I read books about cat's training and don't know whether it's useful to you:
1. use water gun to shoot him whenever he attacks you
2. screaming to make him scare
Your cat is still small and should require much training about what's rite
and wrong. Please try your best to train him up before giving him up!

BearFX,

My advice would be to contact the veterinarians in your area and find out
who they recommend for behavior consultation.  Some vets can provide
that service to some degree, but may not have time to come to your home
for an in-home consult.  There are professionals out there that specialize
in
animal behavior.

Don't worry about the expense.  The money you spend giving Boo a chance
to stay with you will be well worth it.  Spending the money to find out
that it will not work out and he must be sent to farm-land will also give
you
some peace of mind.  There's no need to make these decisions alone.

Please let me know if I can be of any help.

~Dr. Rule
http://www.pugetsoundvet.com/

The vicious attacks you describe are really the extremest manifestations of
excitement on the part of a cat that's still pretty feral. A familiar
example of this is when you are petting a calm, purring cat and all of a
sudden it's all teeth and claws (usually a single lunge, not a sustained
kill effort). Cats get overstimulated pretty easily. they are, in fact,
exceedingly sensitive animals. I think this is why your cat goes berserk
when you walk through the room; overstimulation. Cats always have fuzzy
grasps of what role humans play in their world anyhow. This would also
explain why he cat lost control and sh.t on your bed; complete inability to
regulate it's response. This behavior is typical of Kittens of four weeks or
so (my personal favorite is the simultaneous attack-retreat-practice
grooming behavior). If you were bottle feeding an 11 week old kitten it's
safe to assume it may be underdeveloped and undersocialized (no other cats
in the house?). Hopefully this Boo character will catch up but I've known a
many adult cats (and human females for that matter) who retain the
propensity for occasional "slash-and-dash" episodes all their lives. I think
it's true that I have never known a cat hat was well loved and nurtured from
birth to do these behaviors although there are undoubtedly some
physiological states (illness, injury, toxicity) that can bring them on.

If you have read The Tribe of the Tiger (feline behavior in great cats and
house cats) you may see the value in dominating your kitten. Getting a house
cat to resist aggressive urges is based on fear (as it is with me when I
want to yank some person from their car and bust their coconut on the curb
for driving too fast on my street). Think circus cats (no, not whips and
pistols but the undeniable assertion that you are the alpha creature. I your
situation I have used loud noises (loud hand clapping and yelling NO in a
tone of voice reserved for only those occasions), and prolonged time-outs in
a carrier (15  minutes is all I can stand) and 15-30 minutes of no verbal
acknowledgement or eye contact with the cat. This with the >100 feral
kittens-cats I have socialized or tried to. My approach is predicated on the
knowledge that if I can't make the cat understand what is required of him OR
he does not meet those requirements then he is not adoptable and (after
sterilization) he becomes a colony cat. Now before you jump down my throat
about being a fascist let me clarify what these "requirements" are: No
violence (as opposed to getting carried away while playing which we all do,
right?), use the litter box (age-appropriately), respond with alarm and
contrition when I yell NO and clap my hands loudly (even if you continue to
scratch the furniture while I get Mr. Spray Bottle) and finally, meals are
served in the same lace except if you have chosen a new place to urinate
and/or sh.t then this becomes the new feeding station. You can hiss and hide
under the bed for weeks and I will still read to you every night and respect
your space (although not necessarily your taste in literature). You can
pretend to be tough and hostile and growl and meowl all you want but I know
you're scared and so it's inevitably my fault if I get scratched trying to
simultaneously convince you I am worthy of your trust and coax-coerce-cajol
you from your safety cave behind the shoepile in the closet.

None of this is anything I invented of course. It's just my experience with
what other people have suggested. My advice is worth what it costs which is
more than I can say for most Vets. Remember just because your vet could not
'find' anything to explain Boo's behavior does NOT mean there is not a
physiological cause! If I fail to find alien life on the Moon using a pair
of cheesy binoculars I'll pad my statement to reflect the thoroughness of my
examination. If I am a shrewd, prudent veterinarian I will want you back in
my office with a written log of all abnormal behaviors (Boo's behaviors, not
mine-that's not even necesary is it?) in ten days. In oter words, false
negatives are a dime-a dozen, especially in small prive-practice settings
where ultra-expensive diagnostic equipmnet is very limited even though there
maybeno shortage of expertise and caring on the pat of the vet and staff.

I hope (and believe) that Boo will be fine. The tried and true recipe is
lots of TLC but not at the expense of TNS*.

Cheers,
Alex

*TNS= Take No sh.t (i.e., every unpunished attack is tacit approval to do it
again). Does it go without saying on this ng that it is NEVER helpful to
strike a cat (like you would and should strike a dog repeatedly abiut the
head) as a mode of punishment? It could be argued that it is NEVER
acceptable human behavior to strike a cat if you have any knowledge of cats
or an iota of human sense. TNS meaans consistency with limits and
consequences and consequences does not mean any form of corporal punishment
(for cats-humans on the oether hand respond quite nicely to a solid blow to
the nose).

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