Well, I know the bikes called Mountain Bikes are built sturdier (much
thicker frames), have thicker wheels & big nobby tires for 'off roading'.
Some of the high-end models even will have shocks, some on the fron fork and
some under the seat, some in the frame....  They also have anywhere from
10-21 gears. But, like everything else, some are made in who-knows-where and
are barely worth cat-poop.

Even though it's just me & hubby, we have *3*.  I have a Huffy women's bike,
a men's weird name, and DH bought one, a RoadMaster, for $60 off some guy
that he doesn't really like but has known for ages, when he was helping him
move last fall.  The Huffy we've had forever, and I'm loathe to get rid of
it just because it's a *Huffy*.  Then for Xmas a few years ago, DH bought me
another one, having forgotten about the Huffy gathering dust in the garage.

If you were nearby, I'd tell you to bring your KeeperDH over & check 'em
out - and take one with you!

Posted to NG & emailed

Basically if you want something that he is likely to enjoy riding, it isn't
going to cost under $100. Sorry, but I'd rather be completely honest about
that. That sort of price is the equivalent of our supermarket specials for
£69.99 and you end up getting a bike feeling as if it's made from lead
girders with components made of cheese. It's the quickest way to have the
bike end up unused at the back of the garage.

Bikes can look remarkably fragile & be very strong. When I was at my fattest
(weighing close to 250lbs), my standard tourer (Bianchi San Remo) could cope
well with the weight on the roads where the tarmac was less than pristine

On deciding what is the best kind of bike for him, you need to think about
what kind of riding he will reasonably expect to be doing, as there's a bike
for the job. Unless he's doing off-roading, downhilling, you really, really
really don't need suspension. *Good* suspension doesn't come cheap. A
*reasonable* suspension jobbie and you are looking at several hundreds of
dollars (UK £500 min for decent suspension).

If you are thinking of riding on tarmac & relatively smooth trails with a
good surface, think about a hybrid.

There is a USA-based Usenet group, rec.bicycles.misc where you may get
detailed information appropriate to your side of the pond as regards makes,
prices, where to purchase.

Other things I'd recommend:-

1. Don't think that he'll become Lance Armstrong overnight ;-) Start off
with short distances, done slowly. Don't be afraid to dismount & have a rest
as and when needed. When I first got back on a bike I couldn't cycle five
miles without having *several* stops. Keep up the pedalling and one of the
benefits is that you do see a noticeable improvement in fitness remarkably
quickly. Start off slow - build up distances & length of time on bike at a
pace that is comfortable. Again - there is no shame in getting off for a
rest as often as needed. The key is *enjoy it* :-)

2. Not all saddles are created equal. Be prepared to change the saddle if
the one the bike comes with is not comfortable. We all have different rear
ends and the key to a comfortable saddle is *fit*. The fit relates to the
sit bones of the rear end :-) Also - gel padded saddles are *not*
recommended for anything but the hshortest of trips. Soft, squidgy saddles
are actually less comfortable the longer you sit on one - they put pressure
on the perinium - not good.

3. Padded Lycra cycle shorts. Never leave home without a pair ;-) You don't
have to become Man In Lycra, but there is a reason experienced cyclists wear
padded Lycra cycle shorts - and "go commando" in them. The padding is in the
correct place and the Lycra stretches so there is no painful chafing on the
delicate nether regions. If you don't like advertising the fact you are
wearing Lycra cycle shorts, wear them underneath trousers. Do not cycle any
distance in jeans (denims) - it is truly the worst fabric to wear and bulky
seams chafe horribly.

4. If you can face it, wear *bright* colours. Bright means you are more
visible. If you can, take a cycling training course to learn assertive and
safe cycling. The best way to be safe is to know the rules of the road, the
law and cycle *assertively* - not aggressively - or timidly :-)

5. If you cycle at night - *LIGHTS* *LIGHTS* *LIGHTS* and *REFLECTIVES*
*REFLECTIVES* *REFLECTIVES* Over here in the UK it's white light to the
front & red light at the rear. Put it this way, I have a minimum of 4 front
lights & 3 rear lights plus I wear a safety waistcoat with acres of
retro-reflective bands on it, as well as relfectives round my ankles & arms.
Vernon, Nathan & I all go out lit up like Christmas trees when doing any
night cycling and we don't have problems. It means we can see where we are
going (no street lighting) and we can be seen by other traffic.

That's enough for now - hope it helps, but if you need any more
information - email me.

Cheers, helen s

well, if you're looking for a GOOD bike under a hundred, start scouring
yard sales, pawn shops, thrift stores, etc.   There's no way you're
going to find one brand new for that, but you might get something darn
close at an excellent price

You also might want to see if your city/state has a for sale newsgroup.
 I know we have one for edmonton.

Kristy

I'd be hunting estate and garage sales.  Lots of older folks buy these bikes
and leave them practically unused until they either die or have to move.

Jo

In addition to the suggestions from those who actually ride bikes, a
product I will recommend is Bodyglide.  It's made from a variety of
plant waxes and other non-petroleum-based ingredients and is meant to
prevent various body parts from chafing against each other or against
clothing.  As a larger person, I find it very useful for times when I
know I will be doing a fair amount of walking to prevent chafing on my
legs.  It's water-resistant but washed off easily with soap and water.
I can only find it in cycling shops.

- Denise Brennasmeowmy

I ride 100-200 miles a week, so probably have some valid expertise here.

As others have pointed out, you're not going to get anything for a hundred
bucks.  Those days are long gone.  The idea of a garage/estate sale is
appealing, if you have enough knowledge to know that what you purchase is the
correct size (this isn't as obvious as might appear) and isn't so obsolete
(such as a ten-speed) so as to make procuring replacement parts essentially
impossible.

You also need to decide whether you want a "road" bike (the traditional
enthusiast's skinny tire guy) or a "mountain" bike, or what falls in between
(the "hybrid").  It all depends on the desired balance between comfort and
speed/distance.

Bicycles are incredibly durable contraptions, although as you start moving up
the scale there are tradeoffs to achieve light weight.  I'd say concerns about
a large or heavy rider causing damage - I humously picture a pile of tubing
sitting by the road - are nonsense.  It just isn't going to happen.  Riders as
heavy as your DH and probably a lot stronger, riding long miles daily on much
more fragile machines,  don't have problems.  Relax!

Art

As a matter of fact, there are some quite nice sturdy bicycles out there.
Not necessarily made especially for larger people, but sturdy enough.
I had a Huffy Rockslide bike that we picked up in a Sports Authority
store. It's better than a department-store bike (avoid them like the
plague!), but less pricey than a real bikeshop bike.  It was a 21-speed
mountain bike that held up my 300+ lbs just fine, even on rough ground.

You'll never get one real cheap, but you won't have to spend $1000
either.  But, you might want to invest in the wider seat to accomodate
his wider seat.  I did, and it made a big difference.  Mine cost $250
at the time, about 10 years ago.

Jane