally reads the whole manual and wants more info--but work will not permit at the moment. > Anyhow, have a great weekend ;-) You too, Bill. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into helping me. Thank you. -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- From: "Mary" <crazyaboutfelines@yahoo.com> >Is there a trick? What are you using. My old 35 mm is easy. You just get close to the cat and half press the shutter button to lock in to auto f-stop setting then back off, frame & focus, click. That's pretty common with the older stuff. I've got an Olympus 400 digital that's way too automatic and I'm still trying to develop my technique. You may be able to lighten the exposure by way of the menu settings. A flash will help, also. The "trick" is to get the light reading from the cat instead of the surroundings. When all else fails, RTFM. :-) I always seem to have to tweak the digital photo a little with paintshop. If you're using a disposable camera, you're probably screwed. > -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > What are you using. It is just a Nikon Coolpix 4300. But it does have a manual setting so that I could do some things with it I am afraid I have to learn it. I keep it on "auto" too much. > My old 35 mm is easy. You just get close to the cat and half > press the shutter button to lock in to auto f-stop setting then back > off, frame & focus, click. I know I can choose the f-stop setting etc. But I have never had the sort of camera I have wanted: a fully manual 35 mm is what I always wanted before digitals came around. Because I never got one I never learned what all the settings mean. I guess I have some reading to do. > That's pretty common with the older stuff. > I've got an Olympus 400 digital that's way too automatic and I'm still trying > to develop my technique. You may be able to lighten the exposure by > way of the menu settings. A flash will help, also. There are all these settings. I have read the book, at least for the major stuff, just not the manual settings. There is a "point and shoot" setting, then one with a menu with things like "night time landscape" or "indoor party." Then there is a setting, as I said above, that seems to correspond to the old manual 35 mm settings. > The "trick" is to get the light reading from the cat instead of the surroundings. Hmm, now that is something that honestly had not occurred!! I am early in the learning curve ... hahaha > When all else fails, RTFM. :-) Yep. Guess I will have to break down and do it. > I always seem to have to tweak the digital photo a little with paintshop. > If you're using a disposable camera, you're probably screwed. Hee! You bet. >> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Hmm, now that is something that honestly had not occurred!! I am > early in the learning curve ... hahaha With many digital cameras, you can accomplish this by focusing directly on the cat (or whatever other object you want), hold the shutter *half-way* down -- but not to the point of actually taking the picture -- then re-aim to get the full picture you want and click the shutter. MaryL > With many digital cameras, you can accomplish this by focusing directly on > the cat (or whatever other object you want), hold the shutter *half-way* > down -- but not to the point of actually taking the picture -- then re-aim > to get the full picture you want and click the shutter. I think this is what Phil was talking about. I'll try it again tonight. > > With many digital cameras, you can accomplish this by focusing directly on > > the cat (or whatever other object you want), hold the shutter *half-way* > > down -- but not to the point of actually taking the picture -- then re-aim > > to get the full picture you want and click the shutter. > > I think this is what Phil was talking about. I'll try it again tonight. Holding the shutter release halfway down will lock in the focus - I don't know if the 4300 has autoexposure lock too - if it does, you'll lock in both exposure and focus, so just don't move or let the shutter button up while you're recomposing the shot. I tried looking for the manual, but it isn't available online. Wanna buy an 8800? 10x optical /4x digital zoom , 8 megapixels, vibration reduction, every programmable scene you can imagine - including backlight, exposure compensation, video as long as your CF card will hold, remote control, 2 batteries and a power grip that uses AA, and a 5 year waranty. I can't deal with the shutter lag shooting cats and I don't need all the bells & whistles on the 8800. I wanted 8 mp and a long lens so I can crop the hell out of long shots and take medical close-ups and still fill an 8x10/11x14 with the subject. I like the Nikon D70 SLR digital - fast as hell and takes most of my Nikon 35mm F-3 SLR lenses. Phil "Phil P." <phil@maxshouse.com> wrote in > Wanna buy an 8800? 10x optical /4x digital zoom , 8 megapixels, vibration > reduction, every programmable scene you can imagine - including backlight, > exposure compensation, video as long as your CF card will hold, remote > control, 2 batteries and a power grip that uses AA, and a 5 year waranty. It sounds fab but I have a rule that I am not allowed to buy *another* thing until I have at least mastered the first one! > I can't deal with the shutter lag shooting cats and I don't need all the > bells & whistles on the 8800. I wanted 8 mp and a long lens so I can crop > the hell out of long shots and take medical close-ups and still fill an > 8x10/11x14 with the subject. Yeah, I don't like that lag either. > I like the Nikon D70 SLR digital - fast as hell and takes most of my Nikon > 35mm F-3 SLR lenses. I'll check that one out. I got a good deal on my 4300 and it's my first digital so I had better stick with it until I at least learn how to use it! > "Phil P." <phil@maxshouse.com> wrote in > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > my first digital so I had better stick with it until I at least > learn how to use it! Phil and Mary, Take a look at this web site: http://www.shortcourses.com/ This site has a series of short courses in photography. Some are for sale, but there are also a number of freebies than you can download to your computer. Click on #8 for a short guide to digital photography. It includes guides to several Nikon cameras. Your camera models aren't listed, but there should be enough similarity to help. Item #1 lists some short courses in book or CD format. I bought one of the books several years ago when I got my first digital camera (Nikon Coolpix 880), and I was very pleased with it. It is much like a user's manual, but much easier to understand. It's also easier on the eyes, visually, than the actual user's manual because it has larger print, good-quality pictures, and opens flat with a spiral binding. MaryL > > -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- > > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > I am afraid I have to learn it. I keep it on "auto" too > much. I have a Nikon Coolpix 8800 - the exposure systems are similar. Rotate the mode dial to the green camera icon. Then push the flash selector (lightening bolt) until you see the backlight indicator. Its an image of a head with a star behind it over the shoulder. Fire away. This setting will balance the fill-in flash with the overall exposure of the scene. Phil > > My old 35 mm is easy. You just get close to the cat and half > > press the shutter button to lock in to auto f-stop setting then back [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Hee! You bet. > > It is just a Nikon Coolpix 4300. But it does have > > a manual setting so that I could do some things with it [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > This setting will balance the fill-in flash with the overall exposure of the > scene. Damn, Phil, all the 4300 has under that menu is no flash, flash, no redeye and "slow." > Is there a trick? Yesterday I took pictures of Buddha lying in the > sunshine on the back of the couch in the front room and they are all [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > me to open the drapes and pull back the sheers! Note the kitty claw > holes in the sheers and you'll see why I pull them back.) She is so cute! Re: black pets: my dogs are black -- what you have to do is increase the contrast and brightness in the photos, using whatever photo program you have, I use Photoshop because I have it at work. All of Zoe's puppy pictures looked like a black smudge until I figured this out. --Catherine & Rosalie the calico & her 2 black dogs, Zoe & Queenie >Re: black pets: my dogs are black -- what you have to do is increase the >contrast and brightness in the photos, using whatever photo program you >have, I use Photoshop because I have it at work. Increasing contrast always makes black object blacker with less tonal range. It's easy to observe as all mid tones in an object disappear as contrast is increased. -Maurice >>Re: black pets: my dogs are black -- what you have to do is increase the >>contrast and brightness in the photos, using whatever photo program you [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > range. It's easy to observe as all mid tones in an object disappear as > contrast is increased. That does make sense, but somehow increasing the contrast slightly, while increasing brightness more, seems to work the best for pictures of my dog Zoe. --Catherine & Rosalie the calico >That does make sense, but somehow increasing the contrast slightly, while >increasing brightness more, seems to work the best for pictures of my dog >Zoe. Your brightness adjustment is compensating for the contrast setting. You should need less brightness adjustment if you do not raise the contrast. -mhd "ceb" <ceb4v@virginia.edu> wrote > > http://photos.yahoo.com/crazyaboutfelines. > > (Every morning I find her lying on the back of the couch in the dark > > with her nose up in the air like she is sunbathing. She is waiting for > > me to open the drapes and pull back the sheers! Note the kitty claw > > holes in the sheers and you'll see why I pull them back.) > > She is so cute! Thank you. :) She's my big baby. Last night I let her lay on my chest while I watched TV, and she eventually "stood on her head" and went to sleep. Have you seen cats do this? she actually tucked her head under so that the top of it was flat to my chest, purring up a storm. It's hard to see how she breathes like that! Then when I had to get up she hissed at me! lol > Re: black pets: my dogs are black -- what you have to do is increase the > contrast and brightness in the photos, using whatever photo program you > have, I use Photoshop because I have it at work. > > All of Zoe's puppy pictures looked like a black smudge until I figured > this out. Thank you, Catharine. I have never messed with photo editing software, I guess it is time to learn. > Is there a trick? Yesterday I took pictures of Buddha lying in the sunshine > on the back of the couch in the front room and they are all so dark you can > hardly see her. Someone on the birds &/or animals binaries ng(s) - I can't remember which or both - has posted excellent photos of crows. A query in those ngs might turn up some clues. Cathy > See last two photos here: > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > the drapes and pull back the sheers! Note the kitty claw holes in the sheers > and you'll see why I pull them back.) |
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