WTF?  "If he sprays the bed, he's going to the vet and I'm putting him
down".
If you are serious take your pet to no kill shelter and never own a pet
again

You love your pet  yet you make statements like that one?

Would you like to go back and rephrases your statement  before people think
you are a waste of life?

I agree that the response wasn't helpful, but look, you've owned him
for almost six years, you brought him up, and if he's having a problem,
it's your responsibility to deal with. The vet is not going to put down
a healthy six year old cat no matter what you say, so all you'll end up
doing is making your problem somebody else's problem. You need to solve
it.

First, although I doubt it, he should go to the vet to check for a
urinary tract infection. Even if he just got a check-up - they can come
on fast. Secondly, you need to to do something different with the
llitterbox. Get a 2nd box, do not cover it, and fill it with unscented
clumping litter. Spraying is one of a couple of things: dissatisfaction
with the box (he may not want to share at this point in his life),
territorial issues with the other cat
(which can be going on even if they seem to be getting along okay) or a
protest against you. Since it sounds like he's doing it right in front
of you and wanting to be seen, odds are: it's a protest.

So what changed a few months ago? Something must have. Are you spending
less time with him? Different schedule? Cats are sensitive to these
things (wildly so) and they react. In his little fuzzy head, you're
doing things that piss him off, so he's balancing the scales and doing
something that he can see pisses you off (and has no negative
consequences for him that he can detect). He doesn't know that you
might take him to the vet and have him killed.

Sometimes keeping him with you alone in a room with just the new
litterbox and lots of attention can re-orient him to the new box (which
he'll associate with getting to spend time with you). Sometimes using a
time out in the bathroom after a spraying incident with the new box can
also work.

But it does sound like a cat protest, so I look a little deeper and try
to figure out what started this going in the first place.

It does sound like nervous or associative urination caused by feeling
insecure, and you need to think of triggers, as Tracey suggests. I know
you've been to the vet, but did you mention this to him at the time of the
check-up? This always has to be the starting point, medical factors must be
ruled-out.

Secondly, it's very difficult to break the association with the various
objects. They need to be cleaned with a proprietary "urine-off" cleaner and I
would recommend you consult a professional company to do this (they have
special lights that show-up the urine).

Also, try using the pheremone spray as well as the diffuser for added punch.

http://www.celiahaddon.co.uk/pet%20problems/cats/frameset.html
http://wizz-catz.co.uk/soiling.html
http://www.fabcats.org/spraying.html

Please consider the Tufts University Petfax Program (through their School of
Veterinary Medicine). I realize that you are concerned about expenses, but
this would be a lot less costly than replacing furniture and far more humane
and *satisfying* than the alternative you mentioned. I can see from your
message that you do love your cat, and you probably wrote out of
frustration - but putting your pet down isn't the answer.

The Tufts Petfax Program is a consulting service for pet behavioral
problems. I have read many positive reports about them, and my sister used
the service at one time. She had done everything she could think of to solve
the spraying problem, and her entire house reeked. This service was very
helpful. I think the original consultation was $198.00 (now $206.00,
according to their web site), but it included an extensive written report
and 3 follow-ups (with some options for telephone consultation). There is a
report to fill out first, and the people who posted about it stressed that
it is very important to include *all details*. She acted on their advice and
obtained a prescription from her veterinarian for Prozac. Please note that
this was a last option and not something that she jumped on in the
beginning, but it has *completely solved* the problem of spraying. Her cat
has had no difficulties with the medication, and there have been no
additional spraying episodes since she started the program several years ago
(although you do have to give it enough time to adjust and be effective). It
is vital to first make sure that your cat does not have any medical problems
(but I am working on that assumption because you said your cat was recently
vet checked).

Here are two links --
Tufts School of Veterinary Medicine Petfax Program:
http://www.tufts.edu/vet/petfax/
About the Petfax Program:
http://www.tufts.edu/vet/petfax/about.html

MaryL

Hope this helps...see info below...

WHY FELINES NEED TO MARK THEIR TERRITORY

Felines are truly amazing creatures!! We are frequently asked how difficult
it is to litter box-train a young kitten. Our answer is that kittens really
litter box train themselves!! When raised in a secure, loving home
environment, kittens learn by watching their mother use her litter box, and
she also encourages her young kittens to use a litter box once they have
started the weaning process and are beginning to eat solid foods. Up until
that time, the mother cat takes care of keeping her kittens clean. When
starting young kittens off with a litter box, be sure the first box is small
enough for the kittens to easily climb in and out, and use only a small
amount of plain clay litter (non clumping, as most young kittens go through
a stage of eating and munching on their litter) at first. It is a natural
instinct for cats to bury and be extremely clean in all their elimination
habits -- in fact, cats in the wild will bury their feces and urine to help
ensure their survival by not leaving their scent which might attract
predators. Wild cats will also sometimes leave their feces purposefully to
define the perimeters of their territory and as a warning to potential
intruders. The point is, felines always have a reason for what they do with
their urine and fecal eliminations, and they also have several other ways to
"mark" their territory - "marking territory " is one of the most important
ways in which cats communicate with other cats and with humans.

For house cats who suddenly start eliminating inappropriately in the home,
the very first thing to rule out is any medical cause. FUS (Feline
Urological Syndrome), which can include such conditions as cystitis,
blockage of the urethra, and urethritis, can all cause your kitty great pain
when urinating or trying to urinate. This can lead to your kitty associating
that pain with the litter box, and simply refusing to use it. Taking your
kitty in to your vet for a checkup and testing for FUS is a must before
looking any further for the sudden change in your kitty's litter box habits.

It is also important to realize that cats can use their urine, feces and
their scratching marks as a means of "marking" what they consider to be
"their" territory. Cats "mark" in a variety of interesting ways, and it is
thought that felines have developed their communication system by marking as
a means to greatly reduce the amount of actual face-to-face confrontation
between cats and thereby increase their chances for survival. There is also
another form of communicating by marking from cats - marking by head
rubbing.

MARKING BY HEAD RUBBING

Have you ever noticed that your kitty may enjoy rubbing his face onto your
leg or face?? Or, how your kitty may rub his face against your furniture,
table legs, or cabinets?? Normally, this type of marking is done by a feline
to express contentment, and mimics the friendly, comforting type of marking
that cats will do in their nest in the wild. People are usually marked by
cats with their forehead, while furniture and other inanimate objects are
marked by the sides of their cheeks and their chins. Cats are most likely to
rub someone that they know, and if a cat is not quite comfortable coming up
to someone, they may end up rubbing against a nearby table, slowly working
their way up to actually head rubbing the newcomer. This type of
communication by marking is usually enjoyed by both the feline and their
human family.

MARKING BY SCRATCHING

Many people do not realize that cats also can use scratching as a method of
marking, or communicating. Felines actually have sweat glands in their paw
pads, and when they scratch against furniture, fences, and other vertical
objects, they are actually rubbing their own scent from those glands onto
the object to mark their territory. The vertical scratch marks also leave a
visible mark for other cats to see as well as smell, and the cat will reach
up and scratch downward as an indication of how big he is. The higher the
markings, the bigger the animal (translates to tougher the competition!)
will seem to another cat. Where a cat chooses to scratch is going to be
determined in part by whether the cat is a vertical or a horizontal
scratcher. Horizontal scratchers will tend to prefer chair cushions,
carpets, rugs, and other flat surfaces. Felines usually scratch in rather
predictable places - favorites are commonly used entrances and exits to the
home; the main front door entrance; favorite sleeping areas; and any
boundary that they feel is being "challenged" in some way.

Cats also scratch to groom their claws, and remove old skin and claw
sheaths. Usually, cats who scratch primarily for this reason will scratch in
the same spot, vs. cats who scratch in numerous locations, and especially
near doors and windows. This latter behavior is much more likely to be that
of a feline marking territory. One of the best solutions for cats who
scratch in the home is to provide them with a good, sturdy, tall piece of
cat furniture, preferably one that provides a variety of vertical scratching
surfaces such as carpet, wood and sisal rope. You will want to be sure that
the posts of the cat furniture do allow your cat to stretch fully for
scratching. You may also want to provide some cat toys with horizontal
scratching surfaces. By observing your feline carefully for several days,
you can probably determine the best locations in your home for placing the
cat furniture and the special horizontal scratching toys.

URINE MARKING AND SPRAYING

Okay, here is one of the most troublesome forms of marking that cats can do.
Remember, if your kitty should suddenly stop using his litter box, the first
thing to do is take him in to your vet for a checkup to rule out FUS (Feline
Urological Syndrome). FUS is an extremely common cause of inappropriate
litter box behavior in cats.

There is a major difference between urine "marking" and urine "spraying" in
cats. Both are done deliberately by a cat, and are used to deliver a
specific message, usually a message intended for other cats long after the
sender is gone. Urine spraying is done by a cat backing up against a
vertical surface such as a wall or curtain drapes, and spraying their urine
against the surface while in a standing position. Urine marking is done with
a cat in a squatting position, causing the urine to squirt onto a horizontal
surface. The reason cat urine has such a powerful odor is that there is a
fatty ingredient in the cat's urine which allows it to cling to surfaces and
objects, and also causes the strong smell. Un-neutered male tom cats have
urine that is especially pungent and unpleasant. Contrary to popular belief,
BOTH male and female cats can spray and mark with their urine.

When dealing with a cat who is spraying or marking by urine, and you've
ruled out any medical reason for this behavior, your next step is to try to
figure out the cause of the behavior. Stress is one of the leading causes
for naturally fastidiously clean cats to start marking or spraying with
their urine. By marking their home/territory with their own scent, this
creates a sense of comfort and security to the cat. Some very common causes
of stress for a cat may include smelling or seeing outdoor animals such as
other visiting cats, or even birds, skunks, squirrels, dogs, or any other
outdoor and/or unfamiliar animals. Moving to a new house, or changes with
the home such as redecorating, home renovations or construction, the
addition or loss of new family members (including babies and other pets) -
even changes in your work schedule or daily habits can all be extremely
stressful to a cat. Felines like their world to be very consistent, and
changes within their world may cause them to feel their territory is being
challenged or is in jeopardy.

Urine marking is frequently done by whole males and whole females to attract
a mate. Having your male kitty neutered or your female kitty spayed should
take care of this problem. If your cat sees a visiting outdoor cat through
the window, he may spray on the window sills or even on the curtains to the
window. Sometimes, a cat will urinate on anything new that comes in to the
home, such as suitcases, shopping bags, etc., that have a new smell. Cats
who are highly territorial may feel the need to mark this new smell with
their own smell. Cats can also mark or spray in hostility or defiance over a
stranger coming in to the home and "over-staying" (in the cat's opinion).
The cat may jump onto the bed after a visitor has been there to mark over
that person's smell.

If you have a cat that is already fixed yet is still spraying, this may be a
sign of the cat feeling overcrowded (especially in a multi-cat home), and/or
having an aggressive behavior towards other cats. Even if all your cats
seemingly get along well together, it is important to remember that spraying
and marking are done very deliberately by cats, and ALWAYS for a very
specific reason - they are trying to communicate that something is wrong
(from THEIR perspective).

FECAL MARKING

This is a much less common form of marking than urine marking. Sometimes, if
a cat feels a need to be noticed, it might leave a pile of feces exposed to
try to achieve that. There is a strong odor associated with the feces, which
the cat identifies as its own smell. If the feces are left next to a litter
box, it is probably a signal to you that something is wrong with the litter
box itself ... from the cat's point of view ... (i.e., box isn't clean
enough; location is wrong; litter type is not to the cat's liking; litter
box type is not to the cat's liking). If the cat is using fecal marking to
express displeasure (such as protesting a new boyfriend that the cat doesn't
like, etc.), it will usually leave the feces close to the area of protest
(such as the bed in which the boyfriend last slept, etc.). Fecal marking is
more likely to occur with cats that spend all or part of their time
outdoors, and with cats who have previously lived as strays.

SOLUTIONS TO INAPPROPRIATE MARKING BEHAVIORS

If your kitty is marking by urine or feces, here are some things to consider
and try. First of all, rule out any medical problems. Next, be sure your cat
is fixed. Keep things as simple and stress-free as possible in your home for
your kitty. Try to ensure that your cat feels that he can predict what will
happen each day. When you must make changes at home, be sure to do them
gradually, and provide a lot of time and support to your cat while going
through these changes. In serious cases, there are anti-anxiety medications
that can be prescribed for cats. There is also a natural pheromone spray out
called "Feliway" which you can get from your vet, which can be very calming
to cats and reduce their urge to spray and mark.

Do not declaw your kitty!! De-clawing can lead to other behavior problems
such as inappropriate marking and emotional insecurities. (For more
information about de-clawing cats, the facts and alternatives, please CLICK
HERE.) Make sure you clean all urine-sprayed areas with an odor neutralizer,
and/or a chemical enzyme product which naturally breaks down the urine
molecules completely. If you don't do this, the problem will never be solved
because the odor from that area will trigger the cat to spray there again
each time he passes by. Do NOT use cleaning products with ammonia - ammonia
will only intensify the urine odor and encourage your cat to return to that
area and mark again. Take a good honest look at the facilities you have to
ensure that you do not have an overcrowded environment for your cat. You can
increase the amount of "territory" for your cats by adding additional tall
cat stands. Cats definitely consider vertical space part of their territory,
and several tall cat stands can greatly increase the amount of territory for
cats in a small apartment or home. Another way to increase "territory" for
your cats is to build some add-on protected enclosures, extension windows,
etc.

You may want to take a good look at your litter box. The box needs to be as
attractive as possible TO THE CAT. For large cats, do not use a litter box
with a swinging lid - large cats will often prefer to keep their heads and
shoulders outside the door of a hooded litter box while using the box. Some
cats prefer open boxes; some prefer the privacy of a box with a lid. Do not
use a huge litter box for a small kitten or cat; and do not use a small box
for a large cat!! Common sense will go a long way - try to think from your
cat's point of view. If you have a multi-level home, there should be a box
on each level. Remember too that some cats prefer to defecate in one box,
and urinate in another. The litter box should be cleaned daily, and the
entire contents should be replaced once a week or more frequently. You
should not have more than two cats per box, and if you are having litter box
behavior problems, switch immediately to one box per cat. Plastic litter
liners can make your job easier, and help keep odors from penetrating into
the plastic litter box.

The location of the litterbox is important - your cat will want some
privacy, yet will not want to feel vulnerable when he is inside the box.
Remember to make all changes gradually -- cats are creatures of habit!! If
you have recently changed the litter material itself, the inappropriate
elimination behavior could be your cat resisting the new litter. Try
reintroducing the material formerly used to see if this helps. Often, just
providing a variety of types and sizes of litter boxes, in a variety of
locations throughout your home, with a variety of litter materials, will
stop the negative behavior. Once you find out which boxes/locations/litter
material your cat prefers, you can gradually remove the others.

For serious offenders, you may need to isolate them in a small area for
awhile, such as a bathroom. Since cats naturally dislike urinating or
defecating near their food and water dishes, your kitty will most likely use
her litter box in this small area simply to avoid contaminating her food and
water. Be sure to keep the box extremely clean and praise her when she does
use her litter box. After she has gotten used to using her box again, you
can gradually increase the amount of area you give her.

NEVER punish your cat!! Speaking in harsh tones or using physical punishment
can cause your cat to avoid you, which will not solve the problem. For
sensitive cats, make sure that you also provide some quality time for the
cat to be alone just with you. This is especially important in overcrowded
situations. This special time together can include grooming and/or maybe
taking a nap together or having your cat sleep on your lap and be close. By
consistently providing this intimate one-on-one time and show of affection
on your part , you can greatly reduce your cat's level of stress and sense
of competitiveness with other members of the family.

Sounds like your cat is suffering from T.O.S. The only cure is rehoming him.

Must have been a short trip.

Well, kelly.... whatever you do, just make sure that it's the popular
thing to do at the moment. Otherwise, you might be thought of badly by
'people' like Matthew.

                                               IBen Getiner

Kelly,

I am horrified that you would say you would put your cat to sleep over this.
I feel like Matthew was just trying to point it out to you because thats
something cat lovers don't want to hear. I felt better when you said it was
in the heat of the moment. It just makes me sick to the stomach when I hear
that because some people are serious. My sisters cat peed on her bed. She had
two options. Try to resolve it or find a new home for her cat. She keeps the
cat in her room so she's not upset by the other cat. As a safety measure she
puts a shower curtain on her bed because there still is the occasional
accident. When we're home she has free run of the house because we can
supervise her. Is it extra work for us...yes..but its 100% worth it to us.
Because she loves her cat she chooses to go the extra mile to make it work. I
know how frustrating it can be to have a cat peeing everywhere so if someone
can't deal with it then i would say find a home because there are people that
love cats dearly and would deal with it like my sister does. She took the cat
from someone who didn't want to deal with it.

Kelly,

I am horrified that you would say you would put your cat to sleep over this.
I feel like Matthew was just trying to point it out to you because thats
something cat lovers don't want to hear. I felt better when you said it was
in the heat of the moment. It just makes me sick to the stomach when I hear
that because some people are serious. My sisters cat peed on her bed. She had
two options. Try to resolve it or find a new home for her cat. She keeps the
cat in her room so she's not upset by the other cat. As a safety measure she
puts a shower curtain on her bed because there still is the occasional
accident. When we're home she has free run of the house because we can
supervise her. Is it extra work for us...yes..but its 100% worth it to us.
Because she loves her cat she chooses to go the extra mile to make it work. I
know how frustrating it can be to have a cat peeing everywhere so if someone
can't deal with it then i would say find a home because there are people that
love cats dearly and would deal with it like my sister does. She took the cat
from someone who didn't want to deal with it.