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Help! Tick Infestation!

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bearclaw@cruller.invalid - 26 May 2006 21:34 GMT
Hello, everyone. For reasons too involved to list, I have very limited
posting ability to Usenet. I can read as much as I want, however, so
please forgive my lack of quick response to answers to this query.

All last year in this rural farming area, we never saw a single tick.
Not one.

Suddenly, starting about two weeks ago, ticks seemed to be everywhere.
Our indoor cats have not been affected, but the barn cats in the area
all seem to have multiple ticks feeding. It is terrible.

I have spent the last two days reading every .edu and .gov domain
website I could find about these filthy bloodsucking fiends, and have
already begun to take some of the actions they recommend, including
cutting grass to golf-course heights, pruning all low-hanging tree limbs
and generally making the surrounding environment unwelcoming to ticks in
all three of their life stages.

However, I would like to combine these efforts with a chemical approach.
Discouragingly, I have read that the most effective (and legal)
residential insecticide for tick control is pymethrin and pymethroid.
Though 6-45 time less effective than the illegal phosphate insecticides,
anything is better than nothing.

The problem with pymethrin-based poisons is that cats are particularly
sensitive to its toxicity, or so I have read. I really do not want to
present these barn cats with anymore problems than they already face,
but the ticks also kill them.

I have recently come across a recommendation to use something called
Sevin against the ticks. I have been unable to find any reference to
Sevin's effect on mammals, cats in particular and wildlife in general.

Any help or recommendations would be GREATLY appreciated. I have
included a good email address in the Reply-To: line in the header.
Thanks in advance for any constructive response.
John Ross Mc Master - 26 May 2006 21:42 GMT
>Hello, everyone. For reasons too involved to list, I have very limited
>posting ability to Usenet. I can read as much as I want, however, so
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
>included a good email address in the Reply-To: line in the header.
>Thanks in advance for any constructive response.

Ask Philip in the group rec.pets.cats.health+behav   Or it may be
Philip P.  One of those men is a genius, the other is a know-nothing.
Just to be on the safe side, direct your query to both of them. You
will recieve a good answer, guaranteed.
John Ross Mc Master - 26 May 2006 21:44 GMT
>>Hello, everyone. For reasons too involved to list, I have very limited
>>posting ability to Usenet. I can read as much as I want, however, so
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
>Just to be on the safe side, direct your query to both of them. You
>will recieve a good answer, guaranteed.

The guy you want to ask is Phil P.  Just checked.
John Ross Mc Master - 26 May 2006 23:06 GMT
>>>Hello, everyone. For reasons too involved to list, I have very limited
>>>posting ability to Usenet. I can read as much as I want, however, so
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
>
>The guy you want to ask is Phil P.  Just checked.

Right group but you should say : Attn Phil P. in the message header to
make sure he sees it. Good luck.
TheAmazingPussyWizard@HushMail.Com - 27 May 2006 00:43 GMT
HOWEDY bearclaw,

WELCOME To The Freakin Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard's
100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL FREE
WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Forums.

I'm Jerry Howe, The Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard <{) ; ~ )  >

Here's your own FREE COPY of The Freakin Simply Amazing Puppy
Wizard's 100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL FREE
WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual <{) : ~ }  >

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                   <{#}: ~ } >           < { ~ :{@}>
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  <{#}: ~ } > http://www.tinyurl.com/7bl5u  < { ~ :{@}>
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                        <{#}: ~ } >8< { ~ :{@}>

> Hello, everyone.

You mean 'HOWEDY Miserable Lyin Gang Of Animal Abusing
Punk Thug Coward Active Acute Chronic Long Term Incurable
MENTAL CASES and PROFESSIONAL VETERINARY MALPRACTICIONER
FRAUDS and Animal Murderers,' don't you, bearclaw.

> For reasons too involved to list, I have very limited
> posting ability to Usenet. I can read as much as I want,
> however, so please forgive my lack of quick response to
> answers to this query.

The Freakin Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard DON'T EXXXPECT
nodoGdameneD ANSWERS to HIS Posts, bearclaw. You MIGHT
wanna say "THANK YOU The Freakin Simply Amazing Puppy
Wizard" but there ain't no obligation.

> All last year in this rural farming area, we
> never saw a single tick. Not one.

The Freakin Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard lives in Orlando FL
and ain't seen a flea or tick in a few years NHOWE <{): ~ ) >

> Suddenly, starting about two weeks ago, ticks seemed to be
> everywhere.  Our indoor cats have not been affected, but
> the barn cats in the area all seem to have multiple ticks
> feeding. It is terrible.

Kats can DIE from ANEMIA from infestations of blood suckin parasites.

> I have spent the last two days reading every .edu and .gov domain
> website I could find about these filthy bloodsucking fiends,

Oh, no WONder you're still lookin for the vital INFORMATION you need.

> and have already begun to take some of the actions they
> recommend, including cutting grass to golf-course heights,
> pruning all low-hanging tree limbs and generally making
> the surrounding environment unwelcoming to ticks in all
> three of their life stages.

Yeah. Looks like they been blowin smoke up your arse.

> However, I would like to combine these
> efforts with a chemical approach.

Oh, there's LOTS of veterinary approved TOXINS.

> Discouragingly, I have read that the most effective
> (and legal) residential insecticide for tick control
> is pymethrin and pymethroid.

Yeah. You can BUY THAT from your veterinary malpracticioner.

> Though 6-45 time less effective than the illegal phosphate
> insecticides, anything is better than nothing.

That so? Perhaps THAT'S HOWE COME you're postin here abHOWETS,
bearclaw. DECENT PEOPLE DO NOT POST HERE abHOWETS <{); ~ ) >

> The problem with pymethrin-based poisons is that cats are
> particularly sensitive to its toxicity, or so I have read.

Stick arHOWEND bearclaw, The Freakin Simply Amazing Puppy
Wizard is gonna give you a LESSON in PARASITOLOGY <{): ~ ) >

> I really do not want to present these barn cats with anymore
> problems than they already face, but the ticks also kill them.

Yeah. WON recent poster opted to IGNORE her barn kats and
keep her dog away from them till they ain't got bugs.

> I have recently come across a recommendation to use
> something called Sevin against the ticks. I have been
> unable to find any reference to Sevin's effect on
> mammals, cats in particular and wildlife in general.

Seems The Freakin Simply Amazing Puppy Wizard was just
talkin abHOWET usin Sevin. You PROBABLY OVERLOOKED it
what with all the CROSSPOSTS to the kat an dog groups <{): ~ ) >

> Any help or recommendations would be GREATLY appreciated.

That so? Seems we got SOME veterinary malpracticioners
who'd SELL you STUFF that'll POISON your kats <{): ~ ) >

>  I have included a good email address in the Reply-To:

Thank you.

>  line in the header.

You might wanna get yourself a NEWSREADER that has
KILLFILE abilities, bearclaw. There's a lotta UNSAVORY
posters here abHOWETS <{); ~ ) >

>> Thanks in advance for any constructive response.

>From The Annals Of Human_And_Animal_Behavior_Forensic_Sciences_
                   Research_Laboratory

Subject: revolution

HOWEDY Michael,

Michael Lane wrote:
> Does anyone use this for flea control?

It's a DEATHLY toxin.

> Also has anyone had experience with it killing ear mites?

Below you'll find a few CASE HISTORIES of it KILLIN DOGS.

>  In the info I have read it claims to kill ear mites.

It likeWIZE KILLS DOGS an KATS.

> thanks

You're welcome.

> Michael Lane

> " Say what you want and be who you are,
>  because  those who mind don't matter
> and those who matter don't mind. "
>    Dr. Seuss

Here's EVERYTHING YOU GOTTA KNOW abHOWET fleas. Here's HOWE
to prevent fleas witHOWET using the dangerHOWES toxins your
veterinary malpracticioner sells to gouge you at the EXXXPENSE
of your dog an kat's heelth and maybe even his life.

Here's a couple interestin CASE HISTORIES and some non toxic advice:

>From Human_And_Animal_Behavior_Forensic_Sciences_
             Research_Laboratory

Subject:     K9 Advantix 11-22 pounds

HOWEDY sharon aka sharon too, veterinary malpractice
office manager, mrs. veterinary malpracticioner, liar,
dog abuser, coward, animal murderin FRAUD mental case,

Sharon wrote:

> > I tried this with Maui, my 14 pound poodle and
> > he had a bad reaction to it so I have 3 of the 4
> > vials left.

BWEEEEEAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!

> > I can't return them to the vet

Didn't she BUY the POISON from her veterinary malpracticioner?

> > so I was hoping someone might want to buy them from me.

It made her dog SICK. Doesn't THAT tell you sumpthin?

> >  If anyone uses this brand and size and is
> > interested in getting a good deal on some,

It POISONS dogs.

> > please email me or post here.

You'd have to be INSANE to do THAT to your own dog.

> >  They are brand new, not expired and purchased
> > within the month.  They are still in the original
> > but opened box.  Thanks.

> First things first.

You think she should hire a lawyer?

> Call Bayer.

Did you MISSPELL LAWYER?

> The phone number should be on the package.

Look up state board of veterinary medical EXXXAMINERS and
ASK THEM HOWE COME their licensed vet POISONED her dog.

> If you bought the product through the vet, Bayer may
> reimburse you. The reaction may be from the product
> being dosed in one spot versus several.

THAT'S INSANE. And it's a LIE.

> But in any event, call the manufacturer.

Wouldn't your office GUARANTEE the products THEY SELL???

> -Sharon

Subject:     Warning Revolution Heartworm Med

From:           LUVAPOOCH
Date:           Sat, Apr 8 2000 3:00 am
Email:          luvapo...@aol.com (LUVAPOOCH)

Kelly Cruzan On 3/15/00 wrote:

I asked my Vet for a Heartworm preventive for my 2 year
old Australian Shepherd, Sage.  They recommended Revolution.
It was applied on 3/15/00.  On 3/20/00 Sage developed a cough,
but she was otherwise fine.

She had had a bath at the Vet on 3/15/00 also, so I decided
to watch her for further symptoms. On 3/23/00 she was fine
until late afternoon when she became quiet and didn't want
to play.

By 7pm that night, she had trouble opening her left eye and
whimpered when she jumped down from the couch or bed.  In
the past, Sage always had a tendency to bruise easily.

She had sensitive skin and worry an area until it bruised.
She had no trouble with her blood clotting and had been
previously spayed.

She now had bruising on her body.  When I took her to the
Vet, he asked if she had been in rat poison.  I informed
him that she was an inside dog and only went out to play
with the kids and to use the bathroom.  My neighbors have
pets and do not put out poisons.  They also asked if she
had had a blow to the head because there was blood in the
whites of her eyes that was not there yesterday.

I stated that she was not hit in the head.  I asked if it
could be the Revolution and was informed that it could not
be.  I told my vet that was the only thing that Sage had
been exposed to.

He did a CBC and her platelets were 87 and WBC count was
27,000. her Hct was 37.  He treated her for infection and
rat poisoning and sent us home.

Within 3 hours she was falling over.  I rushed her back
to the Vet and he kept her until 5pm that afternoon.  I
brought her home after they said she was doing better.

At 6pm she was again falling over and I called my Vet back
and was informed to bring her back the next day.  By 11pm,
she was bleeding from her nose and had vomited with streaks
of bright red blood.   My husband and I drove her to an ER
clinic in Savannah, GA and was told that it was either a tick
born disease or rat poisoning or a blow to the head.

I again asked if could be the Revolution and was informed no.

They kept her and treated her as my vet.  When I called at
6am, I was informed that she was having seizures but she was
otherwise stable.  I was worried about a subdural hematoma
and talked with  my Vet.

He suggested I take Sage to Charleston, SC to see a Specialist.
She arrived there at 4:30pm.  When I gave her history, I again
asked if it could be the Revolution and was informed no.  Later
that night Sage continued to have seizures and she bled into the
orbits of her eyes, but they said their was still hope.

At 6:45am they called and said Sage had arrested and
was on a ventilator. We asked that they let her go.
This has been devastating to my family.

We loved that dog.  She was a family member.  At 10am, the
clinic called and asked for an autopsy.  They informed me
that another dog had died last month there, with symptoms
the same as Sage.  The dog was an inside dog and the only
thing different was that the owner had started Revolution.

The dog died of low platelets and intracrannial
hemorrhage just like Sage.

The vet in Charleston called the Revolution people and
they are paying for Sages autopsy.  They also paid for
the other dogs autopsy. That autopsy showed low platelets
and intracrannial hemorrhage from a toxin. (? Revolution
was the only toxin  the owners had given).

I will not know the results of the autopsy for a month,
but I believe it was the Revolution.  If 2 dogs have died
in the Savannah-Charleston area in the last month, how
many nation wide.

Please spread the word for owners to be careful about
using this drug on their dogs. No dog should suffer
like my Sage suffered.

Thanks for Listening,
Terri Eddy
Rincon, GA

>From The Annals Of Human And Animal Behavior Forensic Sciences
               Research Laboratory

Subject:        Advantix and Mood Change

HOWEDY brian.lange,

brian.la...@gmail.com wrote:
> We have a 7 month old golden retreiver pup and when
> we give him his monthly Advantix for flea and tick,
> for a good 24 hours, his mood completely changes ...
> wants to be by himself, hides under tables, chairs, etc.

WELCOME to the world of veterinary approved poisons.

>  Basically, he becomes a completely different "person."

Naaah? The EXXXPERTS tell us that's GOOD for dogs.

> Has anyone else had similar experiences?

Yeah. Most of the DOG LOVERS here got DEATHLY ILL and
DEAD DOGS on accHOWENT of their mishandling and inapupriate
veterinary malpractices.

Have you had your dog surgically sexually mutilated yet?

Better hurry. Oh, bye the bye, ONLY LIARS DOG ABUSERS
COWARDS and ACTIVE ACUTE CHRONIC LONG TERM
INCURABLE MENTAL CASES post here abHOWETS.

> Thanks.

You're welcome!

From:           showdogbark -
Date:           Sun, Apr 30 2006

Garlic is not to be used in large does in the mixture
I mentioned, the other things that are offensive to
fleas is the Engevta Yeast and the Flake yeast, some
people find just using the two yeasts enough of a flea
deterrent. Powdered garlic is much easier to use in
about one teaspoon to two cups of the yeast mixture.
It does not take much and that is not logical that
there is a temptation to use more as it is not addicting,
and as I mentioned it is not the garlic alone that works
it is the mixture of the yeasts along with it.

The smell of the yeasts is not appealing to fleas.

Another method that works for many people is to take
a teaspoon of the mixture for a severe case and rub
it into the dog's fur, for as I said the fleas do not
like the smell, and then after that feed it to the
dog sprinkled on it's food twice a day.

What would a vet know except something that would be
self serving to sell, yeast and garlic do not line
their pockets.

Show Dog

From:           showdogbark
Date:           Sun, Apr 30 2006 6:09 pm
Email:          "showdogbark" <jotnarin...@yahoo.com>

I have used half Engevita Yeast and half Flake yeast
with Garlic Powder, not tablets along with Dulce or
Kelp powder for fleas for years on my dogs and cats
in their diet daily, and along with absolutelty no
feas, they love the taste.

Often if a dog comes to visit and they are not hungry
due to being left without their owner and are avoiding
their food, just putting the mix on their food makes
them very interested in eating. My friends have used
this mixture for years and also no fleas.

I certainly agree with Jerry that chemical so called
solutions to fleas are only of help to the chemical
companies and the pockets of vets to be fattened.

Also Dr. Pitcairn is a fabulous source of info. But
when it comes to fleas it is the above mixture I
mentioned that for 20 years has been my solution
and my friends solutions also.

Remember it must be powder and organic garlic not
just any powder on a shelf with additives.

Stay away from drugs for yourselves and for dogs and cats.

Be Well, and love your animals by being nonviolent with them
and that means using methods of training like Jerry's and the
First Nations along with no chemical garbage as so called
nutrition or help with medical problems like fleas.

Do Good, Be Good, Be One.

From:           Sharon
Date:           Sun, Apr 30 2006 11:03 pm
Email:          "Sharon" <askformya...@nospamhotmail.com>

I think it's best to think of garlic as it relates to
fleas like sprinkling sage around the edges of a kitchen
to keep ants out. The ants are still there - alive -
procreating, just like the fleas will be.

Further, fleas can cause issues with the humans in the
house. It's better to ask your vet about a product that
will kill all stages of the fleas' life cycle.

-Sharon

From:           Sharon
Date:           Wed, Aug 20 2003 6:59 pm
Email:          "Sharon" <requestaddyfi...@nospam.com>

> But, the vet did.  Apparently, not just mine.

Must be specific to heavy tic infested areas. I guess where
we live if people use their Advantic /frontline/Revolution
regularly (like birth control pills) they are covered. It
really works well for those fleas and tics. However, I can
see that in other areas of the country there would be different
recommendations based on need. I .... think.... we're..... lucky!

-Sharon

From:           Amy Dahl
Date:           Fri, Jul 2 1999 12:00 am
Email:          Amy Dahl <a...@oakhillkennel.com>

I don't have directly relevant experience, but would like
to suggest the usual--get a second opinion!  Especially
before electing surgery.

I once had an experience involving cataracts and a kitten
which woke me up to how block-headed a veterinary specialist
can be (of course, you have to take my word for something the
vet. ophthalmologist did not).

I had adopted two "rescued" kittens that were found at the
age of about 1 day and raised on a foster mother.  They had
various health problems, did not thrive, etc.  Everything
kind of went together--they were poor, so even with up-to-date
flea treatments couldn't fight off the fleas, so they were
anemic, stayed poor, etc.  When it became clear that loving
care, good food, and flea treatments weren't enough I took
them to my vet (who is very good).  They were four months
old and about as big as the average 5-6 week kitten.

My vet treated them with several things, of which I remember
Ivomec for ear mites and feline Program (which had just come
out), tested and vaccinated for feline AIDS, which I had
never heard of.

The next morning, the male kitten was blind!  The pupils of
his eyes were milky blue--completely clouded by cataracts.
I just happened to have an appointment to CERF a bitch, so
I took the kitten along.  The vet. ophthalmologist told me,
"he's got congenital cataracts."  Well, I know what congenital
means.  I had already explained to her that his eyes had been
fine before taking him to the vet the previous day.  She
didn't say, you're wrong, you didn't notice.  She didn't
acknowledge the discrepancy between my observation and her
statement.  She just repeated "they're congenital cataracts.
He's been this way since birth."  She informed me about the
surgery and the cost--$1600 per eye at that time.

Twilight Zone theme here.  I don't know about the rest of you,
but when face with this level of adamant assertion, I question
what I know.  I was sure he'd been able to jump and climb, that
the bumping into things and crying was new that morning.  When
I got home I called my vet to verify that the cat had been able
to see the previous day.

Because my vet had a couple of emergencies that day (Friday)
I didn't have the kitten put down.  Lo and behold, by Monday
his pupils seemed to respond to light and he wasn't bumping
into things any more!  The cloudiness gradually faded away
to nothing (to my unpracticed eye).

Then the next month I treated him with Program again and the
cataracts came back--not as severe, but this time they left
him with permanent cloudiness in one eye.  My vet called her
ophthalmology professor from vet school and he mentioned the
possibility of "toxic cataracts," certainly not recorded as
a consequence of Program, but some medical treatments
(antibiotics, I think) cause cataracts in animals which are
in poor health--and sometimes these cataracts resolve.

I take the moral of this story to be that, just because
you are talking to a veterinary specialist, doesn't mean
they necessarily know what they're talking about.

--
Amy Frost Dahl    Retriever Trainin  phone: (910) 295-6710
Oak Hill Kennel & Handling   email:  a...@oakhillkennel.com
Pinehurst, NC 28370       (http://www.oakhillkennel.com)

From:           Stephanie
Date:           Wed, Sep 4 2002 6:25 pm
Email:          "Stephanie" <steph...@gt.rr.com>

FYI...My black lab Sam was on Senitinel and then when
Revolution came out I switched.  Well after being on
prevention all of his life.

Last year he got heartworms!

Treatment was paid for by Pfizer(the maker of Revolution).

We will not know until next February if he is free of the
heartworms.  It was very scary.  We live in Texas and have
allot of mosquitoes, but I did not think it possible to get
heartworms if you are on prevention.

Good Luck!

               --------

From:           G Griffeth
Date:           Mon, Sep 24 2001 1:39 am
Email:          "G Griffeth" <gcgriffet...@yahoo.com>

Both are effective.

In general, Frontline is more gentle, Advantage is faster.

Both have been associated with reactions which have caused
seriious morbidity or mortality in dogs and cats.  These
reactions are very rare, however, being much less common
than toxic reactions to the oldfashioned dips, etc.

I use FrontlinePlus on my 4 cats and 1 dog monthly.
I get it free, but got Advantage and Revolution free
also.

Advantage caused local hair loss on one cat, so we switched.

Before that, we used grey-market Advantage.  I believe
the vet only rules to be a marketing ploy.  It is true,
however, that greymarket Advantage or Frontline are not
guaranteed by the maker for efficacy or *safety*.

If you have friends with pets, or have more than one,
large size doses are almost the same price as small ones,
and can be easily divided between animals.  We use one
giant Frontline per month on 5 beasties.

***Do Not Inject These Drugs Ever***
Use a hypodermic syringe to accurately measure the dose.
***Do Not Inject These Drugs Ever***

Sorry for the warning label.

You may also consider Revolution and Capstar.

I personally do not recommend either for routine use.

There are many informed people who disagree with that,
however.   Revolution works well on ear mites in cats.
Do not instill it into the ear, though...

Bottom line: find a cheap source of Frontline (preferably
an iconoclastic vet) and split the extra large doses with
many friends.

Gg

             ---------

HOWEDY jst,

jst wrote:
> Sharon wrote:
> > What are you doing for flea prevention?

Allergies are a result of compromised auto-immune
system. Auto-immune systems are COMPROMISED by STRESS,
insufficient diet, and TOXINS. ALL commercial dog food
is GARBAGE.

sharon is a veterinary malpractice office manager and
mrs. veterinary malpracticioner and proven lyin dog
abusing punk thug coward active acute chronic long
term incurable mental case.

She SELLS toxins and prescription garbage diets for her
livin when she ain't SELLIN MUTILATIONS and MURDERIN dogs
and comfortin their owners while acceptin their payments.
Shell fleece you as fast as her own veterinary malpractice
customers..

> Frontline,

HOWEDY Nell71,

> Nell71 wrote:
> Re: Broken Heart Needs Answers/Help
> My dog has died

That's too bad Nell71. The Freakin Simply Amazing
Puppy Wizard will PREY for him <{): ~ (  >

> and I was hoping if I give you the details that you could
> shed some light on what could have happened to her.

Could be. The DOG LOVERS you're askin here abHOWETS got
very long posted case histories of hurtin intimidatin an
murderin innocent defenseless dumb critters through
TRADITIONAL abuse mishandling and veterinary care and
malpractice <{): ~ (  >

DECENT PEOPLE DO NOT POST HERE abHOWETS <{) : ~ (  >

                  ---------

> we live in the city but have a LOT of rabbits and
> squirrels in the area and they carry fleas like crazy.

"Crazy"? You want CRAZY? The only people who've replied
to you thus far are INSANE LYIN DOG ABUSING COWARDS with
very long verifiable posted case histories of THE SAME
PROBEM your dog got with NO CURE or solutions.

HOWEDY sharon aka sharon too veterinary malpractice office
manager and mrs. veterinary malpracticioner,

Sharon wrote:
> > Advantix is good, but it is HIGHLY toxic to cats! Even
> > if you dog lays down and leaves a small amount (if its
> > still wet) and the cat licks it,it can kill the cat. If
> > the cat grooms the dog even after if dry it will kill the cat.
> That's not completely true.

Sez you sharon too? You've got a very long posted
case history of hurtin intimdiatin mutilatin and
murderin innocent defenseless dumb critters an lyin
abHOWET it <{): ~ ( >

> Should it be applied to the cat? No.

Perhaps is shouldn't be applied to dogs either?

> It takes no more than 12 hours to absorb into the skin.
> Separate the pets if it concerns you. But I can tell you
> that we've had no issues at our practice and the folks at
> both Merial (Frontline) and Bayer (Advantix) repeatedly
> mention  that if it were the case, these preventives would
> never be on the market.

You think the SALES REP is gonna tell you the truth?
Perhaps you just fell HOWETA a cabbage truck an landed
on your head?

> As with any product or medication, directions must be
> followed and application to 4 spots is a must. It absorbs
> quickly this way.

You'll find PLENTY of alternatives to TOXINS in Dr. Pitcairn's
books on Natural Pet Care. HOWEver, HOWER DOG LOVERS PREFER to
buy toxins from their TRUSTED veterinary malpracticioners
like we got RIGHT HERE whom The Freakin Simply Amazing Puppy
Wizard has IDENTIFIED EXXXPOSED and DISCREDITED as bein LIARS
DOG ABUSERS FRAUDS and MALPRACTICIONERS <{): ~ ( >

        Animal Behavior Forensic Sciences Research Laboratory

Subject: Re: Canadavets.com

HOWEDY tom,

Tom wrote:
> Is anyone familiar with this site?  I just ordered
> Frontline plus from there.  Prices are good, and I
> do realize the product is manufactured for Australia,
> but I presume that it's the same medicine (different
> label) as I would pay twice as much for here.

Do you BELIEVE frontline or ANY systemic POISON is SAFE?

WOULD YOU BET YOUR OWN LIFE ON IT?

Subject: Re: My dog has flees

HOWEDY Prophet,

Prophet wrote:
> What should i do?

1st, You should go to The Amazing Puppy Wizard's Archives
on Google and other fine pubicly archived news group
search engines and type in the correct SPELLIN and
see what The Amazing Puppy Wizard SEZ HE DOES to live
in a flea and other parasite free environment.

2nd, DO NOT believe the professional lying dog abusing
punk thug coward mental cases who SELL training lessons
and promote unethickal veterinary practices like toxic
substances and surgical sexual mutilation which may harm
your dogs and family.

3rd, if you DON'T FIND a definive authentic Amazing
Puppy Wizard's Post then ASK HIM HOWE to accomplish
whatever your needs are.

4th, DECENT PEOPLE DO NOT POST HERE so if you see
someWON giving you contradictory information, KNOW
that they're a miserable lying dog abusing punk thug
coward and DISREGARD them. Better yet, tell them to
get the heel HOWETA The Amazing Puppy Wizard's 100%
CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL FREE
WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual Forums.

Here's your own FREE COPY of The Amazing Puppy Wizard's'
100% CONSISTENTLY NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL
FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual:

http://www.tinyurl.com/7bl5u

Please study my manual using a text to speech reader.
There's a free one at http://www.ultrahal.com

If you need any additional free help call me
ANY TIME at 407-425-5092.

Here's The Amazing Puppy Wizard's most recent post
on non toxic flea CON-TROLL methods and treatments:

Subject: Re: Excerpt: Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide
                  to Natural Health
                  for Dogs & Cats

HOWEDY Jane,

Thank you for the valuable information. Dr.Pitcairn's
works are EXXXCELLENT, to say the least. In addition
to Pitcairn's fleating (Ouch!) tips, I recommend insect
growth regulators (IGR's) and beneficial nematodes.

For daily grooming / inspection I always have a "Q-Tip"
soaked in alcohol to quickly swab them up off the dog
and dunk it back into a small bottle of alocohol to
dispatch them.

Of curse, cleanlieness is next to G-dlieness!

Thank you again,

Yours,
The Amazing Puppy Wizard <{); ~ ) >

Jane Smith wrote:

The following is an excerpt from the book Dr. Pitcairn's
Complete  Guide to  Natural Health for Dogs & Cats by
Richard H. Pitcairn, DVM, PhD, and Susan Hubble Pitcairn
Published by Rodale; September 2005;$18.95US/$25.95CAN;
1-57954-973-X Copyright © 2005 Richard H. Pitcairn, DVM,
PhD, and Susan Hubble Pitcairn Safe, Effective Flea Control

The best approach to controlling fleas is to start with
the least toxic and most natural choices, resorting to
stronger measures only if reasonable control is not achieved.

As a prerequisite to any flea- control program, I recommend
building up your animal's health and resistance as much as
possible through a healthy diet and lifestyle.

Along with that, it's important to practice thorough sanitation
and cleaning. Understanding the life cycle of the flea makes it
clear why cleaning is so important. Adult fleas live about three
to four months.

During that time they are steadily laying tiny white eggs on
your pet that look like dandruff or salt crystals. Flea eggs
hatch out into larvae that live in the cracks and crevices of
rugs, upholstery, blankets, floors, sand, earth, and the like.

Because these tiny larvae cannot jump or travel very far (less
than an inch), they feed on the black specks of dried blood
("flea dirt") that fall off along with the eggs during grooming
and scratching.

After one to two weeks, the larvae go through a cocoon stage
(pupa). A week or two later, they hatch out as small fleas
that hop onto the nearest warm body passing by (usually your
pet -- sometimes you!), bite it for a meal of blood, and then
start the whole process all over again. This cycle takes anywhere
from 2 to 20 weeks, depending on the temperature of the house or

environment.

During summer -- flea season -- the entire cycle is usually
just 2 weeks long. That's why fleas increase so rapidly at
that time. The bad news is that, no matter how many adult
fleas you manage to kill, numerous future fleas are developing
in the environment simultaneously.

The good news is that these eggs, larvae, pupa, and the flea
dirt they feed upon can be sucked up by a vacuum cleaner or
washed away in the laundry. And because the developing fleas
are so immobile, they are most concentrated wherever your pet
sleeps, so you know where to focus your efforts.

Your important ally in the battle against fleas is cleanliness,
both for your pet and your home, particularly in your pet's
sleeping areas.

Regular cleaning interrupts the life cycles of the fleas and
greatly cuts down on the number of adult fleas that end up on
your pet, especially if you act before flea season begins. So
start your program with these nontoxic steps.

Steam clean your carpets at the onset of flea season (or
whenever you begin your flea-control program). Though it
is somewhat expensive, steam cleaning is effective in killing
flea eggs.

Thoroughly vacuum and clean floors and furniture at least
once a week to pick up flea eggs, larvae, and pupae.
Concentrate on areas where your pet sleeps and use an
attachment to reach into crevices and corners and under
heavy furniture. If there is a heavy infestation, you may
want to put a flea collar (or part of a flea collar) in
the vacuum bag to kill any adult fleas that get sucked
up and might crawl away. Or else immediately dispose of
the bag or its contents because it can provide a warm,
moist, food-filled environment for developing eggs and
larvae.

Mop vinyl floors. Launder your pet's bedding in hot, soapy
water at least once a week. Dry on maximum heat. Heat will
kill all stages of flea life, including the eggs.

Remember that flea eggs are very slippery and easily fall
off bedding or blankets. So carefully roll bedclothes up
to keep all the flea eggs contained on the way to the
washing machine. Bathe the animal with a natural flea-control
shampoo. Use a nontoxic shampoo as recommended above, such
as one containing d-limonene (dogs only).

Use a flea comb to trap and kill fleas that are on your pet.
Most pet stores carry special fine-toothed combs that trap
fleas for easy disposal. Make a regular habit of flea-combing
your pet while you watch TV or talk on the phone. Depending on
the degree of infestation and the time of year, this might be
daily (at the onset of the flea season), weekly, or monthly.

Gently but thoroughly comb as many areas as your pet will allow,

especially around the head, neck, back, and hindquarters. As you
trap the little buggers, pull them off the comb and plunge them
into a container of hot, soapy water (or dip the comb and pull
the flea off underwater). Cover your lap with an old towel to
catch extra clumps of hair and flea dirt and to wipe the comb
off as you work.

When you're finished, flush the soapy water and fleas down the
toilet. If your pet goes outdoors, follow these steps as well.
Mow and water your lawn regularly. Short grass allows sunlight
to penetrate and warm the soil, which kills larvae. Watering
drowns the developing fleas.

Encourage ants. Perhaps I should say "do not discourage ants."
They love to eat flea eggs and larvae. This is another reason
not to use pesticides that kill all the insects in your yard.
"Sterilize" bare-earth sleeping spots.

If your pet likes to sleep or hang out in a certain bare or
sandy area, occasionally cover the spot with a heavy black
plastic sheet on a hot, sunny day. Rake up any dead leaves
and other debris first. The heat that builds up under the
plastic does an excellent job of killing fleas and larvae.
Of course, this is not appropriate to use where you want
to preserve live grass or plants.

Apply agricultural lime on grassy or moist areas. This helps
to dry out the fleas. Rake up any dead leaves and grassy debris
first.

Along with the above steps, you might try these methods to
repel fleas that may try to jump back on your pet, especially
those harder-to-kill ones hanging out in the backyard.

Use an herbal flea powder. You'll find them in pet stores
and natural food stores, or you can make your own. Combine
one part each of as many of these powdered herbs as you can
find: eucalyptus, rosemary, fennel, yellow dock, wormwood,
and rue. Put this mixture in a shaker-top jar, such as a jar
for parsley flakes.

Apply the flea powder sparingly to your pet's coat by brushing
backward with your hand or the comb and sprinkling it into the
base of the hairs, especially on the neck, back, and belly. To
combat severe infestations, use several times a week. Afterward,
put your animal friend outside for awhile so the disgruntled
tenants vacate in the yard and not in your house.

Some herbal flea powders also contain natural pyrethrins, which
are not strong flea-killers but do seem to greatly discourage
them. Use an herbal flea collar. These are impregnated with
insect-repellent herbal oils. Some are made to be "recharged"
with the oils and used again. Buy them at natural food stores.

Try a natural skin tonic. The animal herbalist Juliette de
Bairacli-Levy recommends this lemon skin tonic, which many
of my clients successfully use on their pets for a general
skin toner, parasite repellent, and treatment for mange.

Thinly slice a whole lemon, including the peel. Add it to 1
pint of near-boiling water and let it steep overnight. The
next day, sponge the solution onto the animal's skin and let
it dry. You can use this daily for severe skin problems involving
fleas. It is a source of natural flea-killing substances such
as d-limonene and other healing ingredients found in the whole
lemon.

Add ample nutritional or brewer's yeast and garlic to the diet.
Some studies show yeast supplementation significantly reduces
flea numbers, though others indicate no effect. My experience
with using yeast is that it has some favorable effect, particularly
if the animal's health is good. You can also rub it directly into
the animal's hair.

Many people also praise the value of garlic as a flea repellent,
though so far studies do not support this.

If these methods do not control the fleas sufficiently,
take the following steps. Get your carpets treated with
a special anti-flea mineral salt. There have been some
developments in safe flea control. My clients report
success with a service that applies or sells relatively
nontoxic mineral salts for treating carpets. (Fleabusters
is the company recommended.)

Effective for up to a year, the products safely kill fleas
and their developing forms over a few week's time.

Once or twice a year, sprinkle natural, unrefined diatomaceous
earth along walls, under furniture, and in cracks and crevices
that you cannot access with a vacuum. This product, which
resembles chalky rock, is really the fossilized remains of
one-celled algae. Though direct skin contact is harmless to
pets and people, it is bad news for many insects and their
larvae, including fleas.

The fine particles in the earth kill insects by attacking
the waxy coating that covers their external skeletons. The
insects then dry out and die.

I do not recommend using diatomaceous earth frequently or
directly on your animal -- mostly because of the irritating
dust that can be breathed in by both of you. It is also messy.
Be careful about breathing it in. Wear a dust mask when applying.
It is not toxic, but inhaling even the natural, unrefined form
of this dust can irritate the nasal passages.

Important: Do not use the type of diatomaceous earth that is
sold for swimming pool filters. It has been very finely ground,
and the tiny particles can be breathed into the lungs and cause
chronic inflammation.

Use a spray or powder containing pyrethrins or natural pyrethrum.
These are the least toxic of all the insecticides used on pets,
and they are found in both conventional and natural flea-control
products. For a more lasting effect, use a microencapsulated
product, which is perhaps labeled "slow release." Repeat the
applications as you simultaneously use the carpet treatment
system or diatomaceous earth. This will help kill both adult
fleas and developing fleas at the same time.

Reprinted from: Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health
for Dogs & Cats by Richard H. Pitcairn, DVM, PhD, and Susan Hubble

Pitcairn © 2005. Richard H. Pitcairn, DVM, PhD, and Susan Hubble
Pitcairn Permission granted by Rodale, Inc., Emmaus, PA 18098.
Available wherever books are sold or directly from the publisher
by calling (800) 848-4735 or visit their website at www.rodalestore.com

Authors Richard H. Pitcairn, DVM, PhD, opened the Animal
Natural Health Center, a clinic offering only holistic
animal care, in 1985. Recently retired from practice, he
teaches post-graduate courses in homeopathic medicine to
veterinarians.

Susan Hubble Pitcairn was a major contributor to the first
two editions of this book. As the third edition goes to press,
she is splitting her time between artistic pursuits and the
support of positive social change. For more information,
please visit www.drpitcairn.com

From: "Dr. Von" <drv...@mindspring.com>
Date: 12 Sep 2005 10:52:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Clicker Training for Dogs Newsgroups?

Jen, your request for a positive only dog training list,
needs the same answer as I give the folk who ask why I
don't have a list for what I do with biofeedback.

The method is so simple, and if you adopt it and relate
to your dog in such a positive manner you won't have any
more problems and there is no need for any more technique.

With Puppies we Ph.D. psychologists have been outflanked
by the entirely practical and effective methods described
in http://www.tinyurl.com/7bl5u.  Free download, nothing
sold, no mailing list, no distribution of your name. Free
support if needed.

With ADHD kids I provide similar information at
www.drbiofeedback.com and there is no need for
a list dealing with problems with kids.  Apply
as directed and have happy healthy doggies or
kiddies.

Not difficult.

George von Hilsheimer, Ph.D., F.R.S.H.

P.S. jerk and choke, spanking, shocking, scruff shake,
choke, chin chucks, all those negatives, denial of
affection etc. are harmful, dranging, obscenities.

You might want to consider Pavlov's typology to
understand "hard and soft dogs" - essentially he
taught that there are outward and inward responding
organisms in weak and strong nervous systems and if
you grasp this firmly you'll shape your training
methods effectively.

Punishment ALWAYS deranges behavior, and so is
recommended and given only by deranged humans.

Of course, it doesn't matter if we are talking
dogs, cats, people, sheep, even husbands.

Dr. Von

Here's HOWE The Freakin Simply Amazing  Puppy Wizard feeds his dogs:

            Breakfast At The Puppy Wizard's -
                  Chez du Chien -
                 Gourmet Recipies

HOWEDY People,

Unbeknownst to yourselves, this has been a difficult
couple weeks for Your Puppy Wizard. Not to complain,
but he's been necessarily temporarily abandoned by
his Mrs.Puppy Wizard who had to attend to affairs out
of town for nine days.

Left alone, helpless and hapless to cope with domestic
and personal needs, to fend for HISSELF and his pups by
his own devices, his Mrs. Puppy Wizard HOWEver, is
considerate and foresighted enough to prepare His table
before him, in advance, and even calls to remind him to
breath, when necessary.

Your Puppy Wizard requires little from the physical realm,
existing primarily on prahana and nirvana as his staple diet.
HOWEver, his puppies unfortunately cannot thrive in the
physical world without the grounding effects of the evils
of wholesome food.

Mrs. Puppy Wizard prepares daily, fresh, well balanced
HOWES cooked meals. When Mrs. Puppy Wizard travels
occasionally, she prepares for the days of lean in advance,
by freezing two weeks worth of puppy chow and posting the
culinary instructions on the Puppy Wizard's coffee can, the
only physical need The Puppy Wizard requires, beyond his
internet connection and of course, his Mrs. Puppy Wizard
and puppies. But those are givens, naturally.

Mrs. Puppy Wizard prepares 2 meals a day. The
following recipe is for about a 100 pound dog:

Breakfast is half pound raw ground turkey, green
Source, and 1gram vitamin C, 200mg Omega 3 fish
oil and a *Iams cookie *(cause she LIKES to).

Dinner is 2 cups cooked rice, a tablespoon of rolled
oats and an ounce of hamburg. When the rice and oats
cool, add half cup pinto or similar beans, ground fine
in the food processor with equal amounts raw collard or
similar greens or your dog's favorite vegetable or cabbage,
a tablespoon or two Olive or Cannola oil, half clove garlic,
mixed with 1/2 pound raw ground turkey, a good vitamin /
mineral supplement (Green Source for People), calcium and
magnesium, 1 gram vitamin C, 200mg Omega 3 fish oil.

Addition of table scraps is encouraged, bear in mind
salt can be dangerous. The Puppy Wizard's diet is
environmentally friendly and will not produce noxiHOWES
gasses provided the vegetable and beans are ground
finely and because the Green Source contains digestive
enzmyes. Chicken necks are an EXXXCELLENT source of
thyroid hormones.

Of curse, that's just a BASIC guide. You may add fish
(canned mackrel is cheap and EXXXCELLENT) or chitlins,
liver or anything not too high in salt or preservatives.

               BHOWEN APETITE!

From:           showdogbark
Date:           Tues, May 2 2006 1:13 pm
Email:          "showdogbark" <jotnarin...@yahoo.com>
Groups:                 rec.pets.dogs.health

Sharon,
I understand your frustrations from your practice with
your husband. I know a couple of vets myself and a few
assistants. The end of the business that you described
is hard and emotionally draining.

Yes vets do sacrifice and put in long hours and their
family is involved in the long hours and irregular hours
put in, there is a very hard side to the job.

It sounds like you get close to many of the animals that
come in especially the ones that come in long term.

I understand your feelings about the euthanasia part
of the job, although it is often overdone, I agree
that sometimes it is necessary, like with my angel
dog Ruby who had a broken neck from spondalosis and
she was put down in the most compassionate way while
I was holding her along with my husband, and the
interesting thing about it was when he came with
the needle she sweetly closed her eyes as though she
sensed she would have relief from the pain and it did
seem as though she embraced death by doing that. The
parting was very hard and at the same time very spiritual.

This vet is a country vet and does not perform esoteric
tests he works in the old fashioned way and tries simple
things first, he works from his own large farm and saves
costs and is sweet like a border collie himself.

The vets I am talking about are the city vets who are so
nice and reasonable the first few times and then out come
the expensive tests and drugs. For instance one time when
Ruby needed surgery for an accident he prescribed a 90
dollar anti-inflammatory for her, well she threw up from
it and my friend who worked for a vet when she was young
told me to use enteric coated generic aspirin and it worked
and she did not throw up and had pain relief.

My son gets the same thing with his dog, esoteric tests
and expensive drugs so he researches it and suggests and
consults with the vet and he no longer is getting gouged.

Perhaps the vets you know are reasonable and kind however
surely you must agree that the profession deserves allot
to be answered about when it comes to exploitation.

Consumer fraud and manipulation is at an all time high
and that includes the vets.

Of course there are many good ones who try and do their
best from their own medical knowledge that can be on the
pharmaceutical side of the training along with a genuine
belief in all the tests, of course to pay for the equipment
it helps to believe in the tests.

It is a complicated subject and I certainly sympathies
with you about the dark side of the business that is
hard for you and your husband.

I am sorry for the loss of your angel. May she rest in peace.

Show Dog Bark

P.S.  I never did pretend to be Jerry's dog.

I do like Jerry and Barbara very much I even went and
visited with them in Orlando. They were very polite and
Jerry picked me up at the airport and Barbara made me
dinner. They were the most gracious hosts and made me
very welcome.

He really is a third generation dog trainer and his
methods are new and refreshing.

I learned much more about them by speaking with him
about some of the ideas behind the methods.

They welcomed me into their home and yet I had only
met them through this site.

The man is sincere kind and very likable. His wife
is a saint and very loving and hard working.

When my husband came down to see me he was made very
welcome also and he also was impressed by Jerry's love
for dogs.

I think Jerry is not understood sometimes because his
methods are so different from the main stream. But his
intentions are good and effective results are there.

And he has had 45 years of experience and evidence
that he knows what he is doing. Like him or not, it
certainly is worth listening to his ideas as he comes
from a loving, knowledgeable place.

Do Good, BE Good, Be One.
Sow Dog Bark

       ----------------------------------

                    ("`-''-/").___..--''"`-._
                    `6_ 6  )   `-.  (     ).`-.__.`)
                    (_Y_.)'  ._   )  `._ `. ``-..-'
                   _..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,'
                  ((('   (((-(((''  ((((

     |\            _.-'~~""'~`'~)
    /, ~-,__,,,.'~      ,-;;--''
   |,4) ./  '     ;    ;/'
  '-~~;'@        (   ; ;
  _.--''    _.-_..'  .;.'
 (,_..----''' (,..--''

  Meow

 /\_/\
(='.'=)
(")_(")

/),,/)
( ' ; ')  kiss me
(,,)-(,,)

/),,/)
('  ; ')  kiss me here
(,,)-(,,)

 /),,/)
(  ; ' )  kiss me here
(,,)-(,,)

 /),,/)
(   ; )  kiss me here
(,,)-(,,)

   /)
(  *  ) and KISS ME HERE!
(,,)-(,,)

    |\    _,,,---,,_
  /,`.-'`'    -.  ;-;;,_
 |,4-  ) )-,_..;\ (  `'-'  Ahhh, THANK YOU!
'---''(_/--'  `-'\_)

                   The Amazing Pussy Wizard <{@); ~ } >

                        <{#}: ~ } >8< { ~ :{@}>
                   <{#}: ~ } >           < { ~ :{@}>
            <{#}: ~ } >                         < { ~ :{@}>
         <{#}: ~ } > http://www.tinyurl.com/7bl5u  < { ~ :{@}>
            <{#}: ~ } >                         < { ~ :{@}>
                   <{#}: ~ } >           < { ~ :{@}>
                        <{#}: ~ } >8< { ~ :{@}>

         Please DON'T BE The Amazing Pussy Wizard's PREY.

                      IT AIN'T PRETTY.

                        <(@}; ~ } >
Ted Davis - 27 May 2006 01:52 GMT
>Hello, everyone. For reasons too involved to list, I have very limited
>posting ability to Usenet. I can read as much as I want, however, so
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>Our indoor cats have not been affected, but the barn cats in the area
>all seem to have multiple ticks feeding. It is terrible.

Yep, here too.

I don't think there is a good, cat-safe, chemical for general tick
control, but there certainly is for the cats themselves.

As you said, a couple of weeks ago the ticks - and fleas too -
populations and cat infestations suddenly exploded - I was picking up
half a dozen flea bites and one or two ticks a day myself from those
the cats brought in.  My cats were almost due for their monthly
Frontline dose anyway so I dosed them.  Two days later, both ticks and
fleas in the house and on the cats dropped of to almost nothing.  The
cats do continue to bring ticks inside on their fur, and Snowball had
one attached to the edge of her left eye last night, but basically,
the problem is over.

Frontline is applied to the back of the cat's neck and controls ticks
and fleas on the cat for about a month.  Unfortunately it's very
expensive is used as labeled - about $10 per cat per month.  However,
the dog and cat formulas are almost identical, the largest dog size is
only a few dollars more than the cat size and treats about eight cats.
The stuff comes in packs of three in the US.  You can get it for about
half the US price from vet supply web sites in Australia (I buy
several six-packs at a time to treat my twelve cats for about $2.00
per cat per month.  I empty the tube into a small bottle, and meter
and apply the doses with 3 cc syringes (0.5 cc for a normal size cat).
It's still costly for large clowders, but the results are outstanding.
You do have to be able to catch and hold the cat to dose it.

Signature

T.E.D. (tdavis@gearbox.maem.umr.edu)

John Ross Mc Master - 27 May 2006 02:20 GMT
>>Hello, everyone. For reasons too involved to list, I have very limited
>>posting ability to Usenet. I can read as much as I want, however, so
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
>It's still costly for large clowders, but the results are outstanding.
>You do have to be able to catch and hold the cat to dose it.

Do you have a website for the Austrian seller? I'd be glad to get some
cheaply!
Nan - 27 May 2006 13:03 GMT
>Do you have a website for the Austrian seller? I'd be glad to get some
>cheaply!

http://www.petshed.com/ is the one I use.
Purrs and Hugs,

Nan and the furkids

A wise man talks because he has something to say;
a fool talks because he has to say something.
Eva - 31 May 2006 03:14 GMT
we have indoor and outdoor cats, we have been using sevens for some time now
and it has not affected our animals in anyway

> Hello, everyone. For reasons too involved to list, I have very limited
> posting ability to Usenet. I can read as much as I want, however, so
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> included a good email address in the Reply-To: line in the header.
> Thanks in advance for any constructive response.
 
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