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Cat Forum / Health and Behavior / December 2003

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cat's urine sample

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andr0meda - 10 Dec 2003 11:47 GMT
Xena is still on antibiotics and prescription diet. For another two weeks,
after her second urine sample showed less crystals, but still crystals in
there.
I have learned a few things but getting a urine sample.
I am ready to share my knowledge about catching a sample. Would anyone want
to know, how?
Regards,
Andr0
Al Kondo - 10 Dec 2003 13:37 GMT
I am interested in knowing how you got the sample.  I have a couple of
kittens and want to regularly test the ph of their urine so I can head
off future problems.

Al Kondo

>Xena is still on antibiotics and prescription diet. For another two weeks,
>after her second urine sample showed less crystals, but still crystals in
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>Regards,
>Andr0
andr0meda - 11 Dec 2003 10:32 GMT
Hi Al Kondo,
Sorry it took me so long to answer; it's the time difference - I am in the
'country of Oz'.
As to the sample:
The only difficult thing is to know when your cat is going to pee. This is
why I always advocate that every domestic cat should have a litter tray.
Many people think they are so smart; their cat does it in the garden. They
may be lucky - if it is particularly resistant to urinary tract diseases.
Once you can see your cat approaching the litter box, it is a piece of cake!
If you want to get a sample, all you need is to is to be prepared and ready:
You need to have: a clean, sterilized container (your vet will give you one;
I crashed mine so I had to use something else. I use small glass jam,
mustard etc. jars - they just need to be well washed, and I disinfected them
by scorching inside with boiling water.
Next thing you need is something flexible and possibly nearly flat to catch
the urine into. I use a takeaway container that is microwavable. Again, very
clean and scorched with boiling water. I have these items ready near the
litter box.
When I want a sample, I move the litter box  so that it is as much
approachable from all around as possible.
Once your cat approaches the box, and gets ready to pee, you have just
enough time to grab the 'catch tray' (e.g.. takeaway container). Wait till
your cat starts peeing. Put your 'catch tray' under its bum and...catch it!
once the cat starts the business, it won't stop till it's done.
Once you have it, transfer it straitaway into the sample bottle. Give it a
few minutes to cool, then put in the fridge if you have hours before seeing
the vet. A sample will hold in the fridge for about 24 hours.
*Additional hints: Since you have kittens, they may respond to training that
Xena and I gave each other: I used to praise her heaps for using the litter
tray. She in turn wanted to please me, and thought, that the best idea to
get me to know how well she has done, was to call me when she was ready to
make a 'deposit'. It often happens in the best part of a movie, and not
during a commercial break, but I am glad she calls me at all. Kittens learn
quickly, so praise them heaps, and they may use them same tactic to train
you.
** Hint number two: Cats usually use their box soon after a meal. Just lurk
around after their dinner and...follow them.
***Cats usually don't mind if you are present while they pee.
Good Luck!
Andr0 & >^^< :)

> I am interested in knowing how you got the sample.  I have a couple of
> kittens and want to regularly test the ph of their urine so I can head
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> >Regards,
> >Andr0
zuzu22@webtv.net - 11 Dec 2003 14:40 GMT
>Give it a few minutes to cool, then put in
>the fridge if you have hours before seeing
>the vet. A sample will hold in the fridge for
>about 24 hours.

A urine sample can start developing crystals in as little as 20 minutes
and can skew the results of a urinalysis. I don't ever recommend taking
a sample at home unless you go straight out the door to the vet. The
best sample is one taken directly from the bladder using a syringe.

Also, since Xena has had recurring problems with UTI's why are you
feeding dry food which greatly reduces her water intake? She should be
on a strictly canned diet. There has been plenty of discussion on the
group before regarding this and you should be able easily find helpful
references in the google archives using the terms "urinary tract canned
food" and "dry food water intake."

Megan

                                   
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afr - 11 Dec 2003 22:49 GMT
> >Give it a few minutes to cool, then put in
> >the fridge if you have hours before seeing
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> a sample at home unless you go straight out the door to the vet. The
> best sample is one taken directly from the bladder using a syringe.

I'll second that. My new vet told me that the urine MUST be fresh , as
crystals form in standing urine.

ava
James Messick - 14 Dec 2003 16:07 GMT
>>>Give it a few minutes to cool, then put in
>>>the fridge if you have hours before seeing
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> ava

Actually, if the sample is put on ice within 10 minutes it should be ok.
andr0meda - 12 Dec 2003 18:27 GMT
With all due regard for your rescue work and housing so many cats of your
own, I refuse to accept you opinion that my vet is a total idiot. I also
won't get into any discussion about why I think he is doing the right thing;
it would be a waste of time since your post seems to be ego-driven.
Regards,
Andr0

> >Give it a few minutes to cool, then put in
> >the fridge if you have hours before seeing
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
>
> - W.H. Murray
zuzu22@webtv.net - 13 Dec 2003 01:37 GMT
Andr0 wrote:
>With all due regard for your rescue work
>and housing so many cats of your own, I
>refuse to accept you opinion that my vet is
>a total idiot.

I never said that, and I'm wondering why you are attacking only me when
several others said the same thing WRT taking a urine sample?

>I also won't get into any discussion about
>why I think he is doing the right thing; it
>would be a waste of time since your post
>seems to be ego-driven.

I don't know WTF your problem is, but my ONLY reason for posting was
because I'm interested in Xena not continuing to have UTI's. She *keeps
getting them*, and I suspect that the dry food is a *big* factor. I have
had plenty of experience in this area with numerous cats and I know what
works. It's unfortunate you have inexplicably decided to take issue with
what I posted. I don't have any idea where you got this "ego" idea from,
but you're unnecessarily insulting and dead wrong.

Megan

                                   
Signature


"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do
nothing."

-Edmund Burke

Learn The TRUTH About Declawing
http://www.stopdeclaw.com

Zuzu's Cats Photo Album:
http://www.PictureTrail.com/zuzu22

"Concerning all acts of initiative (and creation), there is one
elementary truth the ignorance of which kills countless ideas and
splendid plans: that the moment one definitely commits oneself, then
providence moves too. A whole stream of events issues from the decision,
raising in one's favor all manner of unforeseen incidents, meetings and
material assistance, which no man could have dreamt would have come his
way."

- W.H. Murray

Phil P. - 11 Dec 2003 22:56 GMT
> Many people think they are so smart; their cat does it in the garden. They
> may be lucky - if it is particularly resistant to urinary tract diseases.

This is not such a good idea - especially if you have a male cat.  Its
absolutely imperative that you actually *see* your cat eliminate at least
once a day - otherwise you won't know if your cat is straining to urinate or
defecate which can indicate constipation or a urinary tract obstruction -
which can be fatal to a male cat.  A urinary tract obstruction produces a
pathophysiologic state equivalent to oliguric acute renal failure.

Wait till
> your cat starts peeing. Put your 'catch tray' under its bum and...catch it!
> once the cat starts the business, it won't stop till it's done.

This method is good only if you're checking pH or if the sample will be
examined for cyrstals within 30 minutes.  This collection method is
unreliable for detection of bacteria and if the sample will be cultured due
to the likelyhood of contamination.  Urine that will examined for bacteria
and cultured should be collected via cystocentesis (needle) to avoid
contamination with bacteria that normally inhabit the distal urinary tract.
Its possible to establish the absence, but not the presence, of a UTI with
urine collected by your method.

> Once you have it, transfer it straitaway into the sample bottle. Give it a
> few minutes to cool, then put in the fridge if you have hours before seeing
> the vet.

This is incorrect.  If the sample will be examined for crystals, its
imperative that absolutely fresh urine be examined.  If the urine sample is
allowed to stand and cool before its examined, crystals can form in the
sample, and/or the number of crystals already in the sample can greatly
increase -- this is called "in vitro crystallization", and will render the
sample practically useless and yield erroneous results -- which can lead to
prescribing inappropiate medication or an incorrect diet that than lead more
serious problems.

>A sample will hold in the fridge for about 24 hours.

24 hours is way too long -- false-negative cultures can occur when a urine
sample is refrigerated for >12 hours -- depending on the bacterial species
in the urine -- or if the sample is allowed to freeze.

I appreciate your well-meant intentions.  However, you might to research
your ideas a bit more before sharing them. ;)

Phil.
GovtLawyer - 19 Dec 2003 02:07 GMT
>When I want a sample, I move the litter box  so that it is as much
>approachable from all around as possible.
>Once your cat approaches the box, and gets ready to pee, you have just
>enough time to grab the 'catch tray' (e.g.. takeaway container). Wait till
>your cat starts peeing. Put your 'catch tray' under its bum and...catch it!
>once the cat starts the business, it won't stop till it's done.

I have a much simpler way.  Clean the litter box and replace the kitty litter
with shredded paper, not too much, just enough to fill the bottom and give the
kitty a sense of having something to cover its waste.  Put a few magazines
under one end of the box so that one end is higher.  When you kitty goes to the
box leave her alone.  When she leaves, the urine will have settled down at the
lower end of the box.  Use a syringe to draw some of it up for collection.
~*SooZy*~ - 19 Dec 2003 10:18 GMT
> >When I want a sample, I move the litter box  so that it is as much
> >approachable from all around as possible.
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> box leave her alone.  When she leaves, the urine will have settled down at the
> lower end of the box.  Use a syringe to draw some of it up for collection.

yes that basically how I used to do it, but with plain paper as some inks
used in magazines can ruin the sample.

I must say using the special litter the vet sells is much easier though, as
one of my cats would not wee in the box with paper in it.
andr0meda - 20 Dec 2003 02:54 GMT
Xena simply WON'T wee if the box looks any different. I know, she can hold
it for many hours, until it is back to normal. I know, eventually she will
have to, but...talk about getting a fresh sample here, huh? Watch the box
24/7? LOL!!
Andr0

> > >When I want a sample, I move the litter box  so that it is as much
> > >approachable from all around as possible.
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> I must say using the special litter the vet sells is much easier though, as
> one of my cats would not wee in the box with paper in it.
afr - 20 Dec 2003 04:34 GMT
It can be exhausting, can't it?!

ava

> Xena simply WON'T wee if the box looks any different. I know, she can hold
> it for many hours, until it is back to normal. I know, eventually she will
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> as
> > one of my cats would not wee in the box with paper in it.
andr0meda - 21 Dec 2003 09:44 GMT
Not possible for those who work for a living, and for cat food.........
Andr0:)

> It can be exhausting, can't it?!
>
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
> > as
> > > one of my cats would not wee in the box with paper in it.
Al Kondo - 11 Dec 2003 13:42 GMT
Thanks for the tips on retrieving urine from my kittens.  Both are
litter trained and are full-time house kittens.   Therefore, I am
familiar with their habits.   As you mentioned, I too have noticed
that they tend to use the litter tray shortly after a meal.  

Your tip on catching their pee when they start doing it was
surprising.  I guess I shouldn't be surprised that they will continue
once they start.... so placing a plate under them will not cause them
to stop.  I just wouldn't have thought of that.

Thanks for the tips.  I will use them as I try to regularly measure
the ph of their urine.

Al Kondo
andr0meda - 12 Dec 2003 11:10 GMT
You're welcome!
Btw, Xena is getting better all the time; her crystals have decreased
considerably; I can see that her litter box activity has improved a lot, but
she will have to produce a couple more samples before taken of the hook; but
will remain on maintenance diet for quite a while - luckily, she loves it!)
Andr0 & >^^< :)

> Thanks for the tips on retrieving urine from my kittens.  Both are
> litter trained and are full-time house kittens.   Therefore, I am
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Al Kondo
~*SooZy*~ - 16 Dec 2003 18:14 GMT
> Xena is still on antibiotics and prescription diet. For another two weeks,
> after her second urine sample showed less crystals, but still crystals in
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Regards,
> Andr0

well my vet gives us some special litter, we empty the box wash it out, put
the small bag of litter in it the cat uses it and we take the litter to the
vets in the little bag it comes in... easy :-)

before that I just used a few sheets of paper in a clean empty litter box,
 
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