I wouldn't leave food out for him - unless its in a trap.  I wish you the best
in capturing him again.

I don't have much advice, but you have my sympathy. My cat is formerly
feral and I think would have done the same thing if she got out too soon
after living with me -- and of course these things sometimes happen despite
one's best efforts, so don't blame yourself.

Good luck, I hope he comes back soon. Please keep us posted. With any luck,
he did not go too far, he's just in a good hiding place.

--Catherine
& Rosalie the formerly big chicken calicohead

Antonio took off and I haven't seen

Can you safely leave your door (the one he used as an escape route) open all
night?  If so, lock your other cats in a room where they will be safe, then
open the screen door at least enough for Antonio and place more tuna and
possibly sardines (something that is highly "scented") just *inside* the
door.  This might tempt him.  Try to sleep by the door to give you an
opportunity to close it behind him if he enters.  This should be *in
addition to* the outdoor Hav-a-Hart traps, not a replacement.  Also, be sure
to cover the "release" lever on the Hav-a-Hart traps loosely with a piece of
newspaper so Antonio will not see it.

Good luck!

MaryL

<< Antonio took off and I haven't seen
him since. >>

Kelly, I'm sorry, you must be very upset, I know I would be.  This is something
I saved from years ago that was posted on this newsgroup:

FINDING A LOST CAT

The first and most important things to remember are to not despair
and to not give up.   If you get out there right away and keep
looking, your chances of finding your lost cat are quite good.  It
might take days, weeks or even longer, but we think that many people
lose their cat simply by giving up their search before the cat is
ready to be found.  It can also take people quite some time to
realize that there's a new kitty hiding in their bushes and even
longer to decide to do something about it by calling a rescue group
or a shelter.  So, especially in the early days and weeks, there is
no substitute for getting out there and pounding the pavement
yourself.  We recommend a two pronged approach--publicity and self-
help.

Your publicity campaign should start immediately.  Prepare a LOST CAT
poster, with a photo if possible: include a brief description of the
cat, where and when it was last seen (e.g., 200 block of Main Street,
Falls Church) and a contact number.  Injecting a "human" touch
(e.g., "Kitty" is missed by his desperate mom, heartbroken family or
sleepless toddler) is also important and will help motivate people to
help you--it's okay to be manipulative!  Offering a reward may be
similarly helpful, but, based on our experience, is not mandatory--
save room on your poster for more important information  such as
whether your cat was wearing a collar and name tag.  Start posting on
your own street and then expand to the next block, fanning out from
where the cat was lost or last seen. (Tip: use inexpensive
transparent page covers (available at office supply stores), open end
down, of course, to waterproof your posters.  And be sure to take all
your posters down when you find your kitty!)  Talk to people about
your cat and ask them to call you if they see any strange kitties
around.  A good way to strike up this conversation, especially in
winter when people aren't outdoors as much, is to go door to door
hand delivering copies of your poster or an even more detailed
flyer.  People are often unbelievably kind and eager to help!  Send a
copy of your poster or flyer to local vet hospitals and to all the
area municipal shelters, not just the nearest one.  (Tip: ask how
long the shelter will keep reports on file and renew your report as
needed; whenever possible, include a photo with your shelter
report).  Follow up on every lead you get and focus your search in
those areas.  You might find a paid consultation with a well-
recommended animal communicator or pet psychic to be useful,
especially in focusing your search and you may want to register with
one or more of the internet services that provide free lost and found
listings for pet owners (e.g., Hugs for Homeless Animals
(www.h4ha.org) and The Internet Lost and Found
(www.lostandfound.com)).

It also takes a lost cat time to let himself be noticed.  Despite
the "Fantastic Journey"-type stories we all have heard, in our
experience, lost cats generally do not stray far from the first safe
spot they find after they escape or realize they're lost.  While some
indoor-only kitties may initially relish their freedom and while it
may take longer for an indoor-outdoor cat to recognize that he's gone
beyond his accustomed territory, many indoor kitties get the point
immediately that they're on uncharted ground.  And at whatever point
a cat realizes he is lost, he will often find a safe spot to hide in
and go to ground.  It is as though cats have a self-protecting
instinct that tells them to keep silent and still.  Unlike dogs, cats
will not readily seek help from strange humans.  Even the sound of
their own special person's voice calling and calling often cannot pry
them from their safe spots.  Thus, your lost kitty could be right
under the bush at your feet and be unable to bring himself to come
running to you for help.  

It is therefore essential that, in addition to putting up your lost
cat signs and making shelter reports, you get out there, walking the
neighborhood in the vicinity of where the cat was last seen.  You'll
want to bring some cat-catching equipment with you--use your cat
carrier as a tool kit and stock it with a strong flashlight and spare
batteries, a pillowcase or towel, thick gloves, a small pop top can
of cat food or "human" tuna, a spoon, a few paper towels or wet wipes
and a resealable plastic bag.  If you saw your cat escape, initially
follow his trajectory before branching out in other directions.  In
addition to calling the cat's name, use other words and names that
may be familiar to the cat.  (Tip: try to keep your voice calm and
upbeat when you call the kitty: who would want to come to an
hysterical, sobbing parent?)  Talk to him and try to visualize him
engaged in familiar activities--tell him his dinner is waiting in his
bowl, his special blanket is ready for him to lie on.  Don't worry
about what the neighbors think or about seeming foolish.  It also
can't hurt to rattle dry food or cat treats in a bag or box or tap a
can opener against a cat food can if that's an accustomed part of
your cat's routine (add these to your cat-catching tool kit, above).  

The familiar names, words and sounds will help "anchor" your cat by
sending mental images of home and keep him from heading further
afield in search of a new safe spot.  (Tip: as you search, every few
steps, call to your cat, stand still, listen for a responsive meow
and repeat.  Even if the cat can't bring himself to come out to you,
he might meow in response, helping you focus your search.)  Dusk and
dark are especially good times to head out to try to catch the gleam
of your flashlight reflected in the cat's eyes, provided you can do
so in reasonable safety.  Keep calling and talking to the cat as you
walk: check under cars, bushes, in storm drains. (Tip: cats often use
storm sewer systems as underground highways and for shelter and
warmth; in most jurisdictions, you can arrange to have a manhole
opened so you can go down yourself, especially if you see cat eyes
peering up at you or hear a meow in response to your call.)  Ask
neighbors for permission to look in their yards, and in and under
their sheds and porches.  Keep checking and rechecking all these
areas as your search proceeds--your cat may have had to find a new
hiding spot sooner than he wanted to.

Meanwhile, at home, set food and water outside your house, preferably
in a sheltered place that you can see from your window.  You may also
wish to borrow a humane trap, particularly if you've seen your cat or
had promising reports from neighbors.  Many shelters will rent humane
traps, and rescue groups like FFGW can sometimes lend them out and/or
give advice on safe trapping techniques, including what to do if you
trap someone who is not your cat.  While it may seem obvious, if you
do trap your cat, no matter how ecstatic you may be, don't even think
about opening the trap until you have your cat in an enclosed space!  
Be strong!

When you see your cat, even if you don't actually recover him that
day, you are in the home stretch.  Have your cat-catching tool kit
with you, but don't count on being able to actually recover your
kitty the first time you see him.  Whatever you do, don't shout,
shriek or run toward him.  He may want desperately to come to you,
but may still be in the throes of his "keep safe" instinct and be
unable to come to you.  Instead, summon every ounce of will you have
and sit down on the ground and talk to him quietly.  Try to lure him
to you; resist the urge to grab him tightly the moment he comes
near.  Use the time while you're trying to get him to approach to
quietly empty out the carrier.  Be strong--if you grab or lunge at
him, you will scare him and make your task even harder.  When he
comes to you, try to pet him for a while before even trying to pick
him up.  If you can, coax him into your lap, but still don't grab.  
Let him step off your lap if he wants to.  This is the time for slow
and steady reassurance, not for swift maneuvers.  

As anxious as you are, we promise that it's better to let him go than
to act too swiftly and scare him off.  Once he's approached you and
is more like his normal self, you'll want to turn to your now-empty
tool kit.  Place a small amount of the cat food or tuna as far back
in the carrier as you can and try to get him to walk in.  If he does,
be prepared to close the door as soon as all four feet and his tail
are inside.  Don't force the issue if he only goes part way in.  If
he won't fall for the carrier trick, you can try to pick him up and
place him in the carrier, but be extremely cautious.  (Tip: use your
gloves--he may be your baby, but if he's scared enough, he may try to
use his teeth to protect himself--even from you!)  Taking him by the
scruff of his neck and lowering him into the up-ended carrier tail-
end first is a good technique, but don't try it if you've never
scruffed your kitty before or if you know he just can't stand it
(many can't).  

If you don't think you have a chance of getting him in a carrier, or
if he's resisted but is still hanging around, you can try wrapping
him in the pillowcase or towel to help you keep control over him
until you can get him safely inside your car or home.  It may,
however, be wisest to postpone recovery, especially if you're not
confident that you can keep him under control until you get to your
car or home.  You can come back later and try coaxing him into his
carrier again and/or begin setting a humane trap on nights when you
can watch the trap from afar for several hours while you wait for
your hungry little one to fall for the bait.  Don't be defeated!  
Even if he won't come near or runs off.  The hardest part is over.  
You know where he is; you know he's okay.  You will soon have your
cat in hand.  Keep trying.  Don't despair.  And, whatever you do,
don't give up!

Good luck, please keep us posted.

Candace
(take the litter out before replying by e-mail)

See my cats:
http://photos.yahoo.com/maccandace

"One does not meet oneself until one catches the reflection from an eye other
than human."  (Loren Eisely)

Is there a sound she come's running for? An electric toy? Shaking a
can of treats? Electric can opener?

Just a thought