My cat Star did that, she is 11, we put an extra litterbox nearby and
she has not pooped in the bathtub or anywhere else since we did that.

Makes me wonder if her pan is large enough for her -- does she overlap it?
Another thought:  could it be that she exits too quickly and it drops
outside?   MLB

Adding a second box next to the first is one thing I would do. I would
*definitely* have her checked at the vet and get an entire geriatic blood
panel done on her. The yowling around the apartment can be a sign of thyroid
problems. At 17 this is a distinct possibility and she may be very
uncomfortable.

Are her poops really sticky or her butt fur long?   I ask because I've
known cats to actually poop within the box but the poop not dropping to
the floor until they're out of the box.

As to the crying, she may be a little deaf or possibly having cognitive
problems.  When she cries, do you call out to answer her?  She may just
be looking for you.

Priscilla

Hello can you help me fix a problem or offer any suggestions.
I have a 17 year old cat that has been pooping on the floor for the last 3
years.  Most of the time she does it in her very clean litter box, but
sometimes she goes right next to it. Maybe two times a week she'll have an
accident.  She never pees on the floor it is always poop. How can I stop
this?
Also she walks around my apartment crying sometimes.  It's like she is in
heat again.  Other than these two strange behaviours she seems fine. She
always eats, drinks and uses the litter as usual, and she is the only animal
in my household. Is this an age related behaviour?
Thank you.

``````````````````````

Try putting another litter box - or even 2, all in a row next to the present
one.  Also, if the box isn't really large, try a larger one as an extra.

Both of my cats occasionally make the crying noise, for no apparent reason.
If this is a brand-new behavior for her, you might want to ask your vet
about it, in case it's indicative/a symptom of a health problem.

Cathy

**HI cagney,

I'm not a vet, but she is* elderly, and sounds like she might be suffering from constipation. Of course, if she hasn't already been checked out by a vet then  you need to take her in for a check up and describe her systems to your vet, exactly.  Her crying could* be linked to the fact that she is uncomfortable and in discomfort and maybe even disoriented. Your cat is already in her eighties, in people* years.

My elderly cat, Blue, would often cry in the middle of the night, which he began doing on and off when he was about 15. When I would come to him or sometimes just called back to him, then he would stop and seemed comforted and assured. He seemed * to want the assurance of knowing where his mommy was. However, if he ever began crying excessively, for more than 2 or 3 days, then I would *always* take him to my vet! Crying can very well mean "I'm in PAIN!!"  

Blue still had his 'mind' and was lucid just one day before passed away, but he was  definite getting much slower and more forgetful. Time gets 'off' with the elderly. Morning times was often Blue's best time. I assumed that since he was fairly okay, healthwise, that his loud 'yowling' was because he was confused and disoriented, like an elderly person sometimes gets.

Towards the last 2 years of his life ( he lived to be 19 1/2), Blue would, about once a week, accidentally poop on the  kitchen floor which was very near where his litter box was located. But He, too, never urinated anywhere but in his box.  He'd also gone in* his litter box as there would be a remnant there as well. He would often strain ( another sign) and when the urge would hit him, began to lose the ability to make it to the potty box. I'd often use"hair ball" formula dry food for a  the laxative effect it would have.

Try buying a can of pumpkin and put some in his food. Not only is it healthy for them but it has lots of fiber in it.. Good luck!

ML

 Hello can you help me fix a problem or offer any suggestions.
 I have a 17 year old cat that has been pooping on the floor for the last 3 years.  Most of the time she does it in her very clean litter box, but sometimes she goes right next to it. Maybe two times a week she'll have an accident.  She never pees on the floor it is always poop. How can I stop this?
 Also she walks around my apartment crying sometimes.  It's like she is in heat again.  Other than these two strange behaviours she seems fine. She always eats, drinks and uses the litter as usual, and she is the only animal in my household. Is this an age related behaviour?
 Thank you

HOWEDY Cagney,

You're asking folks who got the same problem
and got NO method or suggestions other than
to do what they've done to get the same PROBLEM.

UNLESS your kat is SICK he's making a STATEMENT.

It's unlikely he'd be SICK for three years.

Your kat is tryin to TELL you sumpthin.

No. HOWEsbreaking is INSTINCTIVE. If your
kat or dog is having HOWEsbreakin problems
it's EITHER on accHOWENT of he's SICK or
UNHAPPY.

You got LUCKY.

You'll have to learn HOWE to pupperly handle
and train your critters, Cagney.

S-HOWENDS like she's unhappy.

If you PRAISE her she'll be HAPPY.

Strange? MOST of the kat lovers on this
forum GOT THE SAME PROBLEM and
got NO understanding of HOWE COME
their critters GET deathly ill and behave
neurotically.

No, if she SEEMED FINE you wouldn't be posting.

Good. Shouldn't take but WON HOWER of STUDYING
your FREE copy of The Amazing Puppy Wizard's FREE
WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual and a
few minutes of doing some of the exercises and your
kat will AUTOMAGICKALLY not DO that noMOORE.

Could be but probably not.

You'll have to EXXXTRAPOLATE a little on
the METHOD to suit your kat but be creative
and follow the PRINCIPLES PRECISELY and
ASK The Amazing Puppy Wizard if you need
any additional FREE HEELP.

You should CURE this problem in WON DAY:

     "The Methods, Principles, And Philosophy Of Behavior
                                Never Change,
        Or They'd Not Be Scientific And Would Not Obtain
            Consistent, Reliable, Fast, Effective Results
                               For All Handler's
                                 And All Dogs,
                            NEARLY INSTANTLY,
 As Taught In Your FREE Copy Of The Puppy Wizard's FREE
          WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual,"
                        The Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ )  >

You can TRAIN ANY DOG in a few minutes if you
don't follow the ADVICE of the lying dog abusing
MENTAL CASES you're askin for ADVICE.

                You GET The Critter You TRAINED

                           A DOG Is A Dog;
                        As A KAT Is A KAT;
                     As A BIRDY Is A BIRDY;
                    As A CHILD IS A CHILD;
            As A SP-HOWES Is a SP-HOWES.

 ALL Behavior Problems Are CAUSED BY MISHANDLING

                    ALL Critters Only Respond In
         PREDICTABLE INNATE NORMAL NATURAL
                  INSTINCTIVE REFLEXIVE Ways;
 To Situations And Circumstances Of Their Environment
                    Which We Create For Them.

      Damn The Descartean War of "Nature Vs Nurture."
           We Teach By HOWER Words And Actions
                 And GET BACK What We TAUGHT.

              "It is by muteness that a dog becomes
                         so utterly beyond value."

                        Like a confessor Priest?

                                 "With him,
                    words play no torturing tricks.........., "
                             --John Galsworthy.

                Don't bet your dog won't tell on you...
                          Their behaviors reflect
           HOWER words, actions and training quirks.
           Jerry HOWE, The Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~  )  >

      "The greatness of a nation and its moral progress
                              can be judged
                  by the way its animals are treated."
     ~ Mohandas Gandhi -- Adapted with permission from
     his FREE copy of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW
     Wits' End Dog Training Method manual. <} ; ~  )   >

   There are NO grey areas between RIGHT and WRONG.

      "If you talk with the animals, they will talk with you
                     and you will know each other.
       If you do not talk to them, you will not know them,
              and what you do not know you will fear.

                     What one fears, one destroys."
                              Chief Dan George

                 "Only the unenlightened speak of
                         wisdom and right action
                               as separate,
                               not the wise.

      If any man knows one, he enjoys the fruit of both.

            The level which is reached by wisdom
                                is attained
                   through right action as well.

     He who perceives that the two are one knows the truth."

      "Even the wise man acts in character with his nature,
        indeed all creatures act according to their natures.

                What is the use of compulsion then?

                The love and hate which are aroused
                          by the objects of sense
                             arise from Nature,
                           do not yield to them.

                     They only obstruct the path."  --
                     Bhagavad Gita, adapted by
                     Krishna with permission from
                     His FREE copy of The Puppy
                     Wizard's FREE Wits' End Dog
                     Training Method manual <{) ; ~  )   >

     Force training JERRYIZES dogs and GETS THEM DEAD.

Study my manual carefully and follow all the
instructions and exercises precisely and you'll
get 100% TOTAL NON PHYSICAL CONTROL
NEARLY INSTANTLY. It'd help to study the
manual using a text to speech reader. There's
a free one at http://www.readplease.com

Ask me if you need any additional free heelp.

      "The Methods, Principles, And Philosophy Of Behavior
                                    Never Change,
          Or They'd Not Be Scientific And Could Not Obtain
               Consistent, Reliable, Fast, Effective Results
                          For All Handler's And All Dogs,
                                 NEARLY INSTANTLY,
      As Taught In Your FREE Copy Of The Puppy Wizard's
     FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual,"
                            The Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ )  >

                You GET The Critter You TRAINED

                           A DOG Is A Dog;
                        As A KAT Is A KAT;
                     As A BIRDY Is A BIRDY;
                    As A CHILD IS A CHILD;
            As A SP-HOWES Is a SP-HOWES.

 ALL Behavior Problems Are CAUSED BY MISHANDLING

                    ALL Critters Only Respond In
         PREDICTABLE INNATE NORMAL NATURAL
                  INSTINCTIVE REFLEXIVE Ways;
 To Situations And Circumstances Of Their Environment
                    Which We Create For Them.

      Damn The Descartean War of "Nature Vs Nurture."
           We Teach By HOWER Words And Actions
                 And GET BACK What We TAUGHT.

              "It is by muteness that a dog becomes
                         so utterly beyond value."

                        Like a confessor Priest?

                                 "With him,
                    words play no torturing tricks.........., "
                             --John Galsworthy.

               Don't bet your dog won't tell on you...
                         Their behaviors reflect
         HOWER words, actions and training quirks.
         Jerry HOWE, The Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~  )  >

If you can't train ALL behaviors NEARLY INSTANTLY
withHOWET PAIN FEAR FORCE BRIBERY AVOIDANCE
or INTIMIDATION you're using an ineffective method or
you're doin it wrong.

The fameHOWES horse trainer Monty Roberts
AGREES, and teaches similar techniques, begining
with his version of The Amazing Puppy Wizard's
Family Ledership Exercise.

Monty's 100% NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL
techniques teaches us to "JOIN UP" with the horse,
using EFFECTIVE NON PHYSICAL PSYCHOLOGICAL
TECHNIQUES and PRINCIPLES of behavior as taught
in your FREE copy of The Amazing Puppy Wizard's
FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual.

Monty sez abHOWET bribery and food luring:
he's "NEVER seen a horse run to the next blade
of grass." Monty teaches UNCONDITIONAL LOVE
TRUST GENTLENESS and CONSISTENTCY and
applies his techniques to problem children he fosters
at his ranch, as well as doin business consultation
for managemet personell of corporations.

Monty has FHOWEND as The Amazing Puppy Wizard SEZ:

       In The Problem Animal Behavior BUSINESS
                     FAILURE MEANS DEATH.
                    SAME SAME SAME SAME,
      For The Problem Child Behavior BUSINESS.

       "If you talk with the animals, they will talk with you
                      and you will know each other.
        If you do not talk to them, you will not know them,
               and what you do not know you will fear.

                      What one fears, one destroys."
                               Chief Dan George

Here's ALL the INFORMATION you need to
pupperly handle and train your dog:

The Wits' End Dog Training Method
Jerry Howe
Copyright 8/24/2002
Phone: 1-888-WITSEND
Phone: 1-407-425-5092
ThePuppyWizard@EarthLink.net
MSN Messenger: doggydoright@hotmail.com
http://www.doggydoright.com

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 3
HOW IS WITS' END DOG TRAINING DIFFERENT? 4
PART I
1. METHODOLOGY 6
1A. Common Misunderstandings 7
1B. Learn Today! 9
2. GETTING STARTED 12
2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling 12
2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex? 14
2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in
Minutes 15
3. The "Hot" and "Cold" Exercise 19
4. The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise 20
5. Practicing the "Recall" or "Come" Command 22
6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex 23
7. Use Sound to Break Bad Behavior! 24 (Also see conclusion)
7A. Other Examples of Sound to Correct Bad Behavior 26
7B. Unacceptable Expressions of Dominance 27
7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance 28
7D. How to Correct Mouthing 29
7E. No Dogs on Beds! And Other Problems 33
7F. Housebreaking Technique
8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover 34
The Alpha Rollover 34
9. Separation Anxiety Surrogate Toy Technique 36
9A.The Soggy Potato Chip Theory 37

10. THE WITS' END DOG TRAINING METHOD GLOSSARY 38
10A. State Conditioned Learning
10B.Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct
10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind
10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimeter Training

PART II
1. OBEDIENCE 46
2. ASK YOUR DOG TO WORK 47
2A. Back to Work 48
2B. Stay 49
2C. Sit From the Side 49
2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel 50
2E. Sit From the Front 51
3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE 52
3A. Down From the Side 56
3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command 57
3C. Returning to the Heel Position 58
3D. Down From the Front 59
4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS 60
5. STAND 62

Introduction

The Wits' End Dog Training Method is the fastest,
gentlest, most effective, comprehensive behavior
modification/obedience and protection training
technique available anywhere...

And now, it's FREE!!! It's copyright 2002 information,
so be advised: use it wisely, and use it often; use,
copy, and distribute it in it its entirety or none at all.

Our no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement
approach is unique, systematic, and unconventional,
which means no dog is too young, too old, too large,
too small, too stubborn, too stupid or too bad, to train.

Specializing in problem dog behavior compelled us to
research new methods to instruct humans as well as
canines. All dog behavior problems are caused by our
ineffective and inappropriate efforts to control their
predictable, innate, normal, natural, instinctive, reflexive
responses to circumstances of their environment we
create for them.

Not everyone needs formal obedience training, but
you do need a dog you can live with, starting today,
not after lengthy training, not after your dog matures,
not when it's too late!

This requires a basic understanding of how your
dog thinks and learns. That, and the "Family Pack
Leadership" exercise, coupled with teaching the
"recall" or "come" command, are all that one needs
to effectively control the companion dog.

The mistakes your dog makes are neither mistakes
nor accidents. They are instinctive challenges to
your leadership and authority.

Wits' End Dog Training anticipates these impending
mistakes inherent to each phase of training, and
relies on them to turn the tables psychologically on
your pet to convince him you are his appropriate
leader, and make him want to do anything you ask.

Wits' End Dog Training is easy, quick, and foolproof,
and works with every time, with every canine, even
wolves!

The ability to think, rationalize, and solve problems
are learned qualities. Our enlightened methods
challenge the learning centers in your dog's brain.

These centers develop and continue to grow
exponentially. Wits' End Dog Training capitalizes
on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy,
and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition,
bribery, constant corrections, and scolding.

This manual will provide all the tools you will need
to learn to properly handle and train your dog. We
will address the most difficult behaviors with safe
effective tools, real answers, and common sense
advice.

Successful completion of our program means you
will never need another dog-training lesson again!

We train you to use the most effective, positive,
intelligent formulas, based on scientific,
psychological, and behavioral principles, and
accelerated learning techniques.

We will teach you how dogs learn, and how to
apply our forty years of knowledge and experience
to convince your dog to do anything you ask, the
first time, every time!

How is Wits' End Dog Training Different?

Wits' End Dog Training methodology is not
concerned with "training," but rather teaching the
development of the thought process, molding and
safeguarding the proper development of personality,
stable temperament, and good character.

The first thing you may notice is the lack of confusing
psychobabble. Sure, it's almost impossible to avoid
any use of psychobabble, but there's no need to
complicate learning new information with unnecessary
technical jargon.

In an effort to eschew obfuscation, and, for your
enjoyment, we have provided a list of several
psychological components of behavior. It is helpful
to realize that such terms exist, if for nothing else
but to reassure yourself that there is a basis for
some things we'll be discussing.

You'll find the terminology "eschew obfuscation"
listed near the end of part one of this manual, to
help make things more understandable, and lots
of other tips and examples.

Wits' End Dog Training is accustomed to criticism
from a variety of pet professionals. Holding different
values is not a crime, although sometimes it might
be considered a sin.

Consider how you would feel if you'd spent years
studying at our best universities, only to be shown
by a simple, uneducated dog trainer, that your
education is obsolete, that you've missed the point?

You'd respond, "What degrees do you hold?"

Forty years ago this trainer chose no longer to train
dogs according to the techniques available. It simply
wasn't worth doing. One experience of souring the
spirit of a beautiful, troubled dog, while following the
best advice available from the most accredited
sources anywhere, was enough for him.

Today, the state of the art in dog training industry
remains about the same. Modern dog training has
undergone little change since its inception in this
country as a sport at the end of World War II,
except to have gotten WORSE with the advent of
the pronged spiked pinch choke and shock and
aversive spray devices.

The methodology was and still is based on the
military model utilized on the Nazis' command dogs.
Fortunately, this trainer's family, being in the kennel
business, provided many more troubled dogs that
didn't have the alternative to decline training.

Necessity, being the mother of invention, prevailed.

There had to be a better way. I was at my Wits'
End, still am, and now you can be too! We will
never recommend seeking outside assistance or
books, abuse or use of unnatural, artificial, or
abusive training aids like electric shock collars,
choke collars, spiked collars, scolding, staring,
glaring, shaking, reprimanding, finger pointing,
gourmet food recipes used for bribery, threats,
intimidation, physical force, sharp commands,
punishing sounds, punishment of any kind, or
deviation from the Wits' End Dog Training Method.

It only takes one lapse of judgment to subvert the
deep trust established through our work. Food
bribes, or treats associated with training, although
generally endorsed by traditional trainers, is strictly
against everything we are trying to impart through
our unconventional approach.

Getting results at the expense of the higher attributes
of learning is, we think, ignorant and dangerous.
Any time your dog is more concerned with his gut
than your desires, you could be the next course
on the menu. We're training companion animals,
not pigs.

For obvious reasons, there are very few training
aids we can endorse. The head halter is good if
used properly. The product called Gentle Leader
is NOT gentle, nor does it lead.The instructions
for fitting the device INTENDS to force control
and HURT when "necessary."

There are many more reasons that we cannot
endorse any books or publications regarding
training tips. We recommend not reading other
training guides until you fully comprehend this
method.

Dogs, being pack animals, not unlike the human
family, have rules dictated by nature. We will
capitalize on their natural instincts, and, knowing
the nature of the beast, be prepared to anticipate
all of your dog's options to cooperate or subvert
your efforts to control him.

Your dog's job is to oppose you. Your job is to
negotiate then compromise; ask for more, then
give up; move to one of the appropriate defaults,
and then return to your original desired request.

Canine logic and strategy dictate our methodology.

Everything has a rational outcome that is arrived
at through the process of elimination of undesired
possibilities through a default system. Using this
approach we eliminate stress, confrontation, and
otherwise negative influences in the training session.

All we need to do is to establish a smooth flow of
information and allow thoughts to flow fluidly,
maintaining an open dialogue without becoming
focused on the desired command, or getting stuck
in a confrontation.

You are going to teach your dog an entire concept,
not just a simple, trite command. We are going to
obtain strict discipline without giving the sense of
being strict or disciplinarian. The Wits' End Dog
Training Method breaks ordinary dog training rules,
not a dog's spirit.

PART I
1. METHODOLOGY

2. There are a few prerequisites to obtain results
that will last a lifetime: Nothing will be accomplished
without first building the foundation. Addressing
behavioral problems without establishing these
fundamentals will waste time and further entrench
misbehavior.

Causes of failure may be:

Over training, or practicing training sessions longer
than directed. Our weekly (later monthly) training
session is no longer than 15 minutes. Daily training
(may be every other day) sessions take only four
minutes.

Training your dog in his backyard (don't make him
work in his "free area").

Not taking the time to be certain of your next move.
Not taking time to plan your best move.
"Telegraphing" your next move.
Misreading your dog's intent.
Interrupting your dog's thought process.
Physical contact of any kind while he's thinking.

Failure to praise every eye contact your dog makes
with you (every time your dog glances over toward
you requires spontaneous non-physical praise).

Generally not understanding the psychology
involved with teaching your dog to think, learn,
rationalize, and solve problems.

Being goal-oriented is a major error. We have a
methodology based on defaults. We expect you
will find some refreshing and incredible differences
in our system, quite opposed to what have been
formerly held as traditional truths.

Don't make learning this information any more
difficult than need be. Just relax, and don't try to
commit this text to memory. You'll probably learn
what's important on your first review of this material.

There are some confusing thoughts that will become
clear as you proceed. Then you may go back to
the specific techniques to practice, so don't try to
get it all at once.

Don't expect your pet professionals to understand
or accept our philosophy, we've tried. We don't
accept theirs. Just understand they are only doing
what they were taught.

Follow our system, not their logic. Once your dog
recognizes your goals, you lose. Lose? YES.
Everything is different at  Wits' End.

Surely you'd think we'd want our dogs to recognize
our goals, but does Macey's tell Gimbel's?! We
want our dogs to work for us.

To work this system, one must expect things to
happen, allow for errors, and regard any effort,
even an attempt to leave, as positive effort. You
will soon learn that any effort or energy, even
negative, can be converted to positive.

Be consistent, and never try to make things happen.

Dogs don't like to be made to do things for no good
reason. Dogs are much smarter than most trainers
and behaviorists believe. The ability to think,
rationalize, and solve problems are learned qualities.

Most of your dog's mistakes are an integral part of
learning, and are welcomed here, as an opportunity
to teach and provide a positive learning experience.

1A. Common Misunderstandings

It seems everybody tells their dog "don't do this or
that." What he hears is only "do this or that." Dogs
don't understand the concept of "don't do something."

You'd communicate more clearly with your dog by
simply distracting him with a very brief, random
sound and telling him he's a good boy.

It's going to take you a while before you feel
comfortable telling your dog he's doing good,
when you've just caught him doing something
wrong.

There is a system here.

The problem is that most people think like people.
Most dogs think like dogs. It's all explained in the
chapter entitled "Learn Today."

That you can't correct a mistake after it has
happened is another fallacy that will be dispelled
in the chapter entitled "Using Sound To Break Bad
Behavior."

One of the most common behavioral problems we
hear is when your dog barks incessantly at people
approaching your home. Most people find themselves
fighting a losing battle, trying to stop their dog from
barking aggressively at the door, fence, window, etc...

Here's the scenario. Dog says: "Warning, warning,
there's someone out there!"

You say: "Stop That Noise!"

Dog says: "But there is someone out there!"

You say: "Get Off The Door, You're Scratching It."

Dog Says: "They're Coming In! You're Not Listening
To Me."

You Say: "You're Not Listening To Me! You're
Scratching The Door! They're trying to come In!"

Dog Says: "I'll Save You! Just Let Me Through This Door!"

You say: "Now I'm really mad! You're scratching
the door! I Can't Have Them In With You Acting Like This!"

Dog Says: "Me Too! I'm Really Mad! Just Let Me Through
This Door! I Can't Have Them In If They Are So Upsetting To You!"

The situation continues to worsen; as the dog does
what he knows is best for his home and you. The
dialogue just continues to become more confusing.

The more concerned you become about his behavior,
the more he believes you are worried about these
unknown persons. Your upset will make him protective.
He doesn't realize that it's his behavior you are
worried about.

Here's HOWE the scenario should be:

Dog says: "Warning, warning, warning, there's someone out there!"

You say: "GOOD BOY! Who's there?"

Dog says: "I don't know, but you'd better be careful!"

You say: "Good boy, I can see them, it's friends."

Dog Says: "I Don't Think So, You'd Better Be Careful!"

You say: "I can see who it is, they are friends, you're a good
boy."

Dog says: "Cool! Maybe we'll have tea and biscuits!"

Most dogs are simply not validated for their efforts
at doing their job, and so many problems are a
result of just such misunderstandings.

We have ways of dealing with all kinds of behavior,
those we can observe, as well as those that (in most
cases,) occur when we are not present. Most trainers
agree that you cannot correct your dog after the fact.

Their logic is that dogs can't remember mistakes they
committed earlier, perhaps only earlier today.

If this is the case, then how do you think dogs can
remember a "lost" toy, hidden under a piece of furniture
many weeks after it had gotten misplaced? Do you
really want to believe he cannot remember doing
something mischievous earlier today?

Here are two more misunderstandings about dogs:

"He would never bite." Although most dogs never do
bite, you can never be sure that any dog, no matter
how well you know him, will never bite.

"Wagging tails are an indicator of mood or temper."
Wrong again! You can determine some information
by observing a dog's tail movement, but don't count
on it to tell you about his intent.

Some things you'll be able to determine are how
comfortable he is with the command or situation
he's in. If the tail is kept tightly underneath, this
means he's very uncomfortable, nervous, or scared.

If the tail curves around the flanks when he's sitting
or lying, this shows he's somewhat comfortable.
If it is straight out behind him, this indicates he is
very comfortable and eager to be working with what
we're asking of him. If he is sitting on it, with a slight
curl at the base, this indicates he's in the process of
learning something.

1B. Learn Today!

Today, you will learn to use and become proficient
with the "recall" or "come" command, through the
installation of a conditioned reflex. Conditioned
reflex can be used to teach any command, but for
our purposes at this time, it will only be used for
"recall," or "come," as it is not useful in the
development of higher learning and thought processes.

How Dogs Learn

Dogs can learn and UN-learn any behavior in four
properly conducted repetitions. Taken to its extreme,
these four repetitions should be performed in four
different places with four different but similar situations.

EXAMPLE:

The first time your dog hears a new command,
he probably has no idea what is being requested.
When he hears the command a second time, he
begins to compr     ehend.Thethirdtime,hefully
understands, but dogs being dogs, he is going to
resist the new command.

This hesitation is called a learning plateau.

Learning plateaus require a few moments to sort
and file information, not unlike your computer. I
get easily frustrated with these computers, because
unlike humans and animals, I expect a command to
my computer to be followed immediately. But even
at the speed of light, commands need to be sorted
out to go to memory.

Just like your computer asks, "do you really want
to delete this file?" your dog does the same. This
usually happens on the third request, or instance,
of trying to teach or break a behavior.

So, when your dog thinks about the new behavior
being learned or unlearned, praise (non-physical
praise) and patience, are required during the few
moments it takes to correctly file this new information.

However, once again, although your dog may
fully understand what you are trying to accomplish
now that you've demonstrated this behavior three
times, means he's going to try to go against your
desire! His job is to oppose you.

He needs to think things out during the third request.
This moment requires praise, regardless of what
the dog is thinking.

He's going to ponder the idea, then glance at you.
Back to the idea, now thinking of you. Then think
about the idea, and then think about you. Follow
his thinking, and re-enforce it with praise.

Non-physical praise only.

You cannot second-guess what he might be
thinking at this time. Presume nothing. Allow his
choice to dictate your next move. Chances are,
he's going to continue one last try at having his
own way.

There are only two choices he can make. He's
either going to do it correctly, for which you'll
continue praise, and wait for the forthcoming
opportunity to test him out, or, he's going to
do it wrong, for which you'll continue to praise
until you are sure he got it wrong, for which
you'll perform the correct move to re-enforce
the desired behavior, while continuing to praise,
non physical, of course.

Using this system, you cannot go wrong. Simply
praise whatever he might be thinking. This process
of elimination gives us the opportunity to allow your
dog to progress at his own speed. The third time
your dog is given a command, he'll probably do
it incorrectly just to see if you are going to be
consistent. Once that has been done, the fourth
occasion will completely "delete" or "open" the new "file."

2. GETTING STARTED The equipment you will need:

A 6 ft. leather or web lead. Nylon or rope may slide
through the fingers, causing a burn or blister. A
chain may do likewise, and is too heavy, making
the dog feel that you are pulling.

A flat collar.
A twenty-foot lead, long line, or rope.
Four empty but clean soda cans, slightly crushed
so as to be "square" to prevent them rolling and
creating a prolonged sound, with six pennies
inside each, with tape over the opening.

A utility bag for carrying equipment.
Lastly, you'll need an open mind and a desire to
improve the quality of life for your pet.

2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling

Failure to handle your lead properly is usually
the first mistake that leads to your next and
more crucial mistakes.

The lead must be handled in a casual and relaxed
manner to avoid transmitting tension and triggering
the opposition reflex in your dog.

Start by opening your hand with the thumb extended
and palm facing you. Hang the loop or handle
over the thumb, and gently close fist around both
lengths of the handle.

Close your thumb down over the second joint of
the index finger. Pull down so the handle is snug
over your thumb as you maintain a gentle grasp
around the handle. This is a safety. If your dog
should pull hard, the handle will not accidentally
slip through your palm.

If it is imminent that you will lose balance and
fall, opening the fist will release you and prevent
a fall.

Next, take the length of your lead, and bring it
upward, placing it under the fingers and in contact
with both sides of the handle in your closed palm.

You should now be able to pull or slide the running
length through the palm to make adjustments. Drop
your arm down to your side. The length should
break just at your kneecap if you're dog were in
the heel position.

Ordinarily, the heel position is with your dog on
your left side, and the lead will be held in your
right hand. Your left hand must never (until you
are trained) hold the lead while in the heel position,
except to collect the length to return it to your
right hand.

The length of your lead shall break just below
your left kneecap. If you need to work your dog
on your right side, or from in front, or at a distance,
the lead will be in your left hand. (If you are going
to heel your dog on your right side, for our purposes,
you will need to make the appropriate adjustments
with regard to left and right signals, turns, etc.
I recommend not doing so at this time, unless
physical needs dictate).

The heel position means your dog's shoulder is
at your knee. It does not matter whether he is
standing, sitting, walking, lying down, or jumping
straight up in the air! In fact, if I could get all of
my dogs to heel while jumping straight up in the
air, I would be ecstatic. If your dog's shoulders
are aligned at your knee and he is facing the
same direction as you, that's the heel position.

Trivial as this may seem, nothing in the Wits'
End Dog Training Method (at this point) is arbitrary.

Pay close attention to the above details. Notice
that the running length of the lead should easily
flow through the closed fingers. The arm should
hang relaxed at your side. Keep your back straight;
don't lean over your dog. The length of the lead
should break at your kneecap.

Never allow the length of your lead to loop over
or between any fingers, as this will create a
block, creating tension in your hand, causing
a bend at the elbow, creating tension on your
dog's collar, triggering the opposition reflex,
thus defeating our method.

There should never be any tension applied to
your dog's collar. A flat collar, one that does not
choke, is required to prevent unintentional
constriction or pulling. If you expect your dog to
try to slip out of his collar, you may "back it up"
with a choke collar to prevent his slipping free.

One word of caution: you should never need to
apply enough tension to cause your dog to back
up and slip his flat collar. Whenever pulling occurs,
just immediately give slack into the lead (without
stepping forward) and follow with "good boy."

Tension on the collar must be released instantly.
If pulling continues, you may need to pull your
dog back just one inch, just enough to gain the
slack necessary to give it back to him, while
praising.

This technique and a practice exercise will be
covered in detail in the trouble shooting section.

Here's a brief aside you may appreciate. Once
in a training session, I was instructing a male
student regarding how to praise his terribly out
of control Cocker Spaniel. He told me flat out
that he could not "do that" (meaning praise his
pet as I requested).

This had happened once before, that a rather
"macho" student of mine refused to follow
directions at the onset of our lesson. As I sadly
began to collect my equipment, I asked, "Why
can't you speak to your pet as I request?" He
lowered his eyes, and mumbled that he just
couldn't talk to his dog "like that."

In desperation I asked, "Well, how do you talk
to your dog?" He said that he had a very special
relationship with his critter, and he always talked
to her in a particularly loving manner. "Show me
how you do talk to her," I said. At this point, he
began a litany of cooing and prose that in
remembrance still causes me to choke with laughter!

I realized then that my concern was for naught,
and my efforts would be valued and appreciated.
So feel free to use your own choice of words for
such commands as "praise," or "take a break,"
"you're free," "back to work," and even other
commands such as heel, sit, stay, etc.

Contrary to customary belief, we know that dogs
do understand words. We do not anthropomorphize
(give human qualities to animals), but we do
recognize a dichotomy of cognitive intelligence
based on our experience and empirical evidence,
versus traditional ideology.

This sets the Wits' End Dog Training Method apart,
for which we will remain eternally grateful. One point
of caution, however: be careful not to use words
such as "O.K." in any command sequence, as it
is so commonly used, you may find yourself
accidentally releasing or otherwise inadvertently
signaling your dog.

2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex?

Dr. Ian Pavlov discovered conditioned reflex in
the first decade of this century. He came upon
this discovery quite by accident while working
with some dogs in an experiment for human psychology.

He noticed that some of the dogs coming to his
research laboratory began to drool in anticipation
of the food rewards that were going to be offered
during his experiment, even prior to entering the
laboratory.

This piqued his curiosity to the point that he
needed to see what was going on. He invited
some dogs to stay in the lab for this study. No
doubt you have heard of "Pavlov's bell."

The dogs were presented with some liver while
a bell was struck. After several occasions of this
conditioning, the bell was struck without the
promised treat.

The dogs naturally got excited anticipating the
liver, and began to salivate (drool). Thus came
the discovery of conditioned reflex.

Conditioned reflex is just that. Conditioning, which
simply put means the same stimuli, presented in
the same manner, so as to be exact; and reflex,
that is to say, a reaction over which one has no
control. Be aware, that in order to meet these
criteria successfully, each element must be
adhered to precisely.

That is to say, the exact same treat presented
with the exact same sound, in the exact same
manner each time. Be aware that we are not
suggesting that you use any food for our
purposes, as it would be contra-indicated.

2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and
Teach Any Command in Minutes

Just as a child steps into the street without being
aware of the meaning of the blast of a car horn,
and continues on his way in oblivion, it takes
experiences to become conditioned. I'll bet that
when you step off of a curb, and hear a car horn
blow, your head spins both ways at once, as you
jump back, looking for the impending accident.

The difference is conditioning.

This is going to require a few minutes of practice,
without the presence of your dogs. It would be
preferable to do this with any family members
available, but may be successfully done alone.

What we need to do is develop a sense of timing.

Here is where the previously called for cans with
the pennies will come in. Have the cans rinsed
clean and dry. Insert six pennies in each can,
tape the top shut, and crush the sides of the cans,
so as to make them square to prevent the cans
from rolling, to avoid creating a prolonged sound.

! Silence is Golden !

It is imperative that you handle these cans silently!
At any time, should these training aids accidentally
create a sound, praise must accompany the event.

This will tell the dog you were not addressing his
behavior, and that he should disregard the incident.
When more than one dog is present, and any dog
is being addressed through the use of sound, each
dog must be individually praised and acknowledged
with direct eye contact and non-physical praise.

Praise Must Always Accompany Sound, with one
exception. That is, when a behavior is being
addressed after the fact. When you have discovered
a behavior that occurred when you were not present,
this would be the only time the sound shall be
presented without verbal praise. The details are
covered later in "using sound to break bad behavior."

To teach your dog the "recall" or "come" command,
we must first create a phrase, and select a "key"
or "cue" word in that phrase. Example: "your dog's
name, come, good boy." In this phrase, we shall
select "come" as our "key" or "cue" word.

The objective is to create a brief sound exactly
on the "key" or "cue" word. The phrase must be
spoken with no pauses, commas, or breaths in
between words. The phrase must be spoken
quickly, in an even-tempered tone of voice.

The sound will be applied ONLY on the KEY or
CUE words ONLY on the second and fourth
requests. In other words, give him the opportunity
to respond correctly on each first request following
a command given with a sound cue.

The second request must be accompanied by
sound. The next request would be treated as a
first request. You'll see later.

The first instance of any phrase you will use
must be presented without the accompaniment
of sound. If your dog should respond properly
to this first request, "your dog's name, come,
good boy," praise him immediately, even before
he begins to move.

Any response, the twitch of an ear or tail, a
shuffle of a foot, a brief glance, any reaction at
all, to any command, always requires spontaneous,
instant, continuous praise, for five to fifteen seconds
or however long your dog is thinking about your
request (even if he' thinking of leaving!).

Continue praising constantly until your dog comes
all the way to you, even if it requires that you
move backward as you continue to speak praise
and coax, even plead or beg, but do not repeat
the command phrase.

As long as you are moving backward and he is
coming forward, he's still coming. In this example,
let's say the dog properly (maybe coincidentally)
performed. However, that does not mean that he
will always respond.

Remember, a conditioned reflex means that your
dog has ABSOLUTELY NO CHOICE BUT TO
RESPOND PROPERLY!

Later, when you are done with all of the intricacies
involved, test it out like this: Find yourself and
your trained dog in a comfortable situation, like
yourself sitting in your easy chair and him
snoozing by the fireplace.

Ask him to come in the proscribed manner. When
he gladly jumps up and sticks his big wet nose in
your face, pat him, and tell him he's free.

Let him resume his leisurely pursuits and call him
again. Repeat this until maybe on the fourth or
fifth occasion that you call him, when he believes
there is no point to getting up and coming all the
way over to you just so you can tell him he's
cool and that he may resume his pursuits.

Just as soon as he refuses your trivial request
to come to you, follow the procedure to make
him come.

Remember: any time that your dog does not
respond the first time you ask him to come,
regard this as a major behavioral problem and
take the appropriate action to remedy the situation
(reinstall the come command as a conditioned
reflex during the FPLX).

So now we must try again to set up the situation
whereby your dog refuses to perform a request.

Once again, repeat your (1st request) "dog's
name, come, good boy." If he does not spin
immediately to respond, instantly repeat the
phrase with the accompanying sound:
*(upper case denotes command with sound,
not shouting. All commands much be given in
an even tempered tone): your (2nd request)
"dog's name, COME, good boy," this time,
using the can, by giving it one brief, hard,
downward shake (not a rattle), and only
EXACTLY on the "key" or "cue" word, in this
example, COME.

Let the sound from the can emphasize your "key"
or "cue" word, not your voice. Your voice must
always be used in a calm, even-tempered, never
commanding or authoritative tone.

If any response at all (even an obvious attempt
to run away) occurs, instant praise, once again,
is required. For this example, let's say your dog
chose to continue away from you.

Immediately repeat your phrase without the
accompanying sound and your (3rd request)
"dog's name, come, good boy." At this point,
you might figure that the dog would not respond.

While this may be so, we do not know for sure.
Observation is required. He may have experienced
the desired conditioning from even just that one
instance of presenting the "key" or "cue" word
in association with the sound.

For this reason, we presented our command on
this, your third request, without the conditioning
sound. If any response occurred, again, even a
seemingly negative response like running further
away, praise is required.

If you're certain your dog is not responding, on
this, his third request, the request will then once
again be repeated, for the fourth occasion, this
time, while presenting the sound from another
direction, preferably beyond your dog, and
exactly timed to occur with the "key" or "cue" word.

SOUNDS MUST NEVER BE REPEATED FROM
THE SAME POSITION TWICE IN SUCCESSION!
In this instance you will repeat the command phrase,
your (4th request) (toss can now) "dog's name,
COME, good boy" and toss your can beyond (not
at, but beyond) your dog, so as to cause the can
to strike the ground exactly on time with the "key"
or "cue" word.

This requires just a little bit of skill, because the
can must be ejected several moments prior to
repeating the command phrase, (because of the
distance), so as to strike the ground exactly at
the same time as our "key" or "cue" word, and
the entire sequence must occur as quickly as
possible, *and, the can must be carefully tossed
so as not to sound accidentally from your hand
while being ejected and you must avoid causing
the can to tumble through the air causing
inappropriately timed sounds.

Yes, I agree, things sounded simple enough until
all of this first and third without sound, and second
and fourth with sound stuff. Relax, we'll try this
again, in "real time," and then you may try to practice
on your own for a few minutes.

Let's run through the command sequence as if
your dog were not cooperating. We'll use UPPER
CASE to denote command accompanied with sound.

Practice this while not in the presence of your dogs.
Read it aloud, and actually using the cans. Set
a target about 10 feet away to practice your throw
on the fourth command. Start now: take a deep
breath, hold it, read aloud: "dog's name, come,
good boy"- (next create sound on COME) "dog's
name, COME, good boy"-(repeat quickly) "dog's
name, come, good, boy"-(toss can now) "dog's
name, COME, good boy." Breathe!

See? It's easier than it sounded the first time.
Try this until you've got the timing down so the
"key" or "cue" words and sounds are in sync.

If any response occurs, instant, spontaneous,
constant praise must follow, until your dog is
close enough to pat. Remember, even begging
and pleading are O.K., as long as you do not
move toward him and you do not repeat the
command.

Repeating commands will cause the dog to
cause you to continue repeating commands.

But are we not repeating the command in the
exercise? Yes, we do repeat the command,
but never without punctuating the command
on its first repetition, which will fix that command
into the reflex system. As soon as the conditioned
reflex is installed, the command may not be ever
needed more than once.

That's it! And it happens that fast!

Over some period of time the conditioning may
deteriorate for a variety of reasons. Sometimes,
calling your dog in a more casual manner might
deteriorate the conditioning.

Not following through with enforcing, or not
properly reinforcing correct performance of the
command could deteriorate the conditioned reflex.

The most common reason would likely be repeating
commands. Dogs thrive on the extra attention,
and will keep you entertained for countless hours,
or for as long as you will repeat commands.

Once any command is issued, it must be completed.

We have a system that will guide your dog's correct
performance, or provide you with a strategic withdrawal.

You are the one in charge; so therefore, you may
change your mind, as you so desire. We'll show
you how to insure that you come out looking smarter
than your dog.

The first time your dog fails to respond properly
to the "recall" or "come " command, regard that
as a major behavioral problem.

Make the effort to correctly reinforce the command
during the ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise,"
explained in detail later on.

Of course, in our last example here, the plan was
to perform the command sequence as quickly as
possible, with no pauses, just as though your dog
were not responding and you were correctly
operating the sounds.

Well, let's continue, and presume that our dog did
not respond after the fourth request. At this point,
your job is to turn and walk determinedly away,
without looking back, speaking continuously and
praising him without breaking your stride, without
looking back, until you can pat him.

You may ask, "What leads you to believe Rover
is going to suddenly respond by following us when
we turn and walk away?" Easy! The training in our
next two exercises is going to instill the concept
in one's mind.

First comes the "Hot and Cold Exercise," which
will get the dog settled and paying attention to you.
Then, the ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise"
which is the single most important training technique
available.

The ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise," combined
with the installation of the conditioned reflex to the
"recall" or "come" command, will give you unimaginable
control of your dog.

You could start with a strange dog, and in fifteen
minutes of work, have him responding just as
though you've been "good buddies" for a "dog's age!"

Once again, things seem simple enough, so we'll
throw in a little extra. Initially, just getting Rover to
come in response to the "recall" command, close
enough to be able to pat him, would seem to be
sufficient.

While that may be good enough for most people,
the Wits' End Dog Training Method promises and
requires strict and exacting discipline. For now,
in this initial phase of training, it would be counter
productive to be any more exacting than to just
be satisfied with a brief pat.

However, after this initial phase of training is
complete (maybe just one session of work, but
do follow directions, and do this four times),
you will be expected to cause your dog to sit
directly in front of you during the "recall" or "come"
exercise.

This will be extremely important in the "big picture."
But, for now, we do not need to be so exact. The
hard part is done!

3. The "Hot And Cold" Exercise

Remember the children's game in which an object
is selected, and the one who is "it" is directed to
find same based on directions of "hot or cold" to
indicate proximity to the object? We are going to
do the same with your dog's attention, with you
being the selected object.

This "Hot and Cold" exercise takes about two
minutes to perform. Done properly, this exercise
will have the effect of shutting off his attention to
anything other than you. This practice should be
used any time your dog becomes distracted or is
not keeping his attention focused on you.

Our objective is to cause your dog always to
have one ear and one eye focused on you. If
this is done correctly, your dog will end up
directly in front of you, relaxed, and waiting for
your next idea.

To begin, ask your dog if he "wants to go to work,"
tell him "good boy," as you show him your lead,
and lean back from him. This will help command
his attention up and toward you, without focusing
on putting on the lead.

We want to be sure not to give the impression that
we're assaulting him with the lead! Bend at the
knees, keeping your back straight as you affix your
lead to his collar, gently talking, but not physically
touching any more than necessary. Tell him he's
a good boy as you head out the door.

As soon as you have cleared the area in front of
your door, come to a halt. As your dog moves
forward and back, around and in front of you,
allow your lead to flow smoothly through your
hands, the free hand reaching out to collect
your lead at its mid point, and place it in the palm
with the handle to keep it out from under your dog's
feet as he moves in towards you, playing it out as
he moves away, collecting it as he returns.

Just get used to the feeling of allowing your lead to
flow through your hands, collecting it again, and
allow it to feed out as your dog moves. Be sure
not to pull or allow tension on the collar.

Do not lean toward your dog or move toward him,
as this will cause the opposite effect, consequently
subordinating ourselves and subverting our efforts.

If your dog looks toward you, you'll tell him he's a
good boy. Always, every time, no exceptions ever,
no matter what, when, or where, if your dog looks
toward you, even a brief momentary glance out of
the corner of his eye, that requires praise.

This rule will never vary. *If necessary maybe
squatting down will bring him in close, but we don't
want to call or force him in.

After just two or three minutes the dog should be
settled and paying attention to you with one eye
and one ear and his tail gently swaying. If this
exercise requires more time, that's fine too. Spend
twenty or thirty minutes in one spot, just calming the
dog and gaining his trust and commanding his attention
through the intermittent praise.

4. The "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" (May
Be Done Solo)

Before starting the "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise, you should perform the "Hot and Cold"
exercise to get your dog's attention focused on you.

Because of its simplicity, the "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise is often discounted or ignored. By the way,
you don't need your entire family to do this exercise.
You may do it with some family members, or even by
yourself.

The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise is equally
important as the "recall" or "come" command.
It is the basis for your total relationship with your
dog, your success or failure as a team, but its
subtlety is deceiving.

It requires about fifteen minutes to perform on
the first occasion, about twelve minutes for the
second occasion, about eight minutes on the
third occasion, and no more than six to eight
minutes on successive occasions.

This exercise must be done with the entire family
on four successive occasions, preferably in four
different locations. (The ideal scenario would be
to perform the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise
four times at the first location, four times at the
second location, four times at the third location,
and four times at the fourth location).

Thereafter, this exercise should be used as needed,
that is, any time your dog seems not to pay close
attention to you, or seems easily distracted, or
any time any behavior problems arise.

It is a good practice to do on a weekly basis (just
once, at one location is fine) after the initial series,
later, on a monthly basis, kind of like a "tune up."

If you've noticed a pattern developing here, you're
right: Dogs learn on the basis of four properly
performed repetitions. These applications should
be performed in four different locations or training
situations.

You are going to be walking with all of the immediate
members of your family, and your dog, in a large
square.

What you will need is an area large enough to
encompass a twenty-foot square area, including
additional space to provide clearance for the length
of your twenty-foot lead. In other words, you will
need a 60'x60' area.

If it is impossible to find such a large area, you
could get by with less space. Once again,
although training should not be conducted in
your dog's own back yard, this exercise and
"COME" ARE exceptions to the rule, but not
for the initial or regular practice.

Do this in your yard after the dog understands
the principles in neutral territory.

Insofar as it is necessary to do these exercises
in his back yard, you will find it counterproductive
if over used.

If you are with the members of your family, gather
in a close-knit group, and proceed to walk as one
unit from your starting point, at the rate of about
one step per second, forward, for the distance of
20 feet.

Do not look at your dog. If he moves along with
you, tell him he's a good boy. Everybody must
speak, all together. If he looks up at you, that
requires praise.

If he does not follow the group, that's fine. Every
time he comes toward the family, praise him.
If he wanders off, that's fine too. As he returns
to you, praise. Turn left at your first 20-foot mark,
and proceed slowly on the second leg of this square.

Each time he looks up at you, praise. If he wanders,
that's fine; do not speak to him unless he is returning
toward the family pack.

Notice where the turns are, and try to find each
corner of this square as you continue walking
slowly to your next corner and turn left again.

As you proceed around this imaginary square,
simply praise him as he returns to the family
pack, and ignore him as he wanders away.

You will notice that as you continue around
this square, your dog will begin to stay closer
to the family pack.

On about your fourth trip around the square,
your dog should be fairly comfortable maintaining
a close proximity to the group.

When this is so, simply come to a halt at any
corner of our square. Face each other, and
speak amongst yourselves.

Your dog should be ignored, unless he looks
directly up at the family, for which praise is
required. If he comes close enough, a pat
would be in order.

Remain at this corner, chatting casually, until
our subject dog joins the group, but for no longer
than two minutes.

When Rover settles next to the family, give him
just another moment or two to get nice and
comfortable. Now, altogether and on cue, without
telegraphing this to our subject dog, move forward
all together, slowly toward your next corner.

As soon as your dog starts to get up to follow,
everyone must sound off with praise, and
everyone must stop praising just as soon as
your dog's attention wanders, or he moves
away toward the end of his 20-foot lead.

As before, come to a halt at your next corner,
face each other and converse casually amongst
yourselves until your dog joins the group, settles,
or gets comfortable, and then as before, move
forward toward the next corner as a group.

Repeat this at each corner. That's it!

Now if you'd like, you can get a jump on the
advanced work in Part 2 by simply walking
as a group to the opposite corner of the
square taking four steps forwards, turn left
for two steps, turn right and continue four
steps, turn left for two, right for four, and
finish up with a 180 degree turn to your left,
and return to the opposite corner in the same
manner, completing that with a 180 turn to
the right.

Now, the reason we covered the "recall" or
"come" command at the very beginning, is
because during the "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise," you will likely have several opportunities
to install the conditioned reflex.

At some point during this "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise, I expect your dog will go all the way off
to the end of his 20-foot lead, and not care to
follow the family or, he may become distracted
looking around at whatever might interest him.

If he gets involved smelling a spot, or looking at
something, and your pack has moved to the point
where your lead is becoming taut, stop.

Do not pull.

Turn facing your dog, and use the cans to condition
him to "come" at this time. One member of the
family should be responsible for working the
command, but every member should participate
with the praise as your dog is coming in on the
"recall."

Also, if it is necessary to back up to help to coax
him to come to you, the entire family should also
participate in backing up.

If these directions have been followed properly,
the obvious difference in your dog's demeanor
and attitude will be stunning.

5. Practicing The "Recall" or "Come" Command

After completing the pre-requisite ""Family Pack
Leadership" exercise, any area is good to
complete training to install this conditioned reflex.

Note: to ensure that the "recall" or "come"
command is properly installed, ideally you should
achieve four perfect recalls on lead during each
training session, in four different locations.

It is vital to achieve this before practicing the
"recall" or "come" command off lead.

The "recall" or "come" command may be practiced
on lead anywhere, off lead in a fenced area, or
inside the house, provided there are no hiding
places that your dog may get into or under....

Let's not defeat ourselves by attempting to do
something prematurely-that is, not properly
installing the command prior to attempting it in
a more difficult situation, or a command we know
he is going to resist, without having done all of
the basics, prior to attempting to tempt fate!

If you know your dog has never come to you
after he has gone under the couch to hide, don't
try calling him out from under there, or even in
that room, because you know that as soon as
you call him, he's going to try to escape to the
security of where you can't get him, until you
have accomplished the preliminaries, and you
know he is properly conditioned in at least four
other places.

Let's say we're dealing with a real sharp dog,
one that knows just how to manipulate each
of the family, one against the other, each in turn.

You know the kind I'm talking about, the one
who's just "so cute," he takes advantage of
any opportunity to get his way, usually ending
with a fight between family members. Got one
like that? Just because we're gentle and humane,
does not mean we can't be vindictive.

Let's get ready to burst his bubble!

Divide yourselves into two groups, equally
divided between those whom he favors. Each
group will have one can, and one person
responsible for operating the manipulation of
the sound cues.

Of course, the person in command will change,
as each individual takes his or her turn. Remember,
it is not necessary to have the person responsible
for issuing the command also responsible for
creating the sounds, unless they are proficient
at this technique.

Using the 20-foot lead, space yourselves 20 feet
apart. Observe carefully to determine which group
should issue the "recall" or "come" command, based
upon whomever he is least attentive towards.

Issue the requests to come as previously described.
In the event we need to pursue this command to its
fourth request, the second group will create the
sound on the fourth occasion, and one and all,
moving together will continue towards the group
issuing the command and lead the dog as a group
toward the individual issuing the command, until
completed upon being petted.

Spend a few moments socializing among you,
as a subterfuge, and then drift apart to repeat
this exercise as necessary.

This will have the effect of putting your dog at
the bottom of the ladder of the pecking order of
importance, and everyone else above, which
will take away his sense of being a peer, or
equal in importance, to any member of your
family.

Once again, as always, successfully repeat this
exercise at least four times with each individual,
and do so in four different places. If these exercises
are done properly, it should feel like you've got a
new dog at home, and he'd feel better fast, knowing
that everyone in his family is an appropriate leader.

6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex

Any command may be taught in the same manner
as you have just learned. Don't use this technique
indiscriminately. We can work several commands
at once, but right now while everyone is just getting
familiar with this new approach, and your dog is
still "upside-down" with the changes he's going
through, don't rush.

If your dog is used to being forced and punished,
it's likely to take a few sessions for him to believe
you've really changed your approach, dogs who
aren't used to begin treated gently are not comfortable
offering trust till you've proven your intent. One lapse
of judgement or correction will restimulate all the
previous mishandling and impede your progress.

Here is an example of a commonly desired
command that you will find useful. This example
is meant to more thoroughly show you the concept.

Any command, for any reason, in any circumstances,
can be substituted. But remember, we do not
want your dog to "do things," we want them to
learn things.

Conditioned reflex makes things happen, without
understanding. Use it sparingly, especially at the
beginning.

Let's say you want your pet to go in the other
room. You might select the phrase, "go in the
other room, good boy." You might select the
word room as your "key" or "cue" word.

Present your command in the described manner,
and continue on to your fourth request, and
present your sound appropriately beyond your
dog. At this, move forward while continuing to
praise him as you go into the ordered room,
and thoroughly praise and pat him upon completion.

But what if he did not follow through? Defer to
your "come" command, to which you know he
has been properly conditioned. Upon completing
the "come" command, you should find him there,
in the other room, with yourself.

Now, as you return to where you were when
you first issued your command to "go in the
other room good boy," and you should find
your dog satisfactorily waiting in the other room.

Don't be surprised if you find him right there with
you, in your original places. What went wrong?

Well, if he negotiated his way into the other room,
even if only to follow you on your fourth request,
did he not perform the original command?

Of course he did, but he immediately broke it
when you left that room.

What may be done when your dog breaks his
command? Also, what may be done when your
dog does a behavior you would rather he not do?

7. Use Sound To Break Bad Behavior!

The fastest, easiest, and most effective approach
is to recreate the undesired situation in a controlled
setting, and correctly use sound distractions with
praise to erase the misbehavior.

*Please note: any sound may be used as long
as it is variable in direction, that's why we use
the cans with pennies. The sound doesn't have
to be loud, only noticeable and instantly followed
by prolonged, exuberant non physical praise.

The source of sound must be brief, and you should
be able to present it from different directions on
each consecutive instance. Snapping fingers from
random directions (if you're close to the dog),
followed by praise, will work fine.

You may also use keys or whatever else comes
to mind, only remember that the dog should take
notice of the sound, not be intimidated by it.

If the dog doesn't "APPEAR" to notice the sound,
just follow through as though he did, cause he did if
you created it, and he'll become conditioned if
you simply follow the technique. You're not going
to SEE a lot of what we're working with, just follow
the techniques regardless of what your intuition sez.

Dogs can learn or unlearn almost anything in four
properly conducted repetitions. Taken to its extreme,
these four repetitions should be performed in four
different places, or with different people, dogs,
or whatever the "props" involved may be.

Understanding how dogs think, learn, and process
information is a stretch of the imagination for most
of us. It is obvious that animals know more about
psychology than we do.

They think, have a sense of humor, communicate,
tease, lie, steal, etc., just like any one else. But
they don't think like humans.

Dogs are limited to thinking like dogs. It's your
responsibility to think things out from their
perspective and try to use good judgment.

Be consistent. Dogs get confused if you're not
consistent.

Now that you are getting familiar with teaching
a command through conditioned reflex, you can
use similar techniques to stop or break any
behavior whatsoever.

Using the cans *(or other source of sound so long
as it is brief, and so long as it can be presented
from different directions), on each consecutive
instance, are all that you need to do to break any
behavior.

Simply create the sound, and follow through with
praise! It's that simple. Any behavior can be
stopped or broken, simply by creating a sound,
and praising immediately.

Following the technique for a few successive
repetitions will quickly extinguish the behavior,
not just interrupt it every time it keeps happening.

We're looking for total 100% perfect behavior.

The secret is to allow the undesired behavior to
begin again, and simply present the sound from
another direction, and follow through with praise.

Of course you have to understand how your dog
thinks and learns in order to achieve this successfully.

Each time you create a sound to stop or break a
behavior, you must praise him INSTANTLY and
continue for as long as he refrains from continuing
such behavior (at least until he no longer thinks
about that instance, usually ten or fifteen seconds),
and be prepared to create your sound distraction
and praise as soon as the behavior begins again.

This is the sticking point with so many trainers.
"HOWE COME should I praise this critter if he's
not even doing what I want?"

Remember, dogs do not think in human terms.
Most behavioral problems are simply a failure to
communicate clearly.

This is a scientific conditioning technique, and it
cannot fail if you use the techniques accordingly.

*Of course, you could continue correcting your
dog forever, as most trainers do. We do not
understand HOWE COME a trained dog needs
correction.

If he were trained, that should be the end of the
matter. This would imply that if a trained dog makes
a mistake, that this mistake is probably not an
accident, but rather, a failure of the training
methods used, not a challenge to your authority.

Perhaps this is why so many trainers seem to
enjoy correcting their dogs forever. I suppose
the real reason it is so difficult for us to share
the Wits' End Dog Training Method with other
pet professionals, is because we take all the
satisfaction out of "dealing with" an obstreperous
dog.

The problem is that corrections do not teach new
behavior. Our technique actually deletes errors
in your dog's thinking. It takes only a few moments
of time to permanently cancel or delete a behavior.

Correcting a behavior, rather than deleting it,
takes the entire lifetime of your dog. Make your
choice, to solve behavioral problems permanently
in a few moments, or get the dubious satisfaction
of correcting your dog's behavioral problems each
time they occur, for the entire life of your dog.

When you get tired of correcting, whining, nagging,
and arguing, start reading this manual again, follow
the directions, and change your values.

Change is difficult.

So let's go back to the prior example using the
"other room" command. As you prepare to exit
the room after having shown him the meaning of
your request, create a sound just before your dog
reaches the exit or doorway.

As always, instantly praise him. Continue to exit
the room yourself, and if he continues to try to
exit, create the sound behind him, and praise again.

If he successfully exits the room against your
command, simply repeat the original command
"go in the other room good boy." Of course, this
will be treated as a new request, to be performed
according to the progression of events as required.

In other words, you must pay attention to the last
instance in which sound was used, and try to insure
that in the next instance, the sound comes from
the appropriate source even from day in to day
out, one day to the next, never vary the routine.

In other words, if your dog went into the "other
room" on his first request without sound, perhaps
strictly as a coincidence, then, after you've tried
to correct him from leaving, that instance would
require the application of sound with your next
request, which in actuality, would be his second
request to "go in the other room good boy."

To review:

First request, "Go in the other room, good boy."
Second request, "Go in the other ROOM good boy"
Third request, "Go in the other room, good boy"

Let's say he accomplished the request properly.
When he violates the command, your next request
to send him back there would be, in actuality, his
fourth request, requiring sound on this command.

If you are not thoroughly confused at this point,
I'm surprised. Here's the rest of the secret:
The sequence of events never starts over again,
but always continues from the last instance in
which the sound was used.

It is imperative to try to remember the last occasion
in which your dog was given a command. For
example, let's say he's out in the back yard.

You call him to come in, and he fails to respond.
So you reach for the can, and repeat your request
accompanied with one hard downward shake to
create sound. Naturally, your dog will respond on
this occasion.

Next time that he is out in the yard-even if it's the
next day-and he fails to respond when you ask
him to come in, you've got to try to remember
when it was, that you last needed to re-enforce
the command, using sound.

So you might stop for a moment to think, "Gee,
wasn't it just last night, that I asked him to come
inside, and failing that, needed to create the sound
on my second request for him to come in?"

Did the sound come from my hand, or did the can
need to be tossed beyond him?

Follow through thinking this out, and make the right
decision. If you can't remember the last instance,
that's O.K. Simply do your best, and set yourself
an appointment to do the "Family Pack Leadership
Exercise" when you plan to re-install the conditioned
reflex to "come." It'll take about ten minutes.

7A. Other Examples of Using Sound to Correct "Bad Behavior"

As stated earlier, any sound, accompanied by
praise, is sufficient. For example: let's say your
dog walks right over to you while you're eating
dinner, and expects to help himself, without
permission, to your food.

If you were to snap your fingers in front of his face
and say "good boy, nice dog, what a good dog you
are," you'd feel pretty much like an idiot, until he
opened his mouth to grab your food, at which
point you'd reach around behind him and snap your
fingers again, following through with lavish praise.

If your timing and tone of voice were correct, he
would have stopped, but yet still be thinking of
taking your food without permission.

So we expect him to try again to get your food.
As he leans his big wet nose over your plate, and
again you were to snap your fingers in front of his
nose, and following the procedure, using lavish
praise for this horrible mistake, you'll find him
leaning back a little, thinking, thinking, thinking,
thinking, and thinking (and find yourself praising,
praising, and praising).

Now, he's going to look at your food, then look
up at you, then back at the food. Inasmuch as
it goes against everything you've ever been
lead to believe, you must praise this thought,
this learning plateau. You can learn to overcome
your natural instincts.

It's not easy being human.

Now we fully expect him to try once again to get
your food. At the moment he begins to make his
move, if you were to reach around behind him
and snap your fingers and speak praises, this
should be the last time you need address this
behavior, possibly for the rest of your life, or
until you change your location.

Pick up your plate and move to another chair,
and your loving pet will try again to steal your
food. Now, begin the procedure again, taking it
to its fourth properly performed repetition.

Now, he'll probably never try to steal your food
as long as you sit at either of the two positions
at your table that he has been conditioned to.

Taking this example to a third seat at the table,
and then to a fourth seat at the table will permanently
break this behavior. That is, until someone else sits
there with his or her food in front of him or her.

The point is that we will need four people or plate
settings at this table to permanently eradicate this
behavior. O.K.?

How about if we rearrange the dining room, and
move the table to another location? If you figure
this to be a "new environment," you've begun to
understand how your dog figures it to be.

Now, you know what to do, and how to do it.

A student called one day because although things
were moving along well with her dog, the dog
continued to jump up on the couch. When asked
how does she address the problem, she stated
hat she reaches over for one of the cans, gives
it a shake and praises, and indeed, the dog gets
off the couch, but gets back on again shortly
thereafter.

"How do you deal with that?" I asked.

"I reach for the cans, and give it another shake,
and as always, she gets right off, but gets back
on it again shortly thereafter."

"Don't you remember that the sound must come
from another direction?" I asked.

"Oh yes, now I remember. Creating the sound will
not be effective without alternating the source or
direction. Sorry to bother you about that," she said.

"Before you go, tell me, did you continue to do the
"Family Pack Leadership Exercise" at three other
locations, and finish reading the manual?" I asked.

7B. Unacceptable Demonstrations of Dominance

Your dog needs to control totally, or to be controlled
totally. In the big scheme of things, barring any
unusual tendencies, outward appearances should
look and feel like you are expressing proper control.

Even in the best of situations, most of us try to
get as much as we think we can get, or at least
as much as we feel we deserve. For the most
part, your dog doesn't want to get your job, your
possessions, or any thing else, except you.

All things being equal, you are the ultimate challenge.
You might be considered kind of like a doggy version
of Mt. Everest.

When climbing a mountain, one rule of thumb is
to obtain a good purchase, before aiming for
another handhold or foothold. Just about every
interaction with your dog might be considered a
purchase on your summit. We don't want him to
fall, but there's no room at the top.

You might look at the intricacies of the relationship
with your dog sort of being like a chess game.
Every interaction is a strategic assault that has to
be analyzed, assessed, and at some point countered.

Most canine interactions center on control issues.
These power plays go on all the time, and usually
take place without us even being aware, that we
are the pawn in a power play.

Although most of these ploys are harmless and
laughable, they do add up and scores are kept.

You don't have to play well, but like it or not,
you're in the game. Being consistent means you
get extra points.

Let's look at an example of how we innocently
participate, and the ramifications that occur as
a result.

Your dog jumps up on your couch. You look over
and tell him to get off. Being a good dog he jumps
right off, and resumes his appropriate spot.

Being a dog, he's going to try again. So he does.
And, doing your best, you remind him that you had
just asked him not to do that. But, he ignores you,
and you insist. So he goes.

But (being a dog) he tries again, and you (being
human) have got other things to do. Besides, he's
just been groomed, and you're getting another
couch soon, and you've decided to put this couch
in a good spot so can have it, and you're tired,
and it really doesn't matter.

So you ignore him.

This One Instance Of Inconsistency Just Fractured
His Entire Concept Of The Infrastructure Of Your
Home And your and His Role In It.

If you cannot make up your mind as to what
is important, then he needs to make decisions
so as to insure stability in his den.

7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance

How about every time your dog steps on your
feet? Don't you think your dog knows where
each of his feet are, and where they belong?

Or, how about his tail? Does he accidentally
smack you as he goes by? Maybe he clears
your coffee table as he moves past?

Certainly you can't expect your dog to understand
that this long, unwieldy appendage can rearrange
your knick-knacks or whatever.

"Maybe it's best to keep him out of those areas.
Besides, he's like a bull in a china shop."

We don't need to put up with these sorts of
"unavoidable" impositions on our lives or property.

You may say, "But surely there's no way to correct
such innocent impositions."

If you believe that, then you've wasted your time
reading this manual. Either start over again, or
reexamine your thinking. Let's look at how you
might remedy these situations. Remember, your
dog is going to model your behavior and act in kind.

You set the standard for good behaviors by demonstration.

7D. How To Correct Mouthing

Every puppy goes through a mouthing stage. It's
usually out grown by the end of teething. That
means he needs to chew something to cut new teeth.

Provide appropriate items to be chewed. Everything
else is not to be touched. Establish appropriate
mouth behavior right from first contact. There's
no excuse for being abused by your dogs teeth
until he's finished teething.

*Some trainers teach "bite inhibition." That's
almost the right idea.

First, mouthing is a bonding activity, so we don't
want to discourage it antagonistically. Appropriate
mouthing activity is up to you to determine. Some
of us don't like dog's mouths on us at all. Other's
don't mind and even enjoy it.

I always play with my dog's mouths, and I don't
mind gentle mouthing. Whatever you attitude,
just realize that others are going to be mouthed
or not in the same manner as you accept.

There's no such thing as being too young to learn
any behavior, within the physical limits of his body.

His brain is ready to be programmed to learn
everything he will ever need to know by the age
of 18 days old. Training your dog is not much
different than creating a filing system.

Just as you address each page that appears on
your screen, each behavior your dog performs
should be dealt with before moving on to something
else. Of course, if you are not prepared to cope
with a behavior because of, perhaps time restrictions,
make note of that behavior and set and appointed
time to re create the situation and address it totally.

The first instance your dog puts his mouth on you
inappropriately is to be regarded as an issue.
Each time you permit any inappropriate behavior
to continue without being addressed, you are
setting the precedent for more of the same behavior.

TECHNIQUE:

Subtle. Just be subtle. Whenever you have a
situation that needs immediate response, be
very careful to not let your dog know you are
either upset or going to correct him.

Casual. Just as casual as you would be as though
you were explaining to your best friend how to
find a tool in your garage. If your friend couldn't
find something, you'd just tell him where to look
and expect him to try again. And, if he returned
empty handed, you'd probably suggest a better
way to find the item.

Matter of factly. Just as matter of factly as you
would if your friend were to return without the
desired item once again. You'd calmly and matter
of factly get together and show him how to get it.

No big deal.

When your dog first opens his mouth toward you,
or any inappropriate matter, just create a sound
and praise for five to fifteen seconds. If he refrains
from that behavior, continue to praise. If he
continues with the misbehavior, repeat the
sound distraction from another direction followed
by prolonged, non physical praise.

If he continues, use the command " 'Out!,' good
boy, nice dog..." as you gently remove his teeth
from the object, immediately releasing his mouth
and praising all at the same time.

Once again, it is necessary to allow the behavior
to resume. As he thinks once again to open his
mouth toward an inappropriate item, repeat the
above procedure.

Understand that this process will require four
properly performed repetitions. Observe carefully
for the momentary hesitation on his third attempt,
and be careful to praise that moment and continue
praising for up to fifteen seconds or until the
mouthing stops or resumes.

And don't forget, once you've successfully inhibited
the behavior on one such item, you have at least
three more occasions for which this behavior
must be addressed to permanently delete it from
his repertoire of misbehavior.

Bear in mind, this technique will need to be repeated
in four different places, and perhaps with four
different items such as people, as well as any
item into which he may choose to sink his little teeth.

In other words, if he's chewing on your left hand,
addressing this behavior for four consecutive
occasions will prevent him chewing on only your
left hand, and only in that one area.

To successfully break this behavior, allow the
behavior to resume on the other hand. Next, he'll
probably look forward to chewing on your ankle,
and then he'll try the other ankle.

Sure, it sounds like a lot of work, and a young
puppy may indeed forget a previous lesson,
especially if he is in the process of cutting new
teeth.

Address each instance with patience and consistency.

Soon you'll see him think of the undesirable behavior,
and look right at you expecting the praise for having
restrained himself.

Remember, any time you show annoyance, you
are actually re-enforcing the undesirable behavior.

At some point in your dog's early life, it was likely
that his mom had the duty to correct him for
something like chewing on her, or for taking her
food.

Perhaps you'd think mom dogs would share all
their food with their puppies. That may be true
most of the time, just as most mom dogs won't
get thoroughly upset when their babies chew
on her.

But at some point, mom needs to protect herself
from her puppies; and furthermore, nature dictates
appropriate rules of behavior that she is compelled
to enforce.

Mom dogs will bat at their pups sideways with
their mouths, while making a guttural sound much
like the word out. Kind of like an umpire might be
heard to say. This, if your pup had ever been
corrected by his mom, it will have a profound
effect on him, much like Pavlov's bell.

In many instances this sound will stop a dog in
is tracks.

If you fail to praise immediately after creating this
sound, you will not have the benefits of it. Remember
any sound created to address misbehavior must
be accompanied with spontaneous, instant, constant,
non-physical praise, until the thought process has
finished, usually lasting between four to fifteen seconds.

Let him think about the occurrence of this sound,
and its relationship to his behavior. Allow the
behavior to once again begin t ooccur.

As soon as you determine that he's thinking of
opening his mouth again, simply create another
sound from a different source of origin, and
resume praise.

Once again, allow the behavior to begin to start,
and before he can complete the thought to begin
the act, c     reateanothersoundfollowedwithpraise.

This time, your dog should understand the reasoning
behind the sounds. He's going to think about the
behavior, and pause while he's thinking about the
prior instances of this.

You must praise this time period that he is processing
this information. It's critical that you observe him each
time after you have created a sound to interrupt a
behavior, to recognize this hesitation period during
which he is momentarily refraining from engaging in
this behavior.

Because this problem of mouthing is so common
and difficult, and serious, here is an artificial aid
that can be used to insure success. Please use
all of the recommended suggestions first, at least
to be fair that your dog has had the opportunity
to learn through appropriate methods.

Dr. Sloan created a liniment that bears his picture
on the label. This is guaranteed to inhibit mouthing
or chewing on such items as electric cords, leads,
anything.

Be sure to avoid contact with eyes, even long after
this preparation has been handled. You'll find it on
the shelf in any Rexall store, or ask your pharmacist
to order it. "Sloan's liniment." A little goes a long
way, so get the small size, and be prepared to put
up with the not unpleasant but pervasive aroma for
a few days.

7E. "No Dogs on Beds?" And Other Problems

If you don't want your dog to use your bed, or
to come up on your bed only when invited, you
can use a combination of sound distraction/praise
and reflex command installation to achieve the
goal you desire.

For the purpose of this exercise, let's assume
that you want your dog to come up on the bed
only when he is invited.

Scenario: your dog jumps on the bed without
permission. You should look for the most
appropriate "correction" based on the dog's
thinking. Let's examine how the dog sees this
picture, and then we'll be able to understand
better how the Wits' End Dog Training Method
works.

So... your dog is cruising through the house, he
sees the bed and says, "Hey, Mom/Dad isn't using
the bed. Maybe I'll jump up and wait for them."

That's not inappropriate, so when you see him
just say "Get off the bed good boy" and if
necessary repeat with the sound cue on the
key word "bed." Failing that, a come command
would be appropriate.

(This scenario demonstrates HOWE COME it
is necessary to install a proper "recall" or "come"
command as described earlier in the manual.)

Let's now assume that your dog has obeyed your
"come" command, but then tries another leap on
the bed. This time, use sound distraction with praise.

If he gets his feet on the bed and refuses to come
off after the third time of sound distraction and
praise, ask for the "come" command. Use the
"come" command as a default for any unfulfilled
command, but only after giving all other options
first.

This will become more evident as we get into
the heeling pattern exercises.

If you are already on the bed and your dog jumps
up without permission, use sound distraction
and praise (3 times), and then if this is not
obeyed, give the command "get off the bed
good boy" and follow through.

If necessary, you would get off the bed, call
him to come and sit in front of you, return to
heel, and release him and get back into bed
and wait until he attempts again.

(You can learn more about the "return to heel"
exercise in Part II of the W.E.D.T.M. Manual.)

Lastly, if you detect that your dog has been on
the bed when you weren't present, drop a sound
can on the bed casually in his presence while
not on the bed, and be silent. Follow the technique
as in any other "after the fact" behavior.

7F Housebreaking Technique

The more you try to "housebreak" your dog, the
more anxiety he'll associate with it, and you will
never get it done. Here are directions that will
quickly get you in good shape with her, but you
must follow the directions exactly.

Some dogs like to exercise,  run around for a
few minutes before they relieve themselves.
If that's what your dog likes and if that's what
you want, by all means do that first but get back
into the Technique so you'll have the ability to
teach your dog to take his break in two minutes flat.

Part of the solution is to teach the dog to relieve
himself on command so that the dog knows the
purpose of his trip outside, and that he's got two
minutes to relieve himself.

That can be done in a couple of days with a
determined effort to supervise and walk the dog
when appropriate breaks are necessary, or when
the dog shows signs that he needs to go out.

Two minutes of standing in one appropriate break
area, without walking or talking (which would will
only distract the dog).

The request to "take a break good boy" should
be given and if the dog sniffs the ground he should
be praised. If he looks around at the birds or other
distractions, a second request to "take a break
good boy" should be given.

If he sniffs the ground he should be told he's a
good boy again, if not, you should elapse the
two minutes without walking around, and return
inside on command, if you're working on obedience.

Don't fixate on the lack of results, we're talking
about learning and conditioning a habit, not just
the mechanics of the alimentary canal and bladder.

If the dog did not relieve himself, constant
SURREPTITIOUS (subtle, unnoticed) supervision
will be necessary until the dog again shows signs
of needing to relieve himself.

When that happens (it may only be five minutes
after having just been out), he should be offered
another break, and the same procedure should follow.

You've got to wait till the pup "asks" or shows
signs of "discomfort" indicating he needs to relieve
himself, or you wont be teaching him to be able
to contain himself.

That's HOWE COME many "trainers" can't quickly
house train  their dogs, they never TRAIN them to
be able to "hold it," because they're WORRIED
about the dog making a mistake.

They WORRY more about teaching an unwanted
behavior than they THINK about TEACHING a
desired behavior. Two minutes, and that's it.
No more than two requests to relieve himself,
and no unnecessary walking while on command
to "take a break."

He should be handled on a six foot lead to prevent
him from wandering around and getting distracted
from his task. Conclude the break with the "back
to work" command and have the dog return to
heel and sit, before continuing.

THIS IS CRITICAL for more advanced trained dogs,
you'll understand as you read the Wits' End Dog
Training Method manual.

IF THE DOG FAILS TO RETURN TO HEEL AND
SIT, THAT MEANS HE'S STILL GOT TO RELIEVE
HIMSELF.

You can then ask him if he needs to relieve himself
again, INSTEAD OF the default for breaking a
command as per the Wits' End Dog Training
Method manual and he's GONNA KNOW that
he's between a rock and a hard place.

He's going to have to make a decision. That's
the fundamental principle of the Wits' End Dog
Training Method. It's a very powerful technique.

You may not have just a housebreaking problem,
but also a behavior problem. Every time you react
to your dog's housebreaking mistake, you are
reinforcing it as a negative attention getting device.

That's HOWE COME screaming NO or scolding
or doing anything to call your attention to a behavior
TEACHES the dog he can pull your chain.

Here's what you need to do to end your dog's
ability to pull your chain. Any malbehavior is
being reinforced when you confront the dog
about the behavior.

The problem with housebreaking is, you may not
know if the accident was because the dog NEEDED
to relieve himself, or maybe he didn't KNOW any
better, or if he's SICK, or if he's just stabbing you
in the back for scolding him when he tried to steal
your toast this morning.

So, don't scold, and we can eliminate THAT MAJOR
CAUSE of HOWESbreaking accidents.

This becomes a vicious cycle, the punishment
or scolding only create more stress and anxiety,
which may cause other behavior problems as a
replacement, even though confronting the dog
may seem to "work" at the moment.

Obviously, confronting the dog should not have
been the recommended method to deal with this,
or any behavior problem. If that's the kind of advice
your getting from your pet professionals, run like
the dickens and tell them to call Jerry.

Keeping the lead on your dog while you go about
the house is often recommended, and might
occasionally work. HOWEver, you can't just tie
a dog on your belt and expect him to act like a
key chain or drag him around like a sack of sand
and expect him to set where you leave him.

The only time the dog should be on lead with you
is when the dog is properly on command. Otherwise,
the restriction will cause stress and further promote
other behavior problems.

HOWE can you deal with the dog tied to you if you
haven't learned proper lead handling techniques?
The pup isn't a sack of sand that can be dragged
around and dropped anywhere you put it. Any
pulling on the dog's collar will cause out of control
behavior.

It's called the opposition reflex, positive thigmotaxis.
Now, when accidents happen, how do you deal with
this? It's real simple, but you have to not let the dog
see your reaction, or he'll still be "rewarded" for the
"crime."

Ignore the incident. Walk right past the "mistake."

It may not have been a mistake, and you can't
call your physical or verbal attention into the
problem without creating more difficulty for yourself.

Prearrange a soda can with six pennies in it, in a
convenient central location. The can must be picked
up silently and unobtrusively, casually. In the
presence of th