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Cat Forum / Health and Behavior / October 2007Help introducing new cat
We have an older indoor cat we adopted several years ago. She followed us into the house and has been here since. Recently, we had a young cat, less than a year old, show up outside. She is friendly, healthy, and judging by the way she occasionally tries to come in is either a lost or abandoned indoor cat. I wouldn't mind adopting her BUT my older cat is a BIG problem. We had tried a couple of times in the past to bring in other cats and it has been a major disaster. The last time we kept the new cat separated in the living room where the only contact was thru a closed door. My cat reacted by repeatedly trying to attack under the door and would spend all her time sitting and growling at the door. After two weeks we tried introducing the two, but it got out of hand quickly. My cat got away and attacked and did enough damage in a couple of minutes to involve surgury. At this point with the cold weather coming quickly, we have to make a decision about whether to TRY to find a new home for the cat, prep the cat for outside, or bring her in. Is there any helpful suggestions out there?  SignatureConstitution; Bill of Rights; -- Void where prohibited by law Some cats are one cat furballs only > We have an older indoor cat we adopted several years ago. She followed us > into the house and has been here since. Recently, we had a young cat, [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Is there any helpful suggestions out there? > We have an older indoor cat we adopted several years ago. She followed us > into the house and has been here since. Recently, we had a young cat, [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Is there any helpful suggestions out there? My cat, Holly, at one time would aggressively attack any other cat in my vicinity. We called her "the black tornado," and I assumed that I could not have another cat as long as Holly was with me. Then I saw a picture of Duffy -- blind, in a cage at a shelter where he had been for several months, and kitten season was approaching (which would mean lack of space, and it was a kill shelter). I decided to adopt him, and a friend with lots of rescue experience gave me help and advice. I followed that advice "to the letter." It took about 6 weeks, but Holly and Duffy now get along beautifully. I am attaching links under my signature to some pictures that form a sort of photo history of what I did. The temporary door with the wire mesh panel that you will see in some of the pictures (many people use simple screen doors) was an important part of the process. I also wrote a fairly long document some time ago describing the process. Please email me privately if you would like for me to email it to you. The email that is attached to this message is valid, except that you first need to "take-out-the-litter." Note: You *can* be successful. However, please proceed slowly and carefully. It is a big mistake to just "throw cats together," especially when you already know that one will be antagonistic. MaryL Photos of Duffy and Holly: >'o'< http://tinyurl.com/8y54 (Introducing Duffy to Holly) http://tinyurl.com/8y56 (Duffy and Holly "settle in") Response from Talker <hsprayberry@lexcominc.net>: > We have an older indoor cat we adopted several years ago. She > followed us into the house and has been here since. Recently, we [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Is there any helpful suggestions out there? I really like what MaryL had to say. I just want to reinforce it a bit to make sure something was clear. You mentioned that YOIC (your older indoor cat) would go ape and try attacking under the door. How would you feel if there was an interloper in your home AND you could not even see them? You would react poorly and definitely defensive. However if you could see that it was a pretty little kitty you MIGHT calm down or at least calm down quicker than normal. So what MaryL said about a screened or mesh door is not only a good option but THE ONLY OPTION when it comes to separating them. By the only option I mean they HAVE to be able to smell each other and see each other without smashing their faces against a crevice or underneath a door. Make it as pleasant as possible. And with that... good luck. Signature-Lost Remove the extra words to reply by e-mail. Don't e-mail me. I am kidding. No I am not. > Response from Talker <hspraybe...@lexcominc.net>: > [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Firstly when introducing an new cat to an old cat there are a few things you should think about: the main thing is are the cats desexed or were they desexed before they hit maturity i think you'll find that cats not desexed before six months will be a whole lot more aggressive. when you introduce the cats make sure that both cats are being held and are are given lots of attention especially the elder cat. make sure there are two people. hold the elder cat and put the new cat down let it wander for a few minutes then pic it up and repeat. if there is agression straight away with the elder cat a loud NO in a deep voice (almost like a growl) and remove the cat from the room instantly. Do this twice a day morning and evening. After a week you should be able to have the cats in the same room for SHORT periods of time fully supervised. Eventually this should work but it will require time and effort. GOODLUCK! > Firstly when introducing an new cat to an old cat there are a few > things you should think about: the main thing is are the cats desexed [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > being held and are are given lots of attention especially the elder > cat. make sure there are two people. hold the elder cat and put the WHOA! Really, *REALLY* bad idea - unless you like sitting in an emergency room waiting for stitches in your arms and face. *NEVER, EVER* hold a cat when introducing him/her to a new cat. > new cat down let it wander for a few minutes then pic it up and > repeat. if there is agression straight away with the elder cat a loud [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > of time fully supervised. Eventually this should work but it will > require time and effort. GOODLUCK! Cats don't understand "NO" in either a deep or falsetto voice - and if you can remove an agressive cat from a room containing another cat *without* body armor, I would be truly amazed. Talker, listen to MaryL and follow her instructions closely - it's the best shot you'll have at introducing the two cats. The approach she took is the best I've ever heard of, with only one caveat... there really *are* some cats who will always be an "only cat"**. I tried to home an extremely sweet, human-lovey cat, and used MaryL's approach. After 6 weeks the cat was still savagely attacking the 10-week-old kittens I'd also adopted (very unusual for a cat not to pick up on the "I give up" body language of kittens). We finally gave up and brought her back to her foster home and let them know that she would make the *perfect* companion for someone who wanted only one cat. **Those who firmly aver otherwise, and who'll argue the point to death, have never, I believe, really come across an "only cat" - just "difficult to integrate" cats. Hugs, CatNipped >... >Cats don't understand "NO" in either a deep or falsetto voice - . Oh yes they do. They just ignore it. >>... >>Cats don't understand "NO" in either a deep or falsetto voice - >> > . > > Oh yes they do. They just ignore it. LOL, OK, well that's true - but the outcome is the same! ;> Hugs, CatNipped
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